klyfax

High Quality alloy (flight alloy) nuts hold just fine. But the cost is crazy. Go for a steel nut set. Cheap, and works just fine. Runing rare rims tuner nuts. They are very good.

Low boost, 0.4 bar, high boost, 0.6 bar. Have you changed anything? What are the mods on it?

They are no need for brake dias in a starlet. With NA brakes and Glanza brakes, the dias is very good. Try turn and brake at the same time, the back goes lose. Not many people can drive a FWD with a lose rear end. The 2 tracks ive driving here in Sweden both have braking spots that plays with the rear of the car. Countersteering (a little) while on the brakes is not funny the first 5 times.

Brakes is not all about having the biggest brakes. Big brakes may brake better, and outbrake other cars, but might slow you down in turns and acceleration. Having 1 kg extra in wheels, brakes, hub is the same as adding 8 kg in the car, when you talk about how the car behave. And the longer away from the center, a rotating mass is, the slower your car brakes and accelerate. Try fitting 13" wheels, take a 0-62 mph time, then fitt 17" wheels, the 0-62 time is higher. If your brake setup can lock up every wheel in every corner of a track, then adding a bigger brake setup will only give you longer brake distance, slower acceleration and a car that fells heavy when changing direction. So taking 2 exactly the same cars and drives. 1 of them change to a bigger brake setup. He can now out-brake the other car, but he has lower turn speed and acceleration. Depending on the track, he will lose or win because of the brakes. K-sport and D2 brakes are big, they last long in pads and disc, they have very good stopping power, they dont heat up, but they are really heavy brakes. I had a D2 330 mm brake kit for my starlet. A mate bought a Brembo kit, 300 mm, for a Honda I think, and fitted on his starlet. They very a lot lighter, in calipers, and the disc. Of course 30mm less disc is lighter, but we are talking about 60% of the weight of the D2 kit. Run as small brakes and rims that you can, it will be overall faster on the track. Of course, you need to stop every time without problems and fast as well. For a 100% pure street setup, run big brakes. They might be heavy, but giving 0.1-0.2 bars of boost will counter the effect of the brakes. And you need to stop very fast when some dog jumps out in front of you.

I think it is pressed into the serial numberplate at the engine bay... But I'm not sure...

The thermostat kit sends the oil from filter to engine when cold, and when it gets hot it sends it from filter to cooler to engine. Fill the engine with oil, so it reaches the mark on the pin. Take it around, kick it, so you are sure the thermostat has opened and filled the cooler. Remember to prefill the cooler, else you get air instead of oil into the engine when thermostat opens. Let it cool down for an hour, check the oil and refill.

Its a Sparco. Ordered to a celica. Have the box in the basement, so i can get the right number, if someone want it. Just checked toyodiy.com, it will fit any EUR EP91 with Airbag. Don't know about a JP EP91 like a Glanza, or a 4wd.

Sparco wheel hub for a Celica, modified to fit a Starlet NA, LHD with airbag. Horn and indicators works fine.

460s gives fuel to around 300 safe BHP. 550s is around 350 bhp, still safe.

I have a felling, that the transfer box is connected in the front diff in drivers side? If right, then I see the problem

Drill the wastegate hole. Make that hole bigger, so the exhaust can get out.

What kind of front bumper is that? Never seen it before...

You have to be sure what you have. Wrong oil will kill a LSD in 3000 miles. I have seen that to many times.

Thats all things that outside of the gearbox. Whats inside? LSD? What kind of LSD?

OK... That takes some fun out of a 4wd. Then I'm happy i didn't buy a 4wd. No LSD on a track car isn't fun. I have a friend that is looking for a 4wd over the winter. He and hes friend might find an answer, they are quite crazy, but brilliant at the same time. I hope he finds one, it will be the first in Scandinavian.