WallaceGlanza

Nice, I fancy the same sort of thing for a bit of sideways action. Get a straight through exhaust too so you can hear the straight six better.

You can ignore the lights - that is effectively a gauge but with no numbers/scale! Yeah just look at how high the boost gauge gets, normally it will be highest/give the best reading in 4th gear around 4500rpm ie motorway speeds.

Standard boost is 0.4bar low 0.6bar hi, 0.8bar is still safe any higher than that and it will hit fuel cut - a factory safety setting of the standard ecu. You'll know if you hit that as the engine management light will come on and the car will feel like its hit a wall! You also appear to have a boost controller fitted (on the side of the centre console) so the standard hi/lo boost control may not actually be working any more. SO if you need to turn the boost down you can as well. Power wise running 0.8bar with an exhaust and front mount intercooler will be around 150bhp.

Compression ratio and the measured cylinder compression are directly related so yes a thicker headgasket would lower both, there just isn't a way of working out one from the other. If you increase the volume of the cylinder then you will reduce the pressure: P=F/A

It is fairly low, 160-180 is around the standard compression. Cams and headgasket may have lowered it?

By the looks of what's under the bonnet it's a load of crap! It's a nice base theough looks clean from the outside, it also looks like there were more mods on it previously - the intake pipe with the "16 valve efi " on it has been re-fitted as the glanza's didn't have any writing on them as standard and also the cambelt cover is not original - it's from the non turbo engine (4efe). Good luck with it I'm sure you'll enjoy it once you get used to the boost.

So many people do the same thing of wanting to chuck a TD04 on straight away before actually making sure the rest of the car is upto it, all those things are simple fixes but not if your blowing all your money on mods...

I had cusco's (then bc's) and now have meisters, the meisters are far better for back road use. If you want the car to handle properly it needs to be at a sensible ride height though.

Thanks for the nice comments guys. Time for a small update; My rocker cover had become a bit sorry looking after being painted a couple of years ago with paint which wasn't heat resistant: So since it was in such bad condition and that you can now see it through the bonnet (well on the rare days that it's not running and the rain guard comes out!) I decided to re-paint it, this time with some proper heat resistant paint. It looks basically the same as the old one did although the paint didn't give as nice a coating: Fitted: You may also notive I replaced the pcv valve - I was going to gut it but it snapped off when trying to remove it so I had a new fitting welded on, this was to allow me to fit my catch can. After the long discussions regarding this on here I knew exactly how I was going to fit it, I also wanted to do a bit of work on the catch can itself to make it more efficient. Most catch cans have nothing inside them which doesn't really help in removing oil particles from the vapour, the idea of fitting wire mesh inside the cans does help but simply having it dumped in the bottom isn't great. Firstly the vapours aren't necessarily going to flow through it and it's a pain to clean, so I came up with a nice simple idea to get around this. Take a tea bag strainer (yes really) and put the mesh (a stainless scouring pad!) inside: Then place this in the top of the catch can with a third port/nozzle fitted below, I also put a rolled up piece of rubber in the can to sit the strainer on and which will also help seal around the strainer: The third port is the inlet to the can, meaning that all the vapour has to pass through the mesh and will help the oil droplets condense and collect in the bottom of the can. It's a nice simple idea which should be more effective and easier to clean out. I'll be setting up the catch can as per this diagram: (all credit to enzo_e492901 for working that one out) however for now I've not got it tee'd into the turbo inlet so the third port on the catch is just blocked off. This set up requires the use of check valves like this; Fitted in line to act as the pcv valve before the can (to stop it and the head being pressurised under boost) and the others when fitted will allow the whole breather system to act as the standard one does both on vacuum and boost but hopefully providing a cleaner inlet charge. So all fitted it looks like this: Still not the tidiest bay but it's better. Unfortunately the catch wouldn't seal properly due to there being no gasket where the lid bolts on so I've had just block off the inlet for now, I will seal the can with sump sealer then see how it actually works. Also once I fit the new turbo inlet complete with tee I'll get rid of the open filter on the rocker cover - at least then the rocker cover may stay cleaner this time!

Take the cable off by removing the R clip, then unbolt the linkage with the cube and simply pull the cube off and turn it.

If traders are going to offer these at some stage will any of them actually load test them and NDT (Non destructive test ie properly inspect any welds) each individual one? As these will be safety critical components. If one broke in a crash then it's your life at risk so I wouldn't be wanting to buy an item like this that's just knocked up in a shed with no thought put into the design or testing.

Don't jump the gun mate, let monster take a look if their close by and see what they say first.

I must be getting too old as well! That looks like a scene from 90's Max Power cruise.

You would ideally remap it again to suit the new boost charateristics, otherwise if the boost is coming in much earlier you may end up lean at that point. The map may be fine though, I would check it on a rolling road first before going for a remap.

It's a stack style dash display.... http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Performance/...sh_Displays/811

Bit late now but it's also missing the bracket to attach it to the turbo so not much use without that.

Sounds like your alternator isn't charging the battery.

A bodged hole type, the bit that's screwed to the end is not the part that normally comes with the kit - hence why it looks dodgy!

No. You get a pin type and hole type but the ends can be swapped, glanza's are hole type.... I think! But yes all should be adjustable.

Water temp, stock gauge is useless. Also yes you'll still need a sandwich plate.

"mygarage" - the glasgow one is who makes them so should be the cheapest!

I do like my indiglo dials - they also just started working again!

70 off boost upto 75 with a little boost on the dualler, it sat nicely at 85c over that hot weekend when driven "properly" but it needs boost to get upto that temp.

Thanks guys, I'm loving the way the bonnet looks and it's nice and functional - I had the rain guard out the other weekend and after a good run the heat was pouring out the vent. The oil cooler however is over-cooling the oil, even with a thermostat, so more duct tape over the core is required! Regarding the wings I actaully don't want the cruise ones, I prefer the "mc chu" style ones as modelled by Joz above, those and a slightly wider stance should go nicely with the bonnet.