starlet666

thats 4th gear in mine, and 16psi it gets 28 thrown at it normally from 3rd gear on but it takes way too much to hold the steering wheel and an iphone with 28psi being pushed down its throat lol

serious headwork doesnt change the note on them that much, i had a tomei 2.2 stroker and a head worked about as much as can be done, and mine sounded much like any other sr i had heard.... like a silly damn tractor lol but i had a T04Z strapped to mine too, made it pretty much the most undrivable POS pig to try and drive on the street, was great on boost all the way to the 9k redline, but yer, was the silliest thing i have ever done haha

was an epic event man, spesh when the cyber evo's wing flew off when he was flying down the main straight

a guy in aus did the conversion a few years back, car ran great apparently thread is here http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index....c=5300&st=0

9000 is still 1000 under the full limit and yes it is heavily moddified, have a look in the sidebar, find features, and the auzi starlet one is mine.... specs list is much bigger now too

i would almost bet 100 quid that it is the brake backing touching the brake disk, which can show a sign of wheelbearings needing to be replaced soon also

how do you calculate it after the 180 mark??? cause i have had mine to the limiter in 5th (9000rpm) and i cant figure it out cause my iphone gps is a shit piece

@ Tomtheman2 is this the type of fitment you are after??? looks sexy as dont it

been busy sorry lol you cant really bring super chargers into this same thread, supercharged cars rely on the N/A principles of scavenging and velocity, turbos do not, bigger is always better when it comes to the exhaust of a turbo car.... O/P im not saying not to wrap the whole system, go for it, but im just saying its pointless, and it isnt going to be cheap if its dont properly, with the amount of overlap u will need for the whole system being about 40-50 metres, and the time it takes to wrap it neatly, its pure waste time and money

cause he is an internet troll and a dipshit.... he is the most annoying person to have on a forum due to his stupidity...

5s being a block to stroke a 3s no, they use a 3s block and get a new crank and rods made up, a 3sgte head does fit on the 5sfe block with a little work, and can handle about 15-18psi before u have too much drama (i did it to my old celica) v6 will not physically fit in a starlet engine bay real easy, its bad enough to jam it in a celica, and i almost did it, but wasnt worth the hassle this guy posting these threads should just stop, he is a troll and a waste of time... all of the aussies that are on here will know him well from all the australian forums he is banned from cause he is a ret

if you have a correctly sized exhaust, IE a 3 inch system it will never have enough back pressure to restrict a 1.3 litre anyways, i had a 450hp at the wheels s15 silvia and we did a back to back dyno run, 3 inch titanium system on made 450, system dropped after the dump (which was a 4 inch dump pipe), and it made .2 of a hp difference (was actually under 450hp) which u leave as a variable anyways... all i had was a turbo beenie, heat wrapped and ceramic coated manifold and dump pipe. they were only to keep the heat away from the engine sensors as it was a high mount turbo set up as for veloc

it depends on what sort of driving u do, if its only going to be driven to work and back, dont get EBC pads cause they are shit for a daily, if u track it, but drive it alot on the street, get reds cause they are the best pad i have found as an all round pad (other than the DS2500 ferrodo) and if it is just a track slag, get yellows.... i have bendix heavy duty pads in mine atm, they are dusty as crap and are hopeless on the hills, im going back to the EBC reds as soon as i can get some, as i found them the best pad i have ever used on the road (i have had EBC reds in my S14 and S15 silvia's,

i didnt read all of this because most of it is jibber jabber, wrapping the manifold will help with spool and heat soaking issues, turbos run off the heat mainly,as heat promotes the flow, so the more heat u retain in the system before the turbo the better after the turbo, the only real reason to heatwrap is to keep un wanted heat out, as if u have a proper sized exhaust, it velocity does not matter, as it is going to escape as fast as it can no matter what.. on an N/A example the theory is different, with it being velocity u want, not heat retention and if u are going to do the whole exhaus

completely useless on a hatch, will look stupid, and probably make it have worse aerodynamics than it already has....

im just going to throw this one out there, but how many fuel refineries do u have in the country??? i can tell u for a fact in aus, we have a couple, and all the fuel actually comes from them, in qld, we only have a BP owned refinery, and shell, caltex and bp use the fuel from that refinery to service the qld service stations, the only one that i know imports fuel from elsewhere is mobil....

mine when i make it 3 1/2 inch straight system with no mufflers or cat convertor and a screamer from the external gate might put a fart tin on the back to make it a bit quieter

with your fuel pressure regulator u defs dont need injectors, i have been running between 20 and 26psi on 315cc injectors, and before they were in i had the stock ones, just with high rail pressure.... stock injectors are fine up to about 180hp at the wheels before u start running in2 troubles, and most ct9's wont get those numbers real easy

well i went past 180kmh pretty easy and have gone as far as 7500rpm in 5th.... and as my dials still read in KMH i dunno how fast it was going, but i know my dials are almost spot on cause i have had em tested due to a speeding fine i contested and won

i got one of these running 250+hp atw, i have the top connected only atm, the bottom one is a pressure fed hose only, so anywhere before the throttlebody, and its not really worth hooking up, when u have the valve set correctly (you dont if u get chatter) it may give a small single chatter before the valves opens fully, and wont chatter at all when closed i ran 2 of these on my aristo due to the amount of air i had to release, but the starlet runs fine with a single

sadly it ended up being broken the new owner had some issues with it a week after owning it, and then the guys he took it to advised him that he "needed" a new block and head, because the 12mm head studs werent going to work (obviously they did holding 381WHP which is over 400BHP) and he ended up just selling off allll in bits which is a shame really, now im trying to crack 300, then plan on getting a full stand alone ECU and going for 350 at least.... pretty keen

for sale topic for when it was sold, lists most of the internals and stuff http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index....ic=6326&hl= and the announcement of the 380hp run is here http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index....c=5927&st=0 and here is another thread of how it became 380hp http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2460

and hp listings should be a real figure too, like HP at the wheels, not any of this guesswork crap BHP at the flywheel 381hp at the wheel on 23.5psi on a 4E........ "boosted gt" from AUSC

HOLY CRAP!!!!! thats just yucky LOL

u will find the tank is mainly catching really watery crap, in which case it is doing its job, if it has actual oil and sludge in it, your motor is breathing way too heavy