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Yep, on the cold line when it's cold and on the hot line when it's been run :/ Yeah, sounds similar to mine, not a constant click like cv joints, can you feel yours through the steering when it happens?

One question, for a turbo engine175psi is fairly high, how come?

I'm slowly gathering the mods to aim for 1 bar my ct9, now I really am worried about cutting out my bumper as although i love the widemouthed look, i'm a bit OCD and couldnt do with it unless it was smoothed and cut perfectly? So just wondering, is an ARC TMIC suitable to run 1 bar at or would i need an FMIC, and which option is recommended?

Ah I see, is this on the inside? Don't suppose you could show me a pic? by the way I've also changed drop links and put brand new coilovers as well which hasn't fixed it As for cv's people, it's not making the noise like click click click on full lock, surely it would if that was the problem? What I meant by that corner that makes the jarring is because it's round a corner im like maybe half a turn to the left, down a hill and over a Bump in the road, that combined movement Seems To cause like a jarring or knock feeling in the steering, kinda like a drop link or balljoint Type knock but can be felt through the steering, it's not like the cv joint click. Amjad, is it the type of noise I'm Describing and is it full lock or what?

Right, for a while I've had quite an irritating knock from the steering if wobblin the wheel from left to Right, also when turning left onto then entrance of my street there is a Raised strip of Tarmac in the road, when I hit that whilst turning left I can feel a slight jarring through the wheel which I assume is the same problem. I have changed the track road ends and the track rod drumstick things If someone rocks the wheel while I look about in the engine bay I can hear the noise which seems to be from Both sides, I can't see anything having play but if I hold the rubber boots whilst doing it it doesn't feel like the play is directly there but I can feel that it is there somewhere f that makes sense? Any help would be appreciated

As above, the weight on the car usually makes it easier, not always the case With starlet shocks as all they have is that crap little bit stuck up to hold while undoing the nut

As in it fired out when the nut was taken off? Fair enough then lol, I do have a set they were just fiddly to fit in the starlet springs I've heard the cable tie trick does work tho to get em off as long as you use the large ones that are like 1cm wide, or a ratchet strap would work if you have one?

Are you serious? Ive worked in main dealers who don't use them, people make up rumours about them flying across the room and stuff but it's not likely. I had some spax 40mm springs on some nackered standard shocks, all I did was loosen the top nut when the cars weight is on it, then take em off , lay the shock on its side in a box so it can't go far and is aiming away from me, then just undid the nut, the spring and top mount barely moved... I suppose standard springs would be different with them being longer?

If you have some of those really thick heavy duty cable ties you can wrap those tight around the old spring before removing the top nut and then the lowering springs may go in without, when i removed my 40mm springs to fit coils they came off easily without sending the top mount flying. I do havespring compressors they're just a pain in the arse to use sometimes lol

As far as I know both systems fit either car aside from the backbox hangers, I'm not sure if the japspeed system differs though? May just be an irrelevant design difference

You could get it rewarded if you know a decent welder? It's only the backbox hangers that differ

I'm sure that's an ep82 rear box?

I would contact the police mate, my Lass got bumped into and they drove off, she reported it and soon as the police went knocking she was offered the money to fix it by them, surprising but it happened

Such a shit thing to happen mate At least you've come away unharmed though

I think there's a group buy for meister r's somewhere mate, I went for them brand new And I don't regret it, amazing coilovers and even feel comfortable at 24/22 out of 32 damping settings

I had spax springs in standar shocks, with a panhard and 15x6.5 et40 spaced to et35 were rubbing very slightly on the back with 195/50s on so I assume the 7js will be worse? I've since removed the spacers and fitted Meisters on 22 damping level

Yeah Nissan midnight purple 2 or 3 with bronze wheels Or Nissan bayside blue with white, grey, black, or bronze wheels Or BMW sepang bronze with maybe anthracite wheels? Or even some kinda candy red colour

I've got some spax 40mm progressively wound ones, max of 7k miles on them Looking for £50 plus post

Well I assume this could be classed as in idle? But was after a bit If a drive and tapping the pedal? Doesn't...well, hasn't ever done it on idle before and hasn't done it since tonight?

As in just happening once? Or always doing it? Like I say this is the first time it's done it and seems to have stopped now? That's the thing though, it's only done it this once and then stopped? And seemed to be because of tapping the throttle, but now when tapping the throttle it don't do it, really strange lol, I hope it's nothing, but would prefer it to be turbo oil seals than the rings or valve seals or whatever

Got a weird one here, now since buying the car in October I've had no problems of this sort since, no smoke from the car when warm, cold or when driving and next to no oil usage, if any. I've been working away without the car for a week so wanted to take it for a little(spirited) blast, obviously I let it warm up and everything as usual, and had been out driving about an hour or two, but then parked up and jumped out to have a cig but left the engine running...when I got back in I gave the throttle a couple of taps to about 2-3k revs and then let off and some blue smoke came from the exhaust(not a cloud of it like my old car with knackered valve seals used to on a morning) but enough to be noticeable, so I gave it a few more taps on the throttle and it did it again, left it to idle a bit and kept doing it till the smoke stopped, and now no matter how many times I rev it it's not smoking at all now, as before? Obviously I'll keep an eye on it but any indications of the problem...valve seals, piston rings, turbo? Or could it have just been a random one off and be nothing?( probably hoping for too much) Cheers

Could you by any chance link me to where u got the omp wheel and boss, love the wheel on it?