klyfax

Wurth have clear coat for ally. Not made for ally, but works great. http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-chemicals1/building-chemicals/adhesives-building/contact-sl-200ml Its a clear coat for electric prints and other stuff. But at the back its says its for ally too.

Long time since I updated this. So here we go. Building this, have taken some time. More that I thought I would use. I made a bracket for the Water IC. It is mounted at the top of the gearbox, and on the side of the engine. Then I started working on the exhaust system. I used a 200 cells 2.5" Magnaflow cat, 1 2.5" round muffler and a oval 2.5" magnaflow muffler. And a flexpipe and 2 V-band. Also made my downpipe from the wastegate. Made it a screamer, but the exhaust was made, so its ready for the pipe to go back in to the exhaust. Downpipe and wastegate. Flexpipe. Cat and first muffler. Second muffler. It needs to be refitted, but I will do that when I get it in the air on a lift. Entire system, before final welding. When that was done, I worked on the pipe between turbo and IC. I wanted it to be as short as possible, so I tried to put it over the manifold, hoping there was enough space when the bonnet is closed. There is enough space for a 2.5" pipe I welded it, and painted it with heat resistant paint. Then I took some heat resistant alu-tape and cover it. Should help to keep the hot manifold from heating up the pipe. Fitted, and at the right of the photo is my Mishimotor baffled oil catch can. Also fitted my black 4e-fte valve cover with AN fittings. Waiting for my rad, ordered from ID-Workz, I worked on interior of the car. Made this 2 DIN plate, it will hold my HKS turbo timer and Gizzmo Boost controller. Also drilled some holes in it to switches and a shift light controller. Made shiftlight in the cluster cover. Have a small video of it then putting ignition on, but need to upload it to youtube. My clutch was not working, so I ordered a ACT 6 pads clutch for it and a 3e-te flywheel. When the clutch, and rad was fitted, it was time to fill water onto the engine and IC system. Filling IC system. Drilled a hole in the 90" silicone hose before the throttlebody for the intake air temperature sensor. It was blown out of there with 0.5 bar, making a high knock on the wall. Scared the crap out of me. Refitted it and sealed it. After 120 km/75 miles the engine start making noise from the bottom, sounding like a broke bearing. And I was right, all rod bearings was very worn and a crank bearing was damaged. Apparently I assembled the bottom with a little dirt. The crank shaft is measured and have not taking any damage. New bearing is in order, and will come to me in the next week. Rod bearing. The damaged crank bearing. The dot, is from dirt between bearing, and bearing cap. Random photos I took today of it. Small description is over each photo. The Water IC cooler, to the right of it, is the water pump placed. Running when ignition is on. Top of cooler and the filling cap. New rad from ID-Workz, and the old fan, but mounted between bumper and rad. Water IC hose in front of it. From an other side. Under the battery, to the left of rad, is the water IC hoses going to IC. Engine bay at the moment. 2 relays, 1 for IC pump and power to ignition coils. The other is for Water IC Fan, controlled by a switch in the 2 DIN. Relay and container for ACIS system. Controlled by ECU's water injector. Using the water injector, gives me both boost and RPM control of ACIS. I have 4 gauges in the car. AFR and a Defi at the speedo. And 2 Defi and its controller in the glove box. I can change the defi gauge around as I want without having to move wires around to. So haven't decided which gauges should be at the speedo and in glove box. Think I will have the oil temperature at the speedo and boost and oil pressure in glove box for trackday driving. Thats all for now. The engine ran with 0.5 bar for 100 km / 62 miles, and the ACIS gives a great low torque. It can really be felt when driving around. Think it will be a great engine when it runs again.

Hahaha, no. I live in Sweden, 20 km from Denmark. He is 186 miles away from me, living in Jutland, I work in Zealand. There is an entire island between us called Funen. But for many years, we have talked and helped each other. I helped him looking for a starlet here in Copenhagen. So every time he found one, I drove out and looked at it. Saving him from a 170 miles journey. This starlet is bought in Copenhagen.

Got an email from Quimby: Post this. Its my modified mapsensor. He order, I do :-D

Chief Quimby bought Denmarks First registered Starlet Glanza V to his daughter :-D I believe she still got it, but I'm not sure about it...

Sorry my bad.

Not my car. Orders are not to show to much off it... Its a good friend, so I do as I'm told. And Socks, I'm working on to get him to post it in the leaderboard...

I can't. Danish police and Tax guys are hunting tuned cars. And since it is not my car, I won't post pictures of it :-D But it is a standard Red Starlet with grey bumpers, 17" wheels and D2 brakes. And a 6 speed box from a Corolla.

He gave it 2.0 bar. Something hit the limit Only around 40 HP more from 0.4 bar. Should have been around 60 HP. So now its 440 HP, on a 5e-fe engine. On 98 octane pump gas. Oh, he bought a NOS kit for it. He is trying hard to kill that engine