A L 3 X

After asking on here, and not getting anywhere, and emailing various HID companies who either couldn't help or didn't reply, I decided to find a fix for this myself after constantly forgetting my full beams were on. The fix is pretty straightforward, and just requires a 40A 12V Single pole normally open relay(which can be bought from Maplins among other places), some heatshrink tubing, a female spade connector, and a piece of wire. Firstly you need to jump 30 with 86 on the relay, so take the wire and crimp the spade connector onto it, then clip this into 30 before bending the connector down flat, this will enable the relay to fit the headlamp plug. You can then heatshrink over this connection to insulate it. Next you can strip the other end of the wire and loop it round to 87, it may seem a bodge but i just threaded the wire through the hole in the connector and then wrapped it around itself, before heatshrinking.(I did this over soldering or using connectors as it means it will still plug into the cars headlamp plug. Once you've done this its time to plug the relay in, its plugged into the drivers headlamp plug which should now be unused as your hid kit just uses the one, hence the problem with the missing dash light. You just need to take a little plastic off the cars headlamp plug to get the relay to plug in, I used some snips but you can use a knife, dremel, whatever: I then looped a cable tie through the back of the relay and round the headlamp plug just to ensure they stay together, but this is optional really. And now, we have a working full beam indicator:

Right, today I was trying to fix the issue of the dash lamp not coming on with a hid kit Now it seems I've blown something thanks to the wanker at maplins selling me the wrong resistor :/ im getting light to the passenger side but the headlamp connector on the drivers side I was messing with now won't power a bulb, so if it's working passenger side but not drivers what could it be? I'm doubting a fuse? Cheers

Pretty sure they do but not 100%

Yep, they usually break when they come out so expect to pay that much I got mine off iddy and saved a couple of quid after vat, and was able to collect as well

If I hadnt just bought some bits ;(

Anyone got one? one of mines just blown

I've already got a double one but it's a bit rough :/

Anyone got a mint one please?

Anyone an ideas where I could place my greddy Ebc as I'm looking at getting a double son unit and currently have it I the slot below the single unit :/ Nod bodge ideas please want it looking as neat and oem as possible, looks like I might have to put it in the glovebox for now, but will be difficult to use the scramble feature lol

I think I put a threa up at the same time as you and he posted in both lol Yeah probably is, was that his username? If not, iddy is your man mate

Bean has a turbosmart for sale at the same price, or iddy sells new tials for 190 quid Sorry mate, I bought Johnnys :/

Is it genuine Tial yeah?

I'll have to look into it mate Wat colours can you get?

Send me some details iddy if poss I don't think I can use vband, mines just a two bolt flange

Can you put a pic up mate? Iddy what type of prices?

As above please, no shitty ones though lol, ideally genuine Tial or Turbosmart but will consider anything

You can leave the actuator in place without vac lines attached, therefore holding it shut, but it's a bodge

Mine did, bought the brand new purple one, fitted it, didn't like the sound so took it off haha

Surely thats only so you can untack it if you want to go back to standard?

External wastegates are bigger than the stock or even ported CT9 wastegate so therefore let gasses escape quicker and stop boost creep You can have a screamer pipe coming from the wastegate or can have the dump pipe plumbed back into the decat pipe