klyfax

Have anyone ever tried fitting a LSD in a EP85/95 gearbox? A quaife or TRD LSD, from a LSD gearbox? The teeth-ring (don't know the name) is the same as other FWD cars, bearings likewise... Or can a non lsd turbo gearbox be fitted to the 4wd system? I know, you need to drill holes and stuff to get the transaxle to fitt. Getting a Celica in a Starlet is not a problem. It cost some, and you have to make/order some parts thats need to be custom made.

A large FMIC can do the same as an chargecooler. Both coolers can go under outside temp. But its a lot easy with a chargecooler. But we are talking 2-3 hp more on a 250-300 setup. Ive only bought a chargecooler set, because i don't want a large IC on display at the front. And for trying it. Chargecoolers are used in dragracing and FMIC are mostly used in circuit racing, or rally.

45 degrees opening is enough

Its not wastegate valve thats the problem. Its the WG hole thats to small. All internal WG have that problem. External WG, or use some sort of cutting to wide the hole. Ive done 3 turbos, all 3 controlled the boost perfectly after the mod. No overboost, no spikes. Or it its the hose to the actuator thats to small, so the actuator doesn't react fast enough.

Thats not a turbo. Its the valve stem seals, piston rings or a damaged piston... EDIT: No pcv valve pipe is not supposed to blow air. It sounds like a piston problem.

They use aircraft aluminium for race nuts. Normal aluminium are known to soften and get lose. Be safe, use steel nuts. They come in all colours and shapes. Take a look at Rare rims, find the nut you like, and send them an email. They have blue, red, green, and properly more colours. I got green tuner nuts on mine. Cost 20£ + shipment.

Every company that works with hydraulic have it, and can make a new hose if you need it. A workshop that works on construction- or agricultural machinery might help you as well.

Throw a Celica 4wd engine, gearbox and axles in? All kinds of setups to engine, gearbox, LSD, brakes...

Drill it and give it an oversize tread. You can get coils that goes from one tread and one down. From 10 mm to 8 mm or from 12 to 10. Or bigger, or smaller.

4efe block + crank stock 4efte GT rods. 74mm piston can work great if the engine is not worn. Check that and save the money. Aim for stock compression - camshaft are build for it. Go 7200 rpm. Engine is build for it. GT25 at 1-1.2 bar external wg sounds great. emb/emu - whats that? Match port both manifolds to top, leave the rest. You might do more harm then good. acis manifold, if you already have it, or can find it with a very low cost, mount it. Else leave it standard. Get a Greddy ECU system or something that can control fuel and ignition. Its here the durability of the engine is. Target

Quaife and TRD Helican LSD uses standard gear oil. A friction plate LSD need LSD gearbox oil.

Yup need a wiring job. Did it myself on a corolla, worked very well. But can't remember what I did

Do you have the same setup on your car, that sam_glanza had? Yes, then the mapping will work very good. Still need a fine tuning, but will run on sam's map.

Smaller turbos have no problem with compressor stall. Big turbos have, but must of them have anti surge. A turbo without anti surge loses RPM without DV. A turbo with anti surge doesn't loses RPM without DV. Very big turbo doesn't loses RPM without DV, with or without anti surge. Its simply to big. Setting the ECU to flatshift, DV is not needed at all...

Then ECU doesn't give power to TPS then :-) ECU only give power to 5v sensors. Cool you fund the problem.

Did you take the harness from EP82 and put it in EP91? Might be the problem. Sounds like ECU is missing some power. ECU doesn't give power to injectors, coil, oil and battery alert. Is the ECU fuse checked in the engine bay? Some people don't know there is fuses out there. Called ECU fuse. The ECU gives power to the throttle sensor, map sensor and intake temperature sensor. Check if these got power, then ECU must have power. I think that a EP91 harness put together with a EP82 engine harness might not give power to ECU. They are probably more than one power wire to the ECU, so sensors might h

Give it a radiator flush. Its works! EDIT: Like this

Yes is 12x1.5mm Rota knows that if you write it is for a Toyota...

I got those on my ride. Got them at Rota Wheels The Red colouer. Go look at the shop, find the nut shape you like and send them an email. They have all kinds of colours, more than on the shop. Mine is made from steel...

-2 in camber, 3 in caster, -1.5 in tracking. White line specs: 1 camber for road 1-2 for fast road 2-3 for tracks Max caster using caster kit/anti lift kit Tracking -1

Knowing this topic is a month old, I will reply to it. Anti-lag (AL) and Launch Control (LC) is NOT the same. Anti-Lag can melt down an entire engine in seconds, that is why I reply. LC is a system that boost up the turbo when holding still. There are 2 systems. One that uses fuel to control the RPM while doing LC, and one that uses the ignition to control RPM. The one that uses fuel to control RPM, works almost like a normal RPM limiter, set to where ever you want. Gives you full boost around 6000 rpm. The other system, you have, most likely seen, or heard. It gives fuel based on the fuel

For a half street car, half trackday toy, as mine it's one of the best I driven. Bit too soft for the track, and bit to hard for the street. But awesome in turns on the street.

Toyotas are M12x1.5. Hondas are M12x1.25. Hiace studs are longer. And will fitt perfect. But dont know how long they are...

Why not use a drag tyre instead? BFGoodrich g-Force T/A Drag Radial

Hi Keri. What size is Wardy90s kit?