klyfax

Pic then!!! I what to see!!!

Front bars match on N/A and Turbo models, on EP71, EP82 and EP91. But the back bar from the glanza doesn't fit to a N/A car! I have tryed! The Glanza Chassie is higher at the back... Good luck!

Nice colour. But I really don't like a EP91 thats neary standard! But some lower springs will do it...

Its a very nice car, but the steering wheel is at the wrong site! When will you guys learn to follow the rest of the world?????? Steering wheel to the left and KM/H on the panel!!!!! Pedels may be moved to the left too, if you find it hard to drive elseway Whats the data of it? HP, weight and so on???

And they lower with 40mm and do not settle lower?

Wrong! The manifold was maked to 1996. And its on 1996 starlet.

I mean, you buy them and they lower your car 40mm and a year after your car is lowered by 75mm. Thats what I call lower in time. If they settle lower, who much lower is that? Plus 5mm or?

Damn it look good! I think I have to import one to a winter car! Or build one by my self!

Will those lower in time?

Who makes springs and shocks, for a EP91?? I have found that KONI makes the stock and thinks I put them under the car. But who makes some springs that will lower it with 40mm and are much harder then standard?

Seen from the manufacturer side, yes. But seen from a tuners side, is to get so much as possible air in the engine at one stroke. Only if you run on low octane gas... Thats correct. It does not change the compresion ratio. The only way to change the compresion ratio is to change your bore or stroke. And if your pistons is on a down stroke then the spark comes, your power is gone. When you adjust your timing you set it to e.g. 10 degrees before top. Thats because the ignition takes some time to work. Then the ignition will be at full strength at 5 degrees after top = full power!. And you won't risk a premature detonation, your pistons will just fry because they won't get the cooling they demand. Hopes it helps...

Who is taking about increaing the pressure? I'm taking about mounting a turbo on a 4E-FE and get it to hold like a 4E-FTE. But yes your right about heavy duty pistons, is the only way to get it to hold if you increase the pressure to about 25-30 psi. Quote: but am I right in thinking your saying by lowering the compression you can run a weak turbo? Quote end. The CT9 is a weak turbo as standard and 4E-FTE is a low compressions engine, so I don't understand the question...

Well this will hold and don't cost so much...

Bottom end? Is that the block or crankshaft, rods, pistons?

Your welcome

I haved this problem on my kadett. It was the topmount at the front suspension. Where you set your tower bars.

Total Cumulative Posts: 0 Last Active: 13th November 2005 - 06:46 PM But anyways. Happy Birthday

Numbers are coming up!!! Denso : PK20R11, the orig. from Toyota. NGK : BKR6EP-11 Hopes it helped.

If you take 2 mm of the top on the pistons or put 2 gasket between head and block you won't change the stroke or displacement. You will change the compression. I have calulated on it now... If you take 1.3 mm of the top, or put an a larger gasket in (1.3 mm + orig. gasket) you will lower your compression from 9.6:1 (4E-FE) to 8.2:1 (4E-FTE). So if you hold the pressure on 0.6 bar the engine will hold as a turbo engine. If you will displacement tune your car you have to install other rods, and crankshaft, up drill your cylinder to get a large bore. Change the pistons so they fit the new bore, and be sure to get them so they get an higher compression. change the gasket and put a lower gasket between head and block. Compression is now about 11:1 and a displacement approximately on 1400 ccm. Then you can change the intake with 4 trottle bodies, then change cams, value, valuespring and blah blah blah. This is the NA way. But this is much more expense way of tuning...

I have the nr. in my car, Ill get them tomorrow...

Well, you have to login to see it...

The filter sits at the back, near the fuel tank. A leak at the fuel rail. Or a leak at the hose...

Ohh do they??? I didn't know... Well, I was wondering... Do you guys ever try the cheep way of tuning? Then take out the pistons and take 1-2 mm of the top... Or use 2 gaskets between cylinder head and the block... That should do it... by the way I have seen more then 6 cars with this setup, without 2 gasket or 2 mm shorter pistons, and they work and hold to it... The biggset reson for burning pistons is a low mixture... Not NA pistons or bad pistons...

Well its weight from the front wheels you take... This is the last place to light up your car... But yes it is weight, and there is not a single car that need weight....

Well ac takes about 5 bhp when actived...