AdamB

If both part numbers match its likely that the new ones you have brought are a revised set. Probably very similar to each other.

I'll drop you a pm mate. Yeah the smallest housing for the 28 is a .48, but it will limit top end power. I'm going to be using the Tial v-band .64 housing. Link here buddy http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-188&Category_Code=GTX Don't think theres many people over in the UK that do the GTX turbo's, but a gt28 can be picked up from ebay cheap, or other companies such as Norris designs, owen developments do them

Not a bad price Matt considering, although with the new GTX series that comes with the billet wheel as standard and dual ball bearing its worth going for. Cheapest i've found is £820 without turbine housing.

I've just ordered a v-band manifold and v-band downpipe to suit the turbo. I haven't decided where to get the turbo from yet mate, but I have Europes largest turbo dealer 2 miles from my house Owen Developments, so will most likely get it from them if they can give me a good price.

Sounds good mate, do you know what maximum boost and power it will take and make?

I would go for the gt28, which type depends on your budget. I personally will be using the GTX28 with a custom zisco manifold v-band all the way through. I'm hoping to have full boost 1.6 bar by 3500rpm, and 2 bar for drag/track days. A lad over on TGTT is using a GT28 journal bearing turbo and is making 1.5 bar at 3900rpm untuned. A 360bhp starlet should be well into the 11's at the strip ;)

Not used a td05 but if your not making full boost till 4800rpm, that leaves you with a powerband of 2400rpm assuming you run a stock rev limit of 7200rpm. To me that is poor at best. It depends what the car is going to be used for tbh. A car with a wider powerband is a faster car ;)

It's the shitters that give them the bad rating, people buy the shitters because of the price, yet people don't know a good example when it slaps them round the face because they aren't prepared to pay.

Are you on 4e or 5e? A gt25 will respond very well, but will lack the top end punch the gt28 and 30 give. A gt30 on a 4e thats going to be used on the road to me is pointless, too much lag. a gt28 would be a much better choice for a 4e. Depending on your budget you could opt for a garrett GTX turbo which has a billet comp wheel and dual ball bearing, so will spool very fast and provide more flow than a regular journal bearing varient. A GT28 will push just over 350bhp, a GTX28 will be within touching 400bhp, both turbo's are within your goal. A lot of the lads across the seas are running near on 400bhp with stock heads, so it can be done, you just have to factor in what the car will mainly be used for.

What turbo you planning on running? As to be honest, what I would do would be check the compressor map and see how much the turbo flows. Get the head on a flow bench and test it, if the head will flow enough for the turbo, why bother spending the money? You will gain nothing at all apart from have a hole in your pocket. Even if it is decided that the head won't flow as much as the turbo can flow, atleast you know HOW much head work needs to be done, no point spending £1500 on a head if it only needs a small amount of work which can be done for £400.

Nice mate you got any pics? Most people don't want to spend the money making a hybrid, but it is worth going for.

This man knows the score! You need to factor in what the stock head flows... which to be frank it flows really well, why take metal away and increase lag when its not needed? Your not going to get any extra ponies from porting a head, all your getting is more lag. You'll only gain ponies when the stock head is restricting air flow. A standalone is well worth the money over a head, most standalones can be picked up for sub £1000 and you'll get better gains and a much better drive.

You running a td04 mate?

Water injection won't decrease lag/spool time, it will just improve the efficiency of the turbo by reducing the air temperature. Plus the water injection would have to be added before the compressor. If you have the money, a billet comp wheel as its lighter. Or nitrous Or a bigger engine.

A breather filter on top of the valve cover will still be venting to atmosphere. It will do the job yes, but I would personally have a setup like Sam explained. A catch can with two ports only, one from the breather to the can, then from the can to the inlet manifold. Won't do any harm its just air.

Was there any oil in the intercooler/pipes or decat when you remove the turbo?

Anyone got any pics of sticker number plates? Thinking of putting one on the bottom lip of my Toms bumper.

If the crank was reground it is most likely a small mistake on the incorrect bearing sizes used. That's just me assuming.

Mine seems to have quite a glint to it, but I have never seen 2 different shades of 205 with differents amount of glitter in. Would it not be an idea to just get him to get two tester pots and just spray each on a piece of alloy then you can take it back to your car and compare?

Carbon deposits in the engine are very bad, and tbh are probably best left alone. Breaking off a deposit can create a hot spot in the cylinder and will cause pre-ignition, destroying your engine in very few miles. Unless the engine is going to be stripped, cleaned and rebuilt I would leave it alone.

Probably headgasket mate, they are all over the place. Did he do a wet test? Dropping oil down the bores to eliminate the rings.

If the car has always been run on 99 fuel or higher there won't be much deposits.

Nothing wrong with knife edging, but it is wise to get it heat treated and then crack and pressure tested to ensure that there is going to be no long lasting effects.

Theres no doubt you do make more power with cams, inlet and whatever else, but it also changes the powerband. As you initially said that spool is your main concern, its best to have a longer powerband.

If spool is your biggest concern I wouldn't bother with cams, excessive porting, aftermarket intakes and throttlebodies. You can always try the dyno without these things, then if more power becomes your concern, you can always upgrade. Always best to start off at the bottom and work your way up, no point spending needless money on cams, manifolds etc for them not to work, you'll only lose money on them at resale. I'm in the same position and thats what i'll be doing.