WallaceGlanza

If you have a big enough vice you can use it like a press - or if you have a press then it's even easier!

Go to larkspeed if you don't want to get ripped off, they have all the powerflex bushes.

Emanage blue has an fcd built in, if it was supposedly mapped then the guy doing it should've taken to more than 0.5bar (assuming you do have all the supporting mods ie derestricted exhaust manifold, uprated intercooler etc). Did you take it somewhere reputable?

Didn't know toyota made dildo's!

Dayum.

I would assume they do the same - if not the first time the thermostat opens there would be a big pressure drop before the oil fills the cooler - which wouldn't be good.

One thing I would say is don't get one unless you really need it - my oil temp is too low under normal conditions with the cooler fitted and it does have a thermostat too, but the mocal thermostat in the sandwich plate is always slightly open which is enough to over cool the oil - I've now duct taped up half the cooler!

Yeah the brass/gold pieces together with the snap rings/circlips are definately for the gearbox selctors to replace the rubber ones. Not sure on the other 6 shims though, however I definately used all the bits when I fitted my TC kit. There is a guide on here somewhere I think, but may have been in the TC trading section which is obviously gone.

The reflets look good... but I would say that! ;) I wish I had a nice angled exhaust though.

I know the "nothing is simple" feeling all too well - you'll get there, just not down a straight road! Let us know how you get on with the rear beam bushes too as they're on my list to do. ;)

I've fitted my catch can for the moment just between the rocker cover and inlet manifold but will be connecting it into the air intake too, so for now it looks like this (with one port blocked off) : One thing to note is that you do need a pcv valve in the system for this setup, a simple one way/check valve will not work. The PCV valve varies the amount it opens according to the vaccuum on it so on idle when the vaccuum is highest the valve is only slightly open then as the vaccuum decreases it opens more. A normal check valve will simply open fully at idle and effectively cause a vaccuum leak. I've also fitted a mesh strainer inside to make the can more efficient at catching oil/ seperating the oil from the vapours as an empty can won't be completely effective at this.

From inside the car unscrew the thee bulb holders then it just pulls off. Very simple.

I don't think they ever did, just drop them an email I'm sure they'll still do them.

A catch can with a breather on it will mean it can't hold vaccuum so won't pull through the blow by as effictively - a sealed system is better (IMO).

You just need to bung up the hole, the noise is actually the air passing back over the turbo compressor wheel since it's the only way the air can go with no dump valve there. You can also get the same noise with an adjustable dump valve by having it set nice and tight then you can get a "Chirup" at low boost and "psshhh" on high boost - or a combination of the two.

The chirp in wrc cars is actually because they run no dump valve at all, so just take it off - even cheaper than changing it! Welcome to the site.

Sounds a bit suspect but as said above it's very hard to prove anything.

The spacers really don't need to be complicated for instance these don't look great but they would do the job: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/wheel-spacers-4x...=item3a6918b36a Then just get some new studs to suit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Wheel-Stu...=item564240ddad The studs just knock out with a hammer then either use an air gun or battery impact gun to pull the new studs through using an old nut and some washers on the studs. It's maybe a bit more work but for less than 50 quid you'll have 4 spacers. This is basically what I did except I got the spacers machined for me so the centre bore is correct but even that doesn't really matter.

Indeed.... http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....23&hl=catch can&st=0

So you did supply a fuel regulator to fit and setup? -Does he have anything to check the fuelling so he can set it up? Fitting is the easy bit and the least important, if he's taken it for a spin and boosted it high without setting up the fuelling it could easily have run lean and done the damage.

What exactly was being fitted and how was sos setting it up? ie Adjusting fuelling to suit the td04?

It really depends on the thickness of the spacers you want, if over about 5mm you either need extended studs in place of the standard ones or spacers which have studs set into them. In the case of the spacers with studs set into them these will need to be hubcentric if they bolt to the standard studs using normal nuts - if they use tapered nuts and tapered seats then they will centre like the wheels do so don't need to be hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels/ spacers are for older cars with flat bottom nuts on non tapered seats in the wheels which won't centre them, spigot rings in alloys are also pointless if the wheel nuts are tapered. The cheapest option is to fit longer wheel studs - which isn't a hard job with the right tools, then fit any old spacers with the right stud pattern which are readily available or you could even get a mchine shop to make them, the spacers with studs already fitted from the likes of H&R are bloody expensive.

Have you got an fpr or anything else to go with the FCD?

Check here for inspiration: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....2&hl=gauges I prefer the pillar mount for neatness.

There is no standard oil temp sensor - just pressure, it wouldn't work with an aftermarket gauge either.