nastyrash 2003

gutted??!, now i have stopped crying, and had time 2 reflect on this sad story!!. i say ho cares mate sell it, or even better track the mother bitch and stop racing on the roads, and see its true potential, but will mean spending every penny on tyres and fuel, i think your misses has somthing 2 do with u selling up, just get a smart little run about that goes from A TO B. lol and those of us that have petrol running thw our vains "WE NEED MORE POWER CAPTAIN"

am going nurbergering in aug for a week and am hoping to get across to spain to taste some of thr tracks, oh ye silverstone in june f1 for the full weekend and JAE weekend also.

after the arrival of the internet my interest in adult entertainment went up to the next level. and have bin researching frantikley, in order to better my knowlage and understanding. so 1 day it might all pay off and i can thn declare that ???????? I hold the worlds fastest wank record. lol. got it down to 1.06min but am not sure if thy class fish as animals because ive bin told thats just wrong. just pulling on your pisser yoll???. got louds of qualification and experience in mainly enginering, but also have my class 1&2 licence, my stacker licence. and weilding, mig and tig mostly but can gas and stick.

first thing to do fella iz check your brakes out, as brake over heating, smells just like clutch overheating, look for sticking sliders on the calipers, this will also affect braking. hope this helps

yep, im in agreement, first thing to do is correct the problems u know about thn start chasing noises. could be coming from the cv jonits.

yep you should feel som difference in low down pull and throttle response but, and this is a big but, the longer runners on this the second manifold off the corrola 95-98,is not the best, as it produces more torque because of the longer runners and shorter plenum chamber, but also restrics top end hp reducing the 89-93 corrola from 99hp-88hp but had a increase in torque from 74 on the 89-93 to 78 i think on the 95-98 might have bin a bit more check the 4efe generations on wikidpedia it tells you all about thm. i would personally go for the early 93 corrola manifolds both inlet and exhaust, but som modification and adaptation of the throttle body is rquired. but leaves u free to put big turbo throttle body on freeing up more top end hp. i have done 1 of these mods to a early starlet and if you need som help just message me mate. also the early corrola ECU is a bit more aggresize on the fueling side and also plays a part in the increased proformance.

hello thr mate, from the battery neg post to inlet manifold bolt or thr is a sensor eathing bank on the right side of the inlet mani, secured in by a 6mm bolt. thn you should have 1 from the manifold to the body - from the body back to the battery, the more earthing leads to the engine the better normaly use 2 my self one 8mm multicore wire to inlet (if alloy) manifold, 1 6mm wire to the gearbox, hope this helps fella. remember to leavel som slack in the length of wire as the engine does move a bit, also be very awair of the exhaust manifold as this getts very hot and will melt anything that it comes into contact with, also fans and drive belts.

wot up gee, and good morning to you. right hear we go again, simple checks to do, clean out throttle body, adjust up accelerator cable, can put a earthing kit on the engine always helps, check cranking and battery voltage, pin out your diagnostic socket and get blink codes, thn we can go from thr

ello fella, if also hard to select gears, thn i would go for a bleed up on the clutch, but would like to ask a few more questions first, 1). does the gear nob sit in the center (nutral) of the selecting gate, 2) did you check the oil level or drop any of the gearbox oil wen doing clutch, 3) do you get any slip or judder from the clutch (car wen in motion)

yep mate belive it, also the cat or decat exhaust pipe mount bracket is another fav for the numpty factor. as these are hard to get to, but play a big part in stoping exess wieght,,and forces acting upon the manifold and turbo and OIL FEED PIPE, and if not thr it will'nt be long before oil feed crackes and bie bie engine and turbo. always a bonus to check as i have seen loads of 4efte engine with these bolts missing.

yep the thermostat job is to get the engine up to operating temp so if this happens correctly all engine internals expand making big cold component tolerences small thus reducing internal engine wear + sealing, and if faulty 2 things happen, over heating = engine internals (quick engine failure or engine running cold = (long term) exessize engine internal wear, symtoms= loss of power, exhaust emmisions high.

lol, amazing. take out rad, take off cat from turbo, remove oil feed pipe and return (do not push down on thm as it has a bracket atached to the cat from the engine and will not movealso the oil feed to the turbo is on a solid pipe and if forced will fateig and crack) remove bracket from cat to engine thn disconect water feed and return to turbo at the rubber flexi pipes coming off thermostat housing, thn pull turbo out. can be done in 1hr no problems. and luk to remove mani like that is a big achevment well done you know your stuff.

speak to you soon fella, welcom to the wierd and wonderfully fast starlet world.

A lighter flywheel is also a recommendation. Not only do they increase throttle response, they "free up" horsepower by decreasing rotational mass.You can shave your existing flywheel However, this is a controversial issue and if you search will discover how everyone feels about it and the dangers that can come with it. flywheels are normally balanced. flywheels can be lightened within limits and the most effective place for lightening is as far away from the centre as possible. the reason is that force times distance applies and removal of material nearest the starter gear has more effect on the acceleration factor. caution thw Aviod thin sections (less than 0.312in/around 8mm i think) as you risk disintegration in service. now the question is how much iz ok to take off, this will depend entirely on the original thickness of your flywheel but, usually, it will be in the range of 20%-50% of the original weight. if the engine is for race porpose thn all engine internal conponents should be balanced to the last gram for 7000rpm on a continuous basis. and the balancing proces should be crank thn flywheel thn presure plate. always use new clutch plates in my experience as the dowel holes in the presure plate can most of the time wear and not conform to being concentric. this is a masive problem and will thrw everything out. not read the link put on this topic and am sorry if i have just repeated anything, and am talking from my own experience with lightend parts. 1 of the more effective parts to lighten are to use balanced slipper pistons and lightend rods as this helps reduce friction and load on the crank. and this would be true, engineering with mathmatical equations and everything, now we talking peolpe, LOV IT

is it the 4g63t engine its a common convertion going back to the early ninetizz, but crazy wat that engine iz capable of and the good newsiz i have 2. lol

how com new starter and dizzy

another very tidy job,

how fast does the car crank could be your battery, as 9v or needed on engine cranking to arm the ecu should drop no more thn 10v. also remove the throttle body and clean out the throttle plate. other things to do are check engine earthing leads and sensor earthing banks in engine bay and clean if needed. + adjust acel cable, so thr is no delay from foot to the throttle arm.

the standard starlet or corola fella. if corola i cant see how this is because the longer port runners and smaller plenum on this mani all add up to 1 thing, and its not bigger top end, thr are three different manifolds on this engine, and the earlyer corrola is the one with the hp and this mani is not the match for that engine. i will flow bench both and let you know the results but i bet a pound 2 a penny im right can tell just by looking at it. BUT am som times wrong, can you tell me the standard size of the throttle plate on this mani and message me so as not to take up room onthis topic plz, am trying to find out, because if the throttle plate is bigger that could acount for som improved mid range hp. but I've fitted seperat throttle bodies and side draft carbs befor (for big top end power and as a rule lose bottom end torque and som hp, and this manifold is the opposit of short throttle bodys, just call me the urban legand killer. also check out wikidpidier on the 4efe engine and it will repeat som of wat i just said. its all about VE my friend

hello fella, sounds like u in a bit of a mess. have u got a boost or vac gauge to hand. im thinking not. also this manifold limits and reduces top end hp (this is y thy used it to bring down hp and insurance grouping on the corrola), but gives better lower down torque off the line, thr is a better manifold the glanza turbo and corrola hatch 93 1.3 4efte and 4efe, these manifolds with slightly longer plenum chambers and shorter inlet runners have less lower down torque but still allow bigger top end hp, and put together with the corrola stock 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust mainfold and slightly advanced ignition timing can hit 100hp, a fuel presure boost valve and extrenal coil also helps. I did this mod on lees starlet and lit his face up on test drive, (just edited this cause i made a boo boo).

nice car fella and keep up the good work, good 2 see a normaly cheap outdated car modenised, wit a aggresive edge. proper lads car. not had chance 2 read the full topic mate and the answer to this question mite be in here som wer but, i would like to now wat engine and mods u av.

dildo your avator iz sexy girl. i like. helps me keep fit.

all right fella, your idle control valve is located under the throttle body and iz a thermostatic valve subject to coolant temp. very basic and do not normaly go wrong. on som of the N/A starlets this is a electric operated valve, but the throttle body still has coolant pipes to heat it up slightly. be very carefull thw if taking apart as thr are four pipes to coolant 2 air charge do not mix thm up. check your ignition timing mate. also put a vac gauge in and check manifold vac at idle with the throttle totaly closed. -15 to -24. the other valve mentioned in this topic is a vac control valve feeding a vac ressi running at the back of the mani feeding all the engines and cars vac operated systems. wich i normaly take off and plate up. throttle body with idle air valve on and without the valve

nothing wrong wit that bonnet mate seen it for my self and even touch it with my very own ?????, lovely bonnet. makes me want to feel it even more now its shiney. wats happend to the gt fella and did you get the turbo sorted.