AdamB

What boost controller you using?

Its hard to say without taking measurements of the piston volume and the combustion chamber volume as it depends if the head/blocks been skimmed before. But you'll be fine! Much better to have higher CR anyway. You don't really need to be worrying about CR's on that kinda setup

Everything you need to know in the manual http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

I know that feeling!

just the usual as you would any other car. Check for any smoke, check the breather on top of the valve cover. Check under the boot carpet for any signs of damage from an accident, check fluids etc.

Use diagram above.

If your on a budget just get hold of a set of GT seats. Comfy, supportive and look sporty without being a brand name and paying a serious price tag for them.

Big problem though. They say "Recaro" and not "Bride" They are a fucking steal for sure! I'd buy 2 sets at that price.

If its an FHE it should have the longer duration and higher lift cams. Here's the thermostat housing : Sensors 2 & 3 are something to do with Air con. Sensors 1 is for the ECU, sensor 4 is for the dash temp gauge

I would try the ignition timing with a timing light mate, that would be one cause if not set correctly. As Mikey said depending on the sensor unplugged from the thermo housing is another. If you use 4EFE, 4EFTE, 5EFE cams time it up to 4E marks. If you use 5EFHE cams use the 5E mark, this is because the cam specs are different, the opening and closing of the valves are different, only by a few degrees though, hence why I don't think its your problem. Personally if its a rebuilt motor, I would have dialed them in using a DTI gauge and an adjustable cam pulley to get the cams spot on.

Yep as said, you shouldn't need to. Some of the clips maybe in awkward places though.

Have you checked ignition timing? I assume you swapped the thermostat housing for the 4EFTE one? You can try swapping the valve timing, but I don't think it will make much difference.

You have to remove all the piping and airbox that comes off the turbo compressor and goes to the passenger side firewall. Then just put your silicone pipe on the turbo with a jubilee or some other clamp, put the filter in the other end of the silicone pipe and job done

Normally they have a little push fit clip behind them. Grab some needle nose pliers and pull it off, then when you refit it put the clip back on first then push the winder on

I tend to use 2 or 3 passes of a cereal box to make a good thickness gasket mate

I would use GT seats and GT rails. I think 3 out of the 4 bolts fit straight in, but its only one part of the bracket that doesn't quite line up for the last bolt.

There speedvision copies.

They need a little modding but nothing too serious I don't think.

Drop me a PM Jamie

This. Originals are expensive for a reason. They do look ok, and there are some very good reps out there.

Or light a fag and put the butt end around all the pipes, if it tokes on it then you've found your leak. Do be cautious of any fuel lines and fuel vapor though!

Forgot to mention that I also have a HKS SSQV BOV which I will include in the sale. It's one of the very first versions and one of the best as it doesn't sound like a mouse. It is used, the paint has started flaking off but still works, doesn't leak and is also adjustable. I will split the kit if I have buyers for everything also

Yeah I see mate. Be good to see what those can do without the restrictors! Although I think they are mainly built for spool seeing as they are limited to like 300bhp. Spool on this on a 4E 1 bar will be had around 3700rpm, on a 5E its around 3400rpm.

Turbo alone is circa £2000, its £1400 + VAT for the basic turbo from Owen's, that's without a turbine housing, without the metal caged race bearings and without the 360 degree thrust clamps. I was thinking about getting it made top mounted, might be possibly just by rotating the head flange, but a new downpipe will need to be made, and I'm not sure if the turbo would come anywhere near the powersteering pump. I wanna try something a bit special that's the only reason for sale really mate. If it doesn't go then I'll just keep it. I do understand its a lot of money and in most cases more than most people paid for their car, but chances are if you can't afford it you don't need it anyway lol.

I know this but essentially its the same thing, by altering low and high end torque ranges.