WallaceGlanza

15x 6.5J is just the diameter and width, you need to know the PCD and offset, PCD is the most important so the wheels actually fit on the studs!

That doesn't include shipping - which is a lot! EDIT: I just logged in and checked the shipping - the total comes to £601.65, not so cheap now!

It'll be out by christmas, I have faith! Here's some new screenshots just to show how awesome it will be.... :harhar:

Welcome to the site.:harhar: A compression test would be the first thing I would do to give you an idea of the engine condition.

Some great photos there and an even better turn out, looked like a really good meet, maybe on year I'll make it! :harhar:

Take a look here: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....d=shop&id=1 ...and here: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=229

It's actually a Kakimoto N1 ;) the R is the normal big straight exit one, it is indeed rare though. Looks like a nice base to do some mods on.

It is a minimal chance that a bit would come off and blockanything but when there's that chance it's something I wouldn't risk. If it is at the turbo where it's leaking then a new gasket should sort it.

Yes it could kill the turbo. Have you got any copper washers on there?

That's my favourite photo too and I also love the wheels. Cheers mate, don't have the number to hand but I think it's in the "nifty pictures and part numbers" section. Thanks for all the comments guys, nice to see it appreciated.

Turtlewax car shampoo (nothing special) then clay bar with a bilt hamber clay and polished with auto glym super resin polish. Very easy (I just told the girlfriend to do them ), they were easy though, just placed over the original fabric and folded round the back then stapled on. It's just some suede like material I got from an online fabric place, matchs the recaro's quite nicely. Thanks for the rest of the comments.

I gave the glanza a good clean this weekend (clay bar'd and polished - although in the photos only the rear is done) and whilst the girlfriend was tinkering with her mini I grabbed her Nikon and took some photos.... Comments welcome

Yup Well grinding away a bit of the power steering pump is just as annoying if not more than just removing the downpipe.

This is the one from demon tweeks I posted on another thread: It's a much easier fit however you may still need to remove your downpipe and maybe turbo to be able to fit it and if you're wanting an oil temp gauge too you'll need somewhere else to put it.

All the standard colours and codes can be found with a search..... http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6827 The colour above is purplish blue 8K9 (we need to update the photos in that thread). Gaz's ep I think is painted subaru blue, it certainly isn't a toyota colour.

I think it is the 1/8bsp you want for the engine thread and hence standard oil temp switch, however I have 1/8npt on mine and it does fit but becuase the engine thread isn't tapered it doesnt fully engage but doesn't leak either.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/G...Piece/1773/1861 Only thing is you'll need to block off one outlet and it advises that it's not the best for oil temp senders, I use one of them for the oil pressure though. Or one of these.... http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/G...ptors/1773/1847 But use a 1/8npt for the male as bsp and npt in that size is basically the same thread.

Have you tried demon tweeks?

That won't last long.

It'll be fine, you'll only find out whether it creeps after fitting it, there's no definite answer but yeah get em on! ;)

If you show us the one you bought we can actually see what it is!;) If it does crack it won't cause any problems other than a loss of power and a horrible noise, unless you're really unluky and a chunk falls off and kills the turbo. Finally yes a mani and decat will be fine at 0.7 bar, you only need to worry about the fuelling above 0.8bar

Cheers Phil, BC's are sold and gone already. I am a bit fussy about most things but I think I'm finally happy with the suspension now. Definately a good choice. Tbh there's nothing that could've been changed on the bc's to get them like the Meister's are now, it's down to the fundamental damping characteristics - the bc's just have harder shocks. The spring preload was at zero as the meisters are now and changing anything else with regards to the alignment may make it handle differently but it wouldn't change the way the car handles bumps. The damping really is completely different on the meisters comparedto the bc's, same as the bc's compared to cusco's. They all have nearly identical spring rates but the damping is completely different. I had it set up at target tyres in perth, the guy there knows what he's doing as he does the alignment for all the cars that go to awd motorsports (I've heard that Kenny Brown is very good though but perth was more convenient). It's not quite as thorough a set up as doing corner weighting but thats a long and expensive procedure and really wouldn't make much difference on a road car.

The damping is a lot diferent from the bc's to the meister's, even set harder than the bc's the meister's are much more compliant and actually absorb bumps but still give good roll resistance and body control. The bc's were good but not as good as the meister's, for the use I want them anyway.

It will be Jay (jaystar77) that posted it, I remember it too from the brochure.