WallaceGlanza

Have you got an fpr or anything else to go with the FCD?

Check here for inspiration: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....2&hl=gauges I prefer the pillar mount for neatness.

There is no standard oil temp sensor - just pressure, it wouldn't work with an aftermarket gauge either.

Nice, I fancy the same sort of thing for a bit of sideways action. Get a straight through exhaust too so you can hear the straight six better.

You can ignore the lights - that is effectively a gauge but with no numbers/scale! Yeah just look at how high the boost gauge gets, normally it will be highest/give the best reading in 4th gear around 4500rpm ie motorway speeds.

Standard boost is 0.4bar low 0.6bar hi, 0.8bar is still safe any higher than that and it will hit fuel cut - a factory safety setting of the standard ecu. You'll know if you hit that as the engine management light will come on and the car will feel like its hit a wall! You also appear to have a boost controller fitted (on the side of the centre console) so the standard hi/lo boost control may not actually be working any more. SO if you need to turn the boost down you can as well. Power wise running 0.8bar with an exhaust and front mount intercooler will be around 150bhp.

Compression ratio and the measured cylinder compression are directly related so yes a thicker headgasket would lower both, there just isn't a way of working out one from the other. If you increase the volume of the cylinder then you will reduce the pressure: P=F/A

It is fairly low, 160-180 is around the standard compression. Cams and headgasket may have lowered it?

By the looks of what's under the bonnet it's a load of crap! It's a nice base theough looks clean from the outside, it also looks like there were more mods on it previously - the intake pipe with the "16 valve efi " on it has been re-fitted as the glanza's didn't have any writing on them as standard and also the cambelt cover is not original - it's from the non turbo engine (4efe). Good luck with it I'm sure you'll enjoy it once you get used to the boost.

So many people do the same thing of wanting to chuck a TD04 on straight away before actually making sure the rest of the car is upto it, all those things are simple fixes but not if your blowing all your money on mods...

I had cusco's (then bc's) and now have meisters, the meisters are far better for back road use. If you want the car to handle properly it needs to be at a sensible ride height though.

Thanks for the nice comments guys. Time for a small update; My rocker cover had become a bit sorry looking after being painted a couple of years ago with paint which wasn't heat resistant: So since it was in such bad condition and that you can now see it through the bonnet (well on the rare days that it's not running and the rain guard comes out!) I decided to re-paint it, this time with some proper heat resistant paint. It looks basically the same as the old one did although the paint didn't give as nice a coating: Fitted: You may also notive I replaced the pcv valve - I w

Take the cable off by removing the R clip, then unbolt the linkage with the cube and simply pull the cube off and turn it.

If traders are going to offer these at some stage will any of them actually load test them and NDT (Non destructive test ie properly inspect any welds) each individual one? As these will be safety critical components. If one broke in a crash then it's your life at risk so I wouldn't be wanting to buy an item like this that's just knocked up in a shed with no thought put into the design or testing.

Don't jump the gun mate, let monster take a look if their close by and see what they say first.

I must be getting too old as well! That looks like a scene from 90's Max Power cruise.

You would ideally remap it again to suit the new boost charateristics, otherwise if the boost is coming in much earlier you may end up lean at that point. The map may be fine though, I would check it on a rolling road first before going for a remap.

It's a stack style dash display.... http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Performance/...sh_Displays/811

Bit late now but it's also missing the bracket to attach it to the turbo so not much use without that.

Sounds like your alternator isn't charging the battery.

A bodged hole type, the bit that's screwed to the end is not the part that normally comes with the kit - hence why it looks dodgy!

No. You get a pin type and hole type but the ends can be swapped, glanza's are hole type.... I think! But yes all should be adjustable.

Water temp, stock gauge is useless. Also yes you'll still need a sandwich plate.

"mygarage" - the glasgow one is who makes them so should be the cheapest!