Socks

The original TRD brochure for 'sporty' and 'sporty' driving parts. How many cars these days could have come with a cage as standard!

EP91 Original Accessories A large selection of optional extras and accessories for all varients of the EP91 in Japan

The TD04-13T (TD04L) turbo is a very popular turbocharger in the Starlet World! The standard CT9 turbocharger is out of puff at 200bhp where as the TD04 turbo is good for a further 50bhp on the stock engine! They are very easy to get hold of as they were fitted to Subaru Impreza Turbos for over 8 years! Being so popular there are a fair few out there that smoke and that means a rebuild is in order! So have a read through this guide, this very simple DIY process should stop any smoking from your exhaust from turbo seal failure! TD04L Rebuild Kit - Avaliable on eBay Hammer Flat Blade Screwdriver Socket Set WD40 Blowtorch Disassembly Remove all the hoses and clamps, including the vaccum lines to the wastegate and compressor housing. Then remove the clamp that goes around the center of the turbochargers core. Its usually a 10mm nut, once removed the clamp can be completely removed. Remove the 17mm banjo bolts for the coolant lines, be careful not to loose the copper washers! Remove the 2x10mm bolts that secure the oil return pipe to the turbochargers core. There may also be some sealant that may hinder the removal. Now for the hard bit! Due to a nice tight fit, plenty of heat cycles, rust and age. The exhaust housing and the core will be nice and seized up most likely! Use plenty of WD40/PlusGas (Penatrating Fluid) to try and loosen the join. Flat blade screw driver and a hammer, Rubber Mallet or even some additional heat from a blowtorch will all help. Once the exhaust housing is free from the core, the compressor housing then needs removing. You will need some snap ring pliers for this and it can be a little fiddley! IMPORTANT The turbocharger will be balanced perfectly and altering this balance will cause accelerated turbo wear. The exhaust and compressor wheels when removed from the shaft will need to be re-fitted in the exact same rotation as they were to ensure the balance is kept correct. Marking the shaft and wheels on the outsides will allow you to get this right on re-assembly. Use an 8mm socket for the compressor wheel nut and a 12mm socket to hold the turbine end. Please note that certain TD04's compressor wheel nuts are reverse threaded so be careful! Remove the compressor wheel, it should slide off the shaft and put it somewhere safe. Remove and bin the large rubber o-ring around the lip of the compressor side end of the core. Push/Tap the shaft and it should come out complete with the exhaust wheel. Be careful not to bend any of the fins upon removal! Using the snap ring pliers remove the visible snap ring on the compressor side of the core. The clip holds the compressor seal in place. Remove the compressor seal from the core, using multiple flat blade screwdrivers or knifes at opposites will allow you to pry it out. The compressor seal has a metal insert, it may have fallen out when you removed the seal. Remove the bronze seal plate. It pops out but may need a little persuasion. Remove the interior o-ring from the compressor side. Remove the small spacer found beneth the bronze seal plate. Remove the compressor side bearing. Re-Seal & Re-Build Lubricate with some oil the new bearing from your rebuild kit and fit it into the compressor side. Place the new bronze seal plate spacer on top of the new bearing, then install the new bronze seal plate. This should click into place and there is only one proper orientation. Fit the replacement o-ring. On the end of the compressor seal insert there is a piston ring type ring. Remove the old one and replace it with the new item from your rebuild kit. Ensure plenty of lube is used and fitting the new one is actually quite easy. Ensure its fully seated before carrying on! Assemble the compressor seal insert and compressor seal. Fit the snap ring back in place that holds the compressor seal in place. Replace the piston ring on the turbo shaft. Very similar to the one on the end of the compressor seal insert. Fitting the new one can be difficult due to a groove just above the ring. Reassemble the turbine side using plenty of lubricant. Slide the bearing onto the shaft and insert the shaft back into the core until it clicks into place, the shaft should spin nice and free inside the core. Slide the compressor wheel back onto the shaft and ensure the markings you made line up again and then tighten the nut. It will take you a few attempts to get it perfect be patient! Tighten the nut until it stops then give it a quarter of a turn to nip it up. Clean both the oil return faces and reassemble the remaining water lines & clamps. Then you should be good to go! This should stop your smoking turbocharger, there may be excess oil left in the exhaust of your car so take the car for a short drive and it should clear up! Remember this is a simple do it yourself guide, if you can afford to I would seriously consider having it done by a professional and purely because it will be properly rebalanced afterwards to ensure it is 100% perfect!

Welcome you power hungry animals! If your wanting 200bhp then look no further I’m going to try my best to talk you through it! This is considered the limit on the standard engine and turbo, further tuning you’ll be looking at a bigger turbocharger! Check Your Health If you’re fat, how would you feel to be asked to run a marathon? Asking your engine to handle nearly double the stock boost pressure without work and additional help is just silly! So there are a few things we need to do to ensure your engine is healthy. If your engine is poorly or has issues, tuning and pushing it will only accelerate the problem and may lead to a failure! Free Power Everyone loves free performance! Air Conditioning The air conditioning system on these cars is very very annoying. Not only do they sap a serious amount of power from your car, turned on or off. But the weight of the system and the rotational drag on the engine also slows you down. With the system fitted it is also a chuffing joke to get to the oil filter! So removing this system has a huge benefit for tuners as the excess space created makes space for intercoolers and filter systems! Weight Reduction Nothing kills acceleration more than weight. The main reason for these cars being so nippy is because they weigh less then 920kg’s! So removing additional weight is free and helps even more. Back seats, Spare Wheel, Jack, Toolkit, your Mates or Girlfriend all slow you down! Boost Restriction The GT Turbo’s aren't affected by this, but the Glanza V’s are so check out the guide below for removing this restriction. Tuning Time! So you've now removed as much weight as possible, moving on to the good bits. The 4E-FTE engine is a very tuneable little lump. It’s actually very easy to get good power gains out of them, there are many different ways to get to the same results. I’ve read lots of information on forums and other websites, talking to lots of tuners and even fellow members. Below I’m going to go through the best way in my opinion. As on any car, putting an aftermarket exhaust system on a car is a great way to allow the engine to get rid of its waste faster and easier. Amplified on turbocharged cars, as they don’t require any kind of back pressure from an exhaust to generate more power. They just need to get rid of the waste as fast as possible. The Starlet Turbo comes with a very small diameter exhaust system that is restrictive at stock boost levels, but will become a real issue at any more boost pressure! The stock item will also be rusty, old, possibly collapsed inside, which will all restrict the engine further! The first part of the exhaust the change is the cat-back system. It connects up to the catalytic converter just under the engines sump pan and goes all the way to the tailpipe at the back of the car. There are plenty of choices of exhausts, anything that’s 2.25” to 2.5” will be plenty big enough for the standard ct9 turbocharger. The second part of the exhaust you should change is the catalytic converter. It bolts directly on to the side of the turbo and connects up to your cat-back exhaust system. The cat is effectively a very fine mesh to filter out harmful exhaust gases from going into the atmosphere. It’s very restrictive and removing it will see a very noticeable gain in performance. A De-Cat Downpipe replaces the entire unit with a straight through pipe. The final part of the exhaust you need to change is the manifold. On the 4E-FTE engine the manifold is a particularly poor design in terms of tuning/flow. The ports on cylinders 2 and especially 3 are very restrictive and can result in engine failure if boost pressure is raised with this restriction in place! An easy and cheap way of removing this restriction is to grind out the restrictions down the ports. This will do the job, but it won’t flow as well as a tubular manifold. An aftermarket tubular manifold will give the exhaust gases a nice clean, smooth and direct route to the turbocharger. Just like the exhaust system, the standard intake system is again, very restrictive. The standard route comes off the hot turbo, up and straight over the red hot exhaust manifold, down the side of the hot engine and to a sealed air box at the back of the engine bay! Not an ideal route for performance! Relocating the air filter to in front of the radiator is an excellent place to allow fresh air to get into your turbocharger! This will require removal of your air conditioning system however! We have a guide on how to relocate your air filter in our wiki section for less than £30! Coming Soon To stop debris going into the turbocharger, another option is to simply use mesh as a filtration system. This is a very cheap and probably the least restrictive way for an intake setup. There is also a guide in our wiki section on how to do this! http://www.ukstarletowners.com/page/articles.html/_/engineandtuning/turbo-mesh-r17 When the air has been compressed by the turbocharger, the air is very hot and passes through the tiny top mounted intercooler core before going into the engine. The standard top mounted intercooler does a very good job at the standard boost pressure, but again when we are planning on raising the boost pressure level and tuning the car it soon becomes a limiting factor. A front mounted intercooler is the best way to fix this issue. Relocates the intercooler system to the front of the car where the cold air is. The colder the charge temperatures of the air going into the engine, the much denser the air will be (more oxygen). The more oxygen the bigger bang you’ll get inside the cylinders and therefore resulting in more power. Now we have freed off the flow of air and gasses in and out of our engine, we need to ensure the Ignition & Fuel system is up to the job! The stock fuel pump can flow enough fuel to reach more power, however being as old as these cars are, means they are getting on a bit! A direct fitment Walbro 255lph uprated fuel pump kit is a very wise investment. They will provide a stable fuel flow for over 350bhp on these cars, so for the stock engine and turbo its more than enough. The stock ignition system will also most likely be just as old as the pump. The HT Leads are terrible and very small. The King Leads are usually the main culprit for these cars just starting to randomly misfire one day. Changing them is another very wise move. Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm are also worth replacing if they are showing signs of wear. There not expensive and worth it to ensure you get a perfect spark inside your engine. The final part that I’d recommend is a vented oil catch can. The standard breather port vents into the intake system, which can sometimes lead to a build up of oil in the pipework when the boost pressure is raised. Run a line from the breather port on the rocker cover to a tank somewhere in the engine bay. This is preferred over a breather filter fitted directly onto the port on the engine. They can spit oil vapour out making an oily mess in your engine bay, especially at 1bar of boost! At this point your car should be ready to handle the additional boost pressure, your nearly there! To allow you to adjust your boost pressure you’re going to need to fit an adjustable turbo actuator. The turbo actuator is what controls when the wastegate port opens and closes to bleed off excess exhaust gas. This allows fine adjustment of how much boost pressure is built in the system. The stock actuator has a very soft spring inside and is not adjustable in any way. Adjusting the length of the threaded rod to change the boost pressure, lengthen the rod to lower the boost pressure, shorten the rod to raise the boost pressure. This can also be adjusted by a Manual or Electronic Boost Controller. However a stronger adjustable actuator is always a wise investment to keep the boost pressure stable. You can use a controller with an uprated actuator! The standard ECU on the Starlet Turbo’s have a Fuel Cut Defend system built in. This will kick in if the ECU recognizes the boost pressure going higher than 0.85Bar by cutting fuel. It’s a very violent jerk that will come as quite a shock if you’re not expecting it. When setting boost pressure remember that you will always build more boost in higher gears at higher speeds. So set your boost perfect in 4th or 5th gear at a decent speed. If you don’t hit fuel cut then, then you won’t in low gears at slower speeds. Fuel Cut Defenders are devices which allow you to go beyond the factory fuel cut limiter by raising that limit. At this point you’re where your engine can be destroyed in minutes if you’re not VERY careful. Without excess fuel pressure and an aftermarket ECU to control your system, it’s only going to end in tears. Aftermarket ECU’s have raise the fuel cut limiter so a fuel cut defender is something I would suggest avoiding! There are three major tried and test ways for tuning these cars with aftermarket ECU’s. Each type have their own features and pro’s and con’s which are listed below. JDM Plug & Play Aftermarket ECU’s These ECU’s are basically a stock ECU that has been opened up and fitted with additional circuit boards to allow control over certain parameters inside the ECU. There provided by some of the major JDM tuners such as Blitz, JAM, MINEs, ZEP, TOMs and SARD. They all tend to have the same feature lists: Removed or Raised Fuel Cut Limiters Removed 112mph Speed Limiters Increased Rev Limiters (Varies 8000-8300rpm) More Aggressive Tuned Map There also great as they allow you to run 1-1.2bar of boost pressure without the need to visit a rolling road or get your car remapped. To fit you simple unplug the stock ecu and reconnect the new one. Simple! However there is a downside, because they aren’t mapped specifically for your own car and its setup. It doesn’t guarantee to be 100% perfect, they may run rich in some places in the rev range or lean in others. Usually its small amounts, but its worth getting your fueling check at a local tuners to be safe! There not available new anymore and tend to be priced second hand between £400-£550. Tuneable Piggyback ECU’s By far the most popular way of tuning these cars here in the UK at the moment. G-Reddy’s range of E-Manage ECUs are readily available and offer much more adjustability then a Plug & Play ECU. These ECU’s piggyback the stock ECU and override certain parameters needed to tune the car for more boost pressure. Plug & Play Wiring Harness’s do exist for these ECU’s but are rare, the majority come with a bare harness that will require wiring into the stock wiring loom in your car. Once wired in they also then require mapping on a rolling road by a professional tuner. They do all the same things the Plug & Play ECU’s do but the map will be custom made to work perfectly with your car and its modifications. These are still available new, but tend to fetch between £140-£240 second hand. The ECU will need to be wired in by a professional and then a Mapping Session by a tuner which will cost between £250-300. The majority of tuners here in the UK offer packages to supply, fit and tune an E-Manage to your car for between £500-£550. Tuneable Standalone ECU’s The final way is by far the best way of tuning these cars. A full standalone ECU gets rid of any factory ECU and all its parameters meaning you have full control over every element of the engines tune. This is usually considered overkill for the stock engine and turbo and the gains would be minimal at this level of power. However if you’re looking to go for a bigger turbo or engine work further down the line this would be a wise purchase. The majority of the standalone systems on the market for these cars are not plug and play and require wiring in with the exception of the Apexi PowerFC. These systems tend to start at the £800 mark and go up into the sky! So.... That’s it, if you've followed this guide you car should be producing between 190-210bhp depending on the health of your engine and turbocharger. It won’t take long for you to get used to this kind of power however and the search for more power will soon hit you. The next step will be a turbo upgrade on the stock engine. Another guide will be available soon on how to do this! The spec of my car back when I was on the stock engine & turbo: Blitz Access ECU Zisco Ram Horn Manifold Blitz Decat Fujitsubo Power Getter Exhaust System Toy Tuning Air Filter Relocation Kit HDI Front Mount Intercooler HKS Actuator @ 1.1bar Walbro Fuel Pump Kit Magnacore HT Leads Irdium Spark Plugs 202.6bhp & 173.4lb-ft

There are many people who arent completely in-the-know on how to post pictures on the website. Hopefully the following will help you to realise how easy this really is! There are many different ways to do this, Im going to show you the easiest way using a website called Photobucket... First off, go to the Photobucket website and create an account/log in... Once your account is created or you've logged in... Select Upload Image.... Select Browse Files, this will allow you to navigate on your laptop/computer and select the images you want to share... Once you've selected the image/images you want to share, click upload.... A few seconds later, your image will appear in your photobucket album, on the right hand side you will see a varity of image links. The IMG code is the one you need to use on ukso and the majority of other websites/forums. Copy (Right Click, Copy, to Copy the IMG code) and right click in the forum editor and select Paste, to post the photo IMG code into the forum.... You can Select Preview next to the Post button, to see if your image is displayed correctly... Ta-daaaa. Simple as That! There are MANY different companies that offer free image hosting online. Photobucket also offer an App avaliable on Android and iOS for use with smartphones. The technique is still the same! Share your Photos in Build Progress Threads and Picture of the Month. Remember For Sale Threads, require images of the item to allow the moderators to approve your threads! Happy Sharing!

Few rare photos taken at ZEP in Japan!

A few rare photos of the legendary JAM-Racing Workshop.

Got this sorted! The forum is very easy to use straight from your iOS device! Now featuring a fresh new icon too! Check it out below, follow on down how to get us on your iOS device! Making accessing UKSO even easier then before! Visit our website at www.ukstarletowners.com, the default phone view looks like this: Very Fast to Load & Saves your Data Allowance! (Full Size Version can be selected at the bottom) Hit the bookmark/share button in the middle at the bottom on an iPhone. Our Icon will then appear in the middle, Select 'Add To Home Screen' Call it what you want.... Tap 'Add' and jobs a good'un! Enjoy Folks

Big Thanks to Si, for getting these sorted for us. To help share the spec of your car at shows to others! Download below, fill it out and print it off! Simple! (Right Click - Save Target As) Click To Download Preview:

UKSO & TGTT Joined Forces to show respect for the late Dave Burwash. It was given a brief mention in Banzai Magazine!

Nippon was lucky enough to get a 3 page feature in Fast Car Magazine in 2012!

TM-Developments got there EP82 GT Turbo Race Car that was used in the Toyota Sprint Series in 2011!

Idrees got his car featured in Banzai Magazine in 2012! here are the scans folks!

Many people don't realise how many factory colour choices were avaliable on the Toyota Starlet! Especially on the early MK1 GT Turbos! Have a look below at the amount of choice you had as a new buyer in Japan! Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Mk1 1989-1992 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 185 Colour Name: Bluish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3H4 Colour Name: Red Mica Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 6L2 Colour Name: Blackish Green Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 8H1 Colour Name: Grayish Blue Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 040/4L5 Colour Name: Super White II & Beige Metallic Rarity: The Rarest, Not Even Photographed... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3H4/4L5 Colour Name: Red Mica Metallic & Beige Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 6L2/4L5 Colour Name: Blackish Green & Beige Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Mk2 1992-1994 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 182 Colour Name: Bluish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: The Most Common Colour on the Mk2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 6M6 Colour Name: Green Metallic Rarity: The Rarest Colour on the Mk2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205/182 Colour Name: Black Metallic & Bluish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare, Only available on the 'GT Limited' (Limited Edition) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Mk3 1994-1995 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 199 Colour Name: Silver Metallic Rarity: Rare, Only available on the Mk3 GT! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: Very Common, Most Mk3 GTs are this colour! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 746 Colour Name: Turquoise Metallic Rarity: Rarest Colour on the Mk3 GT! (Believed to be 3 in UK as of 07/11/12) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205/182 Colour Name: Black Metallic & Blueish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare, Only available on the 'GT Advance' (Limited Edition) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet Glanza Pre-Facelift 1996-1997 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3E5 Colour Name: Super Red II Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 1A0 Colour Name: Bluish Silver Rarity: Most common colour ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 8K9 Colour Name: Purplish Blue Rarity: Rarest colour! So Rare, Toyota didn't bother offering it on the facelift Glanza! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet Glanza Facelift 1998-1999 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Most common colour ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3E5 Colour Name: Super Red II Rarity: Rarest colour on the facelift Glanza! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 1A0 Colour Name: Bluish Silver Rarity: Rare on a Facelift Model!

Right been looking round and what people have some and most people use a sieve mesh but I found an alternative that gives you a few spares. What you will need. A cheap frying pan splatter gaurd A Stanley knife or similar A small tin of Hammerite A marker pen A pair of scissors A suitable size jubilee clip An adult for supervising the the cutty out bits Step 1: Remove the splatter guard from the packaging. Step 2: take the Stanley knife and run around the outer ring of the splatter guard so that your just left with the mesh. Step 3: work out how big you need the mesh I worked out that for my TD04 it needed to be the size of a small tin of Hammerite, i worked this out by measuring the diameter of the inlet then allowing a little either side (1cm) for clamping. Then using the marker pen draw around the tin. Step 4: Cut around your outline with a pair of scissors. Step 5: Trial for it for size I was lucky I had a spare turbo housing but if not try it for size as if you've made it to small you still have more mesh to make it bigger. If all is good continue to the final step if not repeat from step 3. Step 6: If all is good fit it to the car tighten up the jubilee clip and happy boosting. Writing & Images by Rob Bower

Very easy way to turn your foglights yellow just like our friends over in Japan! What you will need... A4 Sheet of Yellow Tint Film Clean Cloth and Water Heatgun/Hair Dryer Sharp Blade Use your rag, wet it and clean the front AND sides of the fog lights, basically anywhere the vinyl will touch, once done dry them off with clean towel. Cut the A4 sheet in half so each peace is big enough to cover your foglight with extra overlap then peel your film and place carefully on the foglight. From the middle of the light outwards, push all bubbles the out and make sure the vinyl is down all over the surface of the fog light, Once you get to the edge of the light get your heat gun or hair dryer out and heat the edged and pull the vinyl tight so it sits nice on all the curves and edges. Once this is done press it all down round all edges with your thumb just for safe measures. Get your sharp blade and cut round the back of the fog lens leaving a little bit of extra vinyl 1-2mm to tuck round the lens. Once you have done this get out your heat gun / hair dryer and heat up the vinyl till it tucks itself round the back of the lense and push in with your thumb for safe measures. All Done! Vinyl can be purchased from a Trader on UKSO called Stick-2-It.

1997 EP91 Reflet Based on the EP91 chassis, the reflet was a kitted our version of the base model, it also featured 4wd variants... Which are indeed featured i nthe brochure!

1989 EP82 Toyota Starlet GT Limited The GT Limited was one of two Limited Edition Versions of the EP82 Starlet GT Turbo. GT Limited being the first, based upon the Mk1.

A Guide to show the benefits of fitting a Front Mounted Intercooler Kit to your Starlet Turbo, along with information on why it's a good idea and which is the best kit to buy! I've tried to get hold of the best pictures I can to give you a visual idea too which I feel is important. Small thanks to Ro55fumi for some photos I stole and edited, rest were mine! Why? So what are the advantages and disadvantages of doing this change and going to a front mounted intercooler setup. There are more benefits to be honest and you will always hear different opinions but here are the main ones: Which is the Best Kit to Buy? There are many kits out there but the majority of them are all copies of kits that already existed on the market! Essentially there are 2 main types of front mounted intercooler kits. The only major difference between the 2, one being the pipe route pre-core and the other being the physical intercooler core itself. Below is a small table with the features of both kits: How do I Fit a FMIC Kit? Get all your components laid out and ensure you have everything, in these pictures I will be fitting a HDI Kit to my EP91 Glanza V. 1, Turbo To Pipe 2 2, Pipe 2 to Intercooler Core 3, Intercooler Core to Pipe 4 3, Pipe 4 to Pipe 5 4, Pipe 5 joins onto Throttle Body Fix your intercoolers core firmly in place. The pipework and joiners will allow a small amount of flex but the intercooler core must stay firmly in place! This is to help pipes becoming loose and you ending up with a boost leak! Try to get it slap bang in the middle too if you can! The mounts that come with these kits are usually thin straight pieces of metal that you have to bend at the right places to mount your intercooler core. I fabricated my own as you can see from the image. No matter how you mount your core, cable ties are quite good for holding the core in place (hanging) while you adjust, bending or fabricating mounts. Mock fit your pipework with the joiners but don't tighten up your jubilee clamps just yet. Make sure all the pipework is clearing all the major components and wont rub or rattle on anything. The pipework can get quite close to the towing hooks, washer bottle, battery tray and bottom water hose. This could cause a failure overtime! Once your happy everything has sufficient clearance use the clamps to secure the pipework in place. Its then wise to go for a quick test drive, this is actually illegal (to drive without a bumper) so make it short. You just want to be testing there are no boost leaks (which would be easy to spot on a boost gauge, or even hear). Also make sure nothing has moved or started to come loose and is still secure. The final part is to trim bodywork/wheel arch's to clear the new intercooler core and pipework. Remember this is the bit everyone will see so take your time, it took me about 20-25 attempts, trimming a bit off the bumper, test fitting and repeating until it fitted perfectly. If you do a neat job it will look stunning. The Varis Aftermarket Bumpers are designed to suit the HDI Style Intercooler Cores perfectly, so this is also a brilliant upgrade! So there we have it, that's how we fit a Front Mounted Intercooler setup to a Toyota Starlet! Generally to reach 200bhp on the stock engine and turbo you will need one of these kits. The more boost and bigger the turbo the more power you will get from fitting one of these kits too! Enjoy!