StarletRick

pinking/detting is when the fuel ignites before the spark plug fires. and high octane fuel will not ignite as easily under compression as it can withstand more heat due to less contaminents. its essential in high perfornace applications, for example if i ran 95 on mine, it would blow up in about 5 minutes. but on lesser modded cars where the egt isnt high, 95 ron is fine.

mild steel can cope with heat better, and wont crack as easily. stainless steel needs to be warmed up and cooled down properly. most SS manis dont last a year before cracking, and japspeed stuff is hardly top of the range to begin with.

all depends if youre pinking or not.

you on about the toyotuning mild steel ones? if so, yes. mild steel > stainless

thats a 2JZ-GTE lump. from a Supra. in a volvo, SO UBE

http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e82479837 i need this in my life.

if you NEED a rebore then get as little as possible, the walls on the 4e are very, very thin. the max you can go is 75mm, and i think thats too much. 74.5mm if you can get away with it. and as si said, standard is 74mm. if you get it bored to 74.5, you get 74.5mm pistons. when ordering pistons they take into consideration the ring clearances.

checked the boost? actuator may not be installed properly.

V power in an NA is pointless. its fine for stock/near stock glanzas aswell. you only need it when you start running higher boost to reduce the chances of pinking.

g-rod? wtf?

undo the bolt under the pump thats on the bracket attached to the block. that will slacken off the belt. then undo the bolt in the head thats holding the pump on like a pivot. lift it out the way and you can get a socket in there easy.

take the PAS pump off, thats WAY faster than taking the rad out. there is 2 bolts holding the pump in. takes minutes to move it. spanner, hammer, job done.

with a good tune on the EBC youll get alot better response from your tubby. i got my spool time down by 700rpm on the td06 by messing about with the controller. they are WELL worth it. even if its just the warning feature (kills the boost if you overboost, very handy if youre not paying attention) for the money, you cant go wrong.

seconded, you do not have to splice anything (except power from somewhere for the controller) just plumb it in, plug in the loom and off you go. take the old one out and throw it far away. all you need to do is block up the second nipple on the actuator at the rear (facing the block). what youre doing effectivly is turning a twin port actuator onto a single port.

if the topmounts on the back have gone, youll get some seriously adverse handling, when my topmounts went, it was like i was driving a car made of jelly. are they stock?

blates.

si, shell does want some pies, its all she goes on about when i see her.

just put some pics in the first post ftw.

This is going nowhere. whats the point? CLOSED

napa? you dirty chav ^^ have a good one

i wonder if he has that large mole on his inside leg like simon does ?

i was basicaly about to type what harry just said. finance is massively gay. if you cant afford the car outright, dont bother with it mate. wait till you can afford it.

ill be handing out free pwns tonight if anyone wants to join in.

ah yes, we shall create the s29a. best timez evar. picking it up next saturday, tis being registered this coming week. win