klyfax

Wurth have clear coat for ally. Not made for ally, but works great. http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-chemicals1/building-chemicals/adhesives-building/contact-sl-200ml Its a clear coat for electric prints and other stuff. But at the back its says its for ally too.

Long time since I updated this. So here we go. Building this, have taken some time. More that I thought I would use. I made a bracket for the Water IC. It is mounted at the top of the gearbox, and on the side of the engine. Then I started working on the exhaust system. I used a 200 cells 2.5" Magnaflow cat, 1 2.5" round muffler and a oval 2.5" magnaflow muffler. And a flexpipe and 2 V-band. Also made my downpipe from the wastegate. Made it a screamer, but the exhaust was made, so its ready for the pipe to go back in to the exhaust. Downpipe and wastegate. Flexpipe. Cat and first muffler. Second muffler. It needs to be refitted, but I will do that when I get it in the air on a lift. Entire system, before final welding. When that was done, I worked on the pipe between turbo and IC. I wanted it to be as short as possible, so I tried to put it over the manifold, hoping there was enough space when the bonnet is closed. There is enough space for a 2.5" pipe I welded it, and painted it with heat resistant paint. Then I took some heat resistant alu-tape and cover it. Should help to keep the hot manifold from heating up the pipe. Fitted, and at the right of the photo is my Mishimotor baffled oil catch can. Also fitted my black 4e-fte valve cover with AN fittings. Waiting for my rad, ordered from ID-Workz, I worked on interior of the car. Made this 2 DIN plate, it will hold my HKS turbo timer and Gizzmo Boost controller. Also drilled some holes in it to switches and a shift light controller. Made shiftlight in the cluster cover. Have a small video of it then putting ignition on, but need to upload it to youtube. My clutch was not working, so I ordered a ACT 6 pads clutch for it and a 3e-te flywheel. When the clutch, and rad was fitted, it was time to fill water onto the engine and IC system. Filling IC system. Drilled a hole in the 90" silicone hose before the throttlebody for the intake air temperature sensor. It was blown out of there with 0.5 bar, making a high knock on the wall. Scared the crap out of me. Refitted it and sealed it. After 120 km/75 miles the engine start making noise from the bottom, sounding like a broke bearing. And I was right, all rod bearings was very worn and a crank bearing was damaged. Apparently I assembled the bottom with a little dirt. The crank shaft is measured and have not taking any damage. New bearing is in order, and will come to me in the next week. Rod bearing. The damaged crank bearing. The dot, is from dirt between bearing, and bearing cap. Random photos I took today of it. Small description is over each photo. The Water IC cooler, to the right of it, is the water pump placed. Running when ignition is on. Top of cooler and the filling cap. New rad from ID-Workz, and the old fan, but mounted between bumper and rad. Water IC hose in front of it. From an other side. Under the battery, to the left of rad, is the water IC hoses going to IC. Engine bay at the moment. 2 relays, 1 for IC pump and power to ignition coils. The other is for Water IC Fan, controlled by a switch in the 2 DIN. Relay and container for ACIS system. Controlled by ECU's water injector. Using the water injector, gives me both boost and RPM control of ACIS. I have 4 gauges in the car. AFR and a Defi at the speedo. And 2 Defi and its controller in the glove box. I can change the defi gauge around as I want without having to move wires around to. So haven't decided which gauges should be at the speedo and in glove box. Think I will have the oil temperature at the speedo and boost and oil pressure in glove box for trackday driving. Thats all for now. The engine ran with 0.5 bar for 100 km / 62 miles, and the ACIS gives a great low torque. It can really be felt when driving around. Think it will be a great engine when it runs again.

Hahaha, no. I live in Sweden, 20 km from Denmark. He is 186 miles away from me, living in Jutland, I work in Zealand. There is an entire island between us called Funen. But for many years, we have talked and helped each other. I helped him looking for a starlet here in Copenhagen. So every time he found one, I drove out and looked at it. Saving him from a 170 miles journey. This starlet is bought in Copenhagen.

Got an email from Quimby: Post this. Its my modified mapsensor. He order, I do :-D

Chief Quimby bought Denmarks First registered Starlet Glanza V to his daughter :-D I believe she still got it, but I'm not sure about it...

Sorry my bad.

Not my car. Orders are not to show to much off it... Its a good friend, so I do as I'm told. And Socks, I'm working on to get him to post it in the leaderboard...

I can't. Danish police and Tax guys are hunting tuned cars. And since it is not my car, I won't post pictures of it :-D But it is a standard Red Starlet with grey bumpers, 17" wheels and D2 brakes. And a 6 speed box from a Corolla.

He gave it 2.0 bar. Something hit the limit Only around 40 HP more from 0.4 bar. Should have been around 60 HP. So now its 440 HP, on a 5e-fe engine. On 98 octane pump gas. Oh, he bought a NOS kit for it. He is trying hard to kill that engine

A friend just hit 400 HP on a 5E-FE. Specs. 5E-FE Wiseco pistons China unknown rods. Other cams, cant remember the name. Magic work on head. 4e-fte valve springs. Homemade intake and exhaust manifold. GT3071R Turbo. China FMIC. 520 ml injectors, they are pushed to the limit. MegaSquirt ECU. 5e-fe DIS ignition. Pump fuel, 99 Vpower from shell. 400 HP @ 7276 rpm, 380 nm. 1.6 bar. He is changing the injectors next weekend, and then he will give it 2 bar. It might run, or it might go BANG! He said :-D

Now... Since I was behind with 3 days, I worked instead of taking pictures. Have taken some, but I will wait posting them to I have time to write something with them. And will take more pictures some day of the setup. Tried to start up earlier this day, it didn't start. But I could smell the gas getting out of the exhaust. So I knew it was a problem with ignition. After 2 hours of checking wiring between ECU and coils, searching the internet for help, I found out that the ground to the coils was bad. So I took 2 wires and connected + and - of the coils, directly to the battery. Now there where sparks from nr. 1 plug. Put it all together and tried to start it up once again. It started, sounded ok, and kept running for about 1 minute before I stopped it. AFR is not connected at all, and there is no water on the engine. Still needs a new rad, just waiting on Idrees to get it and ship it to me :-D Exhaust is done, water-to-air IC mounted, IC piping is almost done. But it still needs alot of work before is ready to run. But hearing it running gives a great boost. At least the hard part is over. MegaSquirts tunings program, MegaTune on my laptop while running. The engine bay as it looks right now. See the red and black wire, its the coils directly + and - :-D Rad is only mounted so I could build stuff around it. Now its time to go to bed, tomorrow I will work on the loom. The ECU is working, so I can mount that now...

Hit by sickness, so its time for a small update. 5E-FHE mounted in car. Test placing of air to water IC. 5E-FHE vacuum container mounted near actuator to the ACIS valves. Actuator is the one to the right of the container. Its a ID-Workz front upper strut brace :-D New fuel filter and a steel braided hose. And I'm done with making the engine loom, pre-tested all sensor, every thing seems to work. Forgot to take a lot of pictures, will do it next time I see the car. First up, I need to get well again, then I will make the exhaust system. And I'm waiting on a new rad from Id-Workz. The price of repairing the old one was over 400£...

Don't take the old bearings. You will drive 1000 miles, then the old bearings need to be changed into new ones. And its a pain in the ass getting old bearings out with out destroying them. Do it right first time, buy new bearings.

Thx Old engine is out, sensors have been moved to 5e. HEL Braided Clutch Line mounted. All engine mount is changed to powerflex.

ACIS gives great low and middle torque. It takes a little high end power compared to 4e-fte intake or rolla mani. But you need something to control the valves.

It is now parked in a friends garage for engine change.

Still looks great. Keep it up...

No need to change something that works Around what RPM do you have full boost?

So its time for another update. My Honda rad start leaking, so I gave it a wurth radiator sealant. Co-workers said it was the best sealant on the markedet, it won't stop anything. Glad is on the engine thats going out. So I have to take it off, clean it and sent it to the locale radiator dude so he can change the element. A mate is also runing with 4E-FE / 5E-FE DIS ignition with a MegaSquirt ECU, on a 5e-fte. At the moment runing over 300 bhp with 1 bar boost. Great figures. He won't stop before he reaches at least 400 bhp. I will keep you updated on his ride as well. The trigger wheel/cambelt wheel starting to make problems, MS can't read the wheel perfectly , so he told me to fix it before trying to start the car. Before After, 1 hour job. 1x 36 -2 teeth trigger wheel. Grinded the space between teeth 1 and 34 away, leaving a space instead of the metal. Easy job, teeth 1 and 34 is slightly higher than the metal between them. Picture is from behind. Its MS approved now. Finally got the package from Tuning Development. Great service from them, very bad service from ParcelForce. Almost 2 weeks before I got the package. Search on google, and I'm not the only one with huge problems with ParcelForce here in Sweden. Seems like 14 days is normal delivery to Sweden, on Priority sent. In the package there was a TD04 return hose for the turbo. That was just the right part for my turbo setup. Some welding, and the return pipe was pointing at sump pipe. Then I put the hose on. Perfect fit after cutting in down to a normal size I have taken the radio and speakers out. No need for them anyway. And fitted the 2 DIN radio frame. Make myself a place for the HKS turbotimer and Gizzmo Boost controller in the 2 DIN radio. Its a working progress, but I only need to drill 5 holes, grind it a little and paint it. This was the start idea, but I have put the controller and timer in the top instead. Parts are coming from UK, US and Denmark the last week and this week. Magnaflow mufflers and cat. Catch can. An Fittings and hose Wastegate piping and stuff. Intake piping, and silicone hoses. Front 24mm ARB Droplinks Ultraracing lower brace. Heat Reflective tape. HEI clutch steel braided hose. And a lots of other stuff. Next weeks plans are to get the turbo manifold grinded so its nice, wrapped it in powerwrap, hot side from turbo is going over the manifold, so its needs a wrap, and thats why i bought some heat reflective tape to the IC piping going over. Well thats the plan for now, don't know if there is room for it. Also need to make a wastegate downpipe back to the exhaust system, and drill a hole for it. Next will be making the last of the 2 DIN. Thats all for now, more to come over the next 3-4 weeks.

Two proposals. Do something about your silicone water hose to the turbo. The hose is going to be hard very fast, then it cracks and start leaking. Silicone and radiant heat is not good at all. And your cooler setup, you need at least 0.5" (1.5 cm) space between 2 coolers so the air can change direction and eliminate the turbulence. Otherwise the oil cooler would just block the air instead of passing through it. It will still cool the oil, but wont be very effective. Hope its readable :-D Its late :-D I like the FMIC and water cooler, looks like quality and very good. Looking forward for some video of it :-)

Is that a water line thats goes directly over the downpipe? Might want to move it, the hose can't withstand the heat from DP. The highest heat resistance on a hose I have seen is 260°C / 500°F. DP is way over 500°C / 932°F. No way its going to hold. I like the front, looks great!

Come on with that video :-D Can't wait :-D

Great offer, thanks alot. But will buy a new glass instead. The left one has no marks, scratches or any damage, so i would have 2 taillights in mint condition.