A L 3 X

That would mean spraying the whole bumper and lip mate, which im a bit skint to do atm tbh, whereas i trust myself to spray the centre bit

I like the wheels lol, but yeah it dont really show the ic lol. Im thinking, if I go for an FMIC, I might cut out the bumper, smooth it, and do this: in gloss black though, what do people think?

Any more pics of that micky? I prefer the fully cut out look but its very time consuming/expensive...did he keep or remove the aircon?

Amjad that red Glanza looks sick, well they all do but it's the nearest to how mine would look except I've got the oem 98 spec lip as well, I think cutting the bumper would be easy it's the splitter that will be hard as it has the cut out section for the plate?

Emptied it now sorry :/ Amjad, that's exactly it, an fmic sticking out of a neatly cut bumper looks rude as fuck My dilemma is a front mount is better in looks, performance and sound, my only worry is cutting the bumper and getting it and my optional lip to look nice without smoothing and tea praying, any tips?

I've looked at the rack from above whilst someone is wobbling I've changed springs to coilovers mate, brand new Meisters with new top mounts, haven't changed the ball joints but they werent split, I could change them but I can't see that causing ye knock and play feel in the steering wheel when wobbled left and right?

Yep, on the cold line when it's cold and on the hot line when it's been run :/ Yeah, sounds similar to mine, not a constant click like cv joints, can you feel yours through the steering when it happens?

One question, for a turbo engine175psi is fairly high, how come?

I'm slowly gathering the mods to aim for 1 bar my ct9, now I really am worried about cutting out my bumper as although i love the widemouthed look, i'm a bit OCD and couldnt do with it unless it was smoothed and cut perfectly? So just wondering, is an ARC TMIC suitable to run 1 bar at or would i need an FMIC, and which option is recommended?

Ah I see, is this on the inside? Don't suppose you could show me a pic? by the way I've also changed drop links and put brand new coilovers as well which hasn't fixed it As for cv's people, it's not making the noise like click click click on full lock, surely it would if that was the problem? What I meant by that corner that makes the jarring is because it's round a corner im like maybe half a turn to the left, down a hill and over a Bump in the road, that combined movement Seems To cause like a jarring or knock feeling in the steering, kinda like a drop link or balljoint Type knock but can

Right, for a while I've had quite an irritating knock from the steering if wobblin the wheel from left to Right, also when turning left onto then entrance of my street there is a Raised strip of Tarmac in the road, when I hit that whilst turning left I can feel a slight jarring through the wheel which I assume is the same problem. I have changed the track road ends and the track rod drumstick things If someone rocks the wheel while I look about in the engine bay I can hear the noise which seems to be from Both sides, I can't see anything having play but if I hold the rubber boots whilst doin

As above, the weight on the car usually makes it easier, not always the case With starlet shocks as all they have is that crap little bit stuck up to hold while undoing the nut

As in it fired out when the nut was taken off? Fair enough then lol, I do have a set they were just fiddly to fit in the starlet springs I've heard the cable tie trick does work tho to get em off as long as you use the large ones that are like 1cm wide, or a ratchet strap would work if you have one?

Are you serious? Ive worked in main dealers who don't use them, people make up rumours about them flying across the room and stuff but it's not likely. I had some spax 40mm springs on some nackered standard shocks, all I did was loosen the top nut when the cars weight is on it, then take em off , lay the shock on its side in a box so it can't go far and is aiming away from me, then just undid the nut, the spring and top mount barely moved... I suppose standard springs would be different with them being longer?

If you have some of those really thick heavy duty cable ties you can wrap those tight around the old spring before removing the top nut and then the lowering springs may go in without, when i removed my 40mm springs to fit coils they came off easily without sending the top mount flying. I do havespring compressors they're just a pain in the arse to use sometimes lol

As far as I know both systems fit either car aside from the backbox hangers, I'm not sure if the japspeed system differs though? May just be an irrelevant design difference

You could get it rewarded if you know a decent welder? It's only the backbox hangers that differ

I'm sure that's an ep82 rear box?

I would contact the police mate, my Lass got bumped into and they drove off, she reported it and soon as the police went knocking she was offered the money to fix it by them, surprising but it happened

Do you do oil filters mate? Trd or hks etc ones

Such a shit thing to happen mate At least you've come away unharmed though

I think there's a group buy for meister r's somewhere mate, I went for them brand new And I don't regret it, amazing coilovers and even feel comfortable at 24/22 out of 32 damping settings

I had spax springs in standar shocks, with a panhard and 15x6.5 et40 spaced to et35 were rubbing very slightly on the back with 195/50s on so I assume the 7js will be worse? I've since removed the spacers and fitted Meisters on 22 damping level

Yeah Nissan midnight purple 2 or 3 with bronze wheels Or Nissan bayside blue with white, grey, black, or bronze wheels Or BMW sepang bronze with maybe anthracite wheels? Or even some kinda candy red colour

I've got some spax 40mm progressively wound ones, max of 7k miles on them Looking for £50 plus post