richardc9052

Picked up an FHE engine to do just this but with oem parts and not forged Still.. a perfect guide !!

They all work in the same way. wiring is different on some and others have bad press for silly reasons. but in the end they all interupt the ignition system. The reason Bee*R's are thought to be "worse" is because you can control the gain which means you can change the length and/or frequency of the interruption to the signal. Which means that you can get bigger bangs with the bee*R.

I made my own kit that activated at 4psi boost. Had the nozzle set about 3-4 inches down a straight pipe from the turbo inlet. Also had an LED to tell me when the pump was active. The first thing i noticed was spool times. as soon as that LED came on the boost gauge shot up.. The power increase was very noticeable. (not as relevant to this as i was running a diesel) I ended up running 2.5 and then i upped it to 3 bar of boost.. people had reported problems running 2 bar on these engines without an FMIC and i was running stock cooler at 3 bar with just the w/m by the way car was the old Vaux 1.7td Isuzu engine

i said ill be fitting a 1e pulley so may have a 4e pulley for sale... but now theres a queue as others got it and pmd me lol

I might have one soon, ill be fitting a 1e pulley as i dont have a/c or power steering and they are a hell of a lot lighter Ill let you know when i do

Well, if you have a thermostat you dont need to worry about covering it and if the case ever arose where the oil did get too hot, the thermostat would open and cool it down for you

Use a thermostat and it will be perfect

I can't help but... Wow! Your ruining two sets of injectors! This is an awesome project Good luck

Tein do -57mm on front and 50mm on back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-Turbo-EP91-Tein-S-Tech-Lowering-Springs-57mm-Front-50mm-Rear-/230820487637?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AStarlet&hash=item35bdf921d5

you can get 60mm lowering springs on camskill

i know where there are two... one with the cover, one without. not sure if he would sell though.. pm me a good offer and ill try him with it

you get what you pay for.. i personally would ask for more than that for that low mileage. Get a compression test done at least thought

It won't be staying n/a for long.. Just need it to run na without it blowing up for a few weeks..

Yeah I'm just wondering because I might be getting a 5efhe or a 5efe. Not confirmed which he has but if it will run on 4efe ecu for now that would be great. I have an emanage to get it mapped if needed

Does it run if you change over all the ignition and other bits and pieces from the 4e onto the 5e? If it does run, does it run well/ good enough to drive? Is there a 5e ecu that I can just swap around without changing wiring but keeping sensors and ignition setup?

I have a sweet gen 1 4efe to go with that package ;)

the tubular exhaust manifolds come on gen1 e10 corolla's

I just used a random VHT paint..

Anyone know?? I'm sure I read this works in a build thread on here.. Can't remember which thread now either!! :annoyed:

I don't want to change mine. I am just interested about the civic rear suspension fitting a starlet.. Much cheaper option for the future lol

Ive been told rear struts of a certain model civic will fit. Im just wondering how true this is and if it is, which model fits? Thanks!

I have TRD shocks and springs. havent driven my car with them yet but ive been in another car with them and they are unreal! Very comfortable but still very firm when you need it.

i have one of those intake mani's

Yep they are the same and one flows enough to run two 4eftes rich ;)

What kind of spool rpm on the vf8??