rorenapier

Sorry buddy, didnt realise i was over the limit. Cleared now, so PM me whenever. Rory

Water from the expansion tank... Meaning your headgasket is on its way out. Been there done that

Im in the process of selling mine. Dont ask how much as its basically sold anyway. Yeah theres CAD simulated drawings etc, but nothing beats real world testing. Low end stuff is on par if not worse than the stock intake, but midrange and high up there are gains to be had for big turbo setups, Doubt folk running a CT9 would benifit from these. No dyno im afraid, but worked well after finishing it off after i reciebved it from Racetech.

Christ almighty, drums are a peice of cake to work with. Sounds like you need to give up and give it to someone that knows what there doing before you hurt yourself. Less things to go wrong with them over discs.

Your going to have to get the hole saws out buddy. Theres no way of getting into it, without doing it.

Bridge e1 and te1 in the diagnostic plug

BEcause the EMB doesnt have a USB port. It has an older COM port.

10 BTDC @ 750rpm with the car in diagnostics mode.

If you have the EMB software on the laptop, then just head into that. It should read it once you are in. It wont pop up like your phone.

On a stock motor? Would look into having the afr's rechecked, to get them out the 10's, would really want them, between 11 and 11.5 Running in the 10s is silly safe, and shoving petrol out the exhaust!!

Sorry i still dont beleive half of the cars beat in half of these posts, especially anyone under 200hp beating high end dervs. Take a reality check, it just wont happen.

You wont get the same load on a dyno as you do the road, hence the boost isnt the same. Stock motor? What modifications?

You dont need the ICV plugged in for the car to start Are the leads on the right way round? IE: the firing order Dizzy 180 degs out?

Them readings taken at wide open throttle or what?

You should have just taken the dash out! lol Nice hole in the motor though, standard motor or was it built?

Simple things buddy, always out to test you.

Code 14 means there is no signal from the igniter, which can only mean the distributor isnt getting a signal... Change the coil lead for a know working one!!!!

Have you changed the leads yet??

Tried changing the leads and coil lead?

What happend to the teg buddy?

Nice Iddy, you kow what i think of these.

Theres alot of EP's in Aybirdeen....

Im surprised it re-tapped the 1st time, if the thread strips, that means the tapping drill size is over size... It wont retap again, without taking it out to the next size up or helicoiling. If it were me id be looking for a scrap engine and robbing the oil feed housing from it. As Graeme, points out slacken all bolt points, and get it threaded in a few threads and go from there

1.Scratchy 2.Gary (GBRM) 3. _shaun_ 4.ryan-11 5. Rory As long as it doesnt interfear with my sprint callendar im up for it. Dastek is another option.