AdamB

Tial everytime, never heard a bad word about them.

100% for the indiglo dials.

Poorly Painted spare wheel well Some blue paint mark on the door which I'm hoping will T-cut out Slight bit of surface rust on the boot line Headlight bracket rusted, but I didn't realise till I took the pic it just unbolts so I may see if I can get a new one from Toyota Excuse the state of it, its been raining since I got it and haven't had the chance to wash it Will probably get rid of most of the stickers as well, will keep the Dave B one though.

Yes mate, I'm sure thats right, been a while since I done it. Even checked it on a few online calculator things and managed to get around that sort of CR. If it has had headwork the cc in the head will be greater than 39cc, making more volume decreasing the CR and the flat top pistons with no dish at all contribute.

The Formula is : CR = (CV + CCV) / CCV Where CV - Cylinder Volume and CCV - Combustion Chamber Volume Cylinder Volume = 1517cc / 4 = 379.25cc Combustion Chamber Volume = (pi * 74.5mm2 * 2.508mm) / 4000 =10.93276 + 39cc =49.93276cc Plugging back into the formula gives : (379.25cc + 49.93276) / 49.93276cc CR = 8.595 : 1 It's the virtually flat top pistons giving it the high compression. Hope that helps mate

No probs mate. I think they are around 39cc but obviously will change if any skimming or headwork has been done.

I'll take these if they dont go mate

You need to measure the cylinder head combustion chamber as well mate. Use a syringe, 1ml = 1cc.

Picked the white 95 spec shell up last night. Big thanks to Jake (Jhandy) for his help and was pleasure to deal with. Haven't managed to get any snaps as of yet as its pissing down with rain. Only a couple of slight minor downsides to note : Headlight bracket has rusted all the way through so will need to weld on a new one Where the boot sits agains't the roof line is a small area of surface rust Spare wheel well was painted by a monkey and has flaked Not expensive repairs by any means and will just take a couple of hours to sort. All in all I'm pretty happy and will be even happier when she starts looking like a car again lol.

If the spring is too weak then yes. What brand is it?

The synchro's themselves are fairly cheap, its the labour of doing the job. Unless you fancy tackling it yourself.

I owe nothing, if I can't afford something I'll save up till I can. I'm a uni student and work 40 hours a week, so its not that much of a big deal to save really.

Too late, I've brought something else.

Yeah mate probs another ton or so.

Ah fair enough mate, the shims are a ballache so if you can do without the car let someone else have the hassle of dealing with it lol. Yeah bud building it myself but I'm prob gonna sell my wiseco pistons and pauter rods and go for something custom. Head alone is going to cost around the 4k mark including parts.

Let us know how you get on

£10k, that it? My engines costing me that alone lol. No probs mate, failing that if you can do without the car, send the head off to someone

I don't think they got a website, just like a yellowpages check thing which gives their address. I've used them before and had no problems with them at all. Theres no such thing as a budget when you own a turbo motor lol.

They are worth it if your changing the clutch at the same time, if not its a ballache just for the sake of a slightly faster rev'ing engine. Not quite £500 Matt, most are around the £250 mark.

I asked you if you wanted me to take the Tom's kit off as I would have kept it, and you told me you was going to swap it with your cousin, now its for sale?

lol a good place I know in Hampshire is Roe Engineering in Fleet, a little far for you though.

Erm any competent engineering firm should be able to do it mate. Not too sure of any round your way like lad.

Make a massive difference, however the whiteline ones do tend to rust a lot, so make sure you spend a little on treating the bar

No, they will need to be measured to get the correct valve clearence. The inlet and exhaust shims are different sizes also. The exhaust side has larger valve clearences than that of the inlet side.

Not the first one to do it mate, and certainly won't be the last! Glad you got it sorted