AdamB

^^^ Thats Genius!

Quaife is best for a daily car, or a car thats used more often than a weekend/show car. Noise free and requires no maintenence at all!

Braided oil feed sold. Price drop on other items.

Dom doesn't come on here often so i'll answer for him lol. It made 210bhp at the fly @ 0.9 bar mate. Its running Tein coilovers on the front and a shock and spring setup at the rear. I know Dom personally and hes a good lad, car is in very good condition and goes well, could do with some more boost lol.

Like I said, its ok to use on cheap shitty turbo's that are readily available, but I wouldn't want to be spending £700 replacing the CHRA on my garrett for the sake of not running a BOV. It is noticeable different if your running higher boost setups, running a stock-mild setup you won't really notice anything other than a different noise. They are there so that when you let off the throttle taking a bend, then get back on it again, the turbo is not stalling.

What an ass, I'll have to check what thread size my sensor is, I've got STRI racing gauges, I'm pretty sure they are 1/8 PT. As said you can get them tapped to suit a different size easily enough. Edit... Just checked my manual and the water temp thread size is 1/8 PT. SO this will fit STRI sensors Thanks Azz!

The whole idea of running a BOV mate ;) They wern't invented to sound good, they were invented to do a job!

Sorry but... Previous Owners 11. Thats enough to nearly make me cry

Running without a DV isn't a problem, although on more expensive turbos like garrett,precision etc I personally would because it puts less strain on the bearings when air tries rushing back through the turbo and stalling the compressor.

Thanks buddy

Offers

Tial

Damn I was going to get this

Let us know if that fits ok mate, looking to fit mine in the same place ;)

From what i've seen/experienced a force induction engine produces peak power with an AFR between 11.4-12.2 and an N/A engine between 12-12.6. Although it will vary slightly due to every engine taking more/less ignition.

I never once said anything bad about you being a mechanic Sam, but you even said so yourself you have never mapped a car before? How can you go around giving advice to people that is likely to ruin their engine? Yes maybe Charl's car runs fine with an AFR of 13:1 WOT, but the chances are not EVERY engine likes this. Every engine should be checked with a wideband and det cans, and even then this isn't exactly perfect! To get an exact sweet tune every sensor the engine uses needs to be datalogged to ensure its reading correctly at all sorts of engine loads.

Theres more to it than just having the "perfect" Stoichiometric lambda. An N/A engine will be totally different to a force induction engine, for starters it has a higher compression ratio, the higher the ratio the higher the octane rating needs to be to keep det away. Also an N/A engine is only able to draw air in at 14.7 psi or atmospheric pressure on the intake stroke. Even then if you take into account the resistance to flow before the air even gets into the cylinder your N/A engine will only be sucking in around 12 psi of air. This is around a 10% drop in peak power! Running an AFR of 13 on a turbo engine at WOT to me is ridiculous, your already increasing boost pressure, moving away from the turbochargers efficiency envelope heating the air at this point, plus the heat of resistance to flow. Without injecting a "safe" amount of fuel cylinder pressures are going to be high, and are more likely to induce det or even headgasket failure. Every engine will respond differently to X amount of fuel and Y amount of ignition, every batch of fuel you place in your fuel tank will be different. One engine may perform well at an AFR of 12 or another at 11.6. No offence but I know people that have been a mechanic for 25 years, a mechanic is totally different from a tuner, and for this reason I wouldn't let them build me a race spec engine.

As above mate, take it somewhere else and get them to send the bill ;)

8J rims fit, but will rub, they can hold 225 tyre. Better off with a 7J rim that will take a 205 tyre. How come you wanna run a wider tyre anyway?

No problem mate, shipped out today 1st class, should be with you shortly

A 2 way will give more understeer, but will be locked both on acceleration and deceleration. I thought the TRD's were 1.5 way?

And running too lean you will burn out the exhaust valve seats, maybe even drop a valve head. Then you'll probably destroy piston rings, and manifolds, turbo's.

Samco's sold

Aslong as its well tolerenced, not too tight should be good to go straight off the bat mate. However everyone has their own method of running in, so its best to choose which ever you prefer

You can use a boost controller to help spooling a turbo by the gain feature. I would stick a 1 bar spring in as you can always switch a boost controller off and back down to 1 bar