funny onion

Mate! Bad times! Feel for you Just as a side note, an afr reading alone doesn't mean an engine is running "safe" because it's hitting 11 on full boost. It's still critically important that the ignition timing is correct through the rev range. Mine was happily rich on full boost and it still melted all the pistons because it ran hot for a number of reasons. Anyways hope you get that 5e in it soon and get it back running

Oh my god! Want these for the ep80! Haha if I hadn't just paid for the third remap of the year and bought a new saddle for the horse and a set of work wheels I'd have these do me a deal rob!

Had a great day with some great people. Shame about the fight. Glad we left before it kicked off.

Me and Sam will be there I think

Congratulations

Where are you based?

I've always used toyota ones and never had a problem. Hear more horror stories and problems about Athena ones than about genuine toyota ones.

Mine is like this. It doesn't like starting from hot either. I think it's a coolant temp sensor issue

Side exit

Love the snaps of mine! Cheers Lol thanks!

That's all I can tell you there's just that sign in his windscreen. I can go try and get you a number?

Kid from micra owners selling the rods above at jae

I'm 22 with 5 years no claims. Was with sky last year with all mods declared (td04, emanage blue, cage, seats etc etc) and was paying £1200 third party. Got the renewal through and the premium was £1020. Called green light and got it down to £650 fully comp with protected no claims with even more mods. Get a GT!

Thanks phil And Alex I would love those wheels haha we'll see how much money I have left after jae

Yeah I need to do a then and now to compare spec and how much if a shed it was with the standard ride height and rusty front wing and stuff. I'd love some nice jdm wheels and I do like ns2's but 99% of jdm wheels are absolutely gash in my opinion. But I'm always on the look for a better set. Got 4 sets now haha.

Woah looks like it could sheer off!

Lol I may have another 4 point cage up for grabs soon but it has a harness bar so you wouldn't get people in the back seats with it in. Cheers guys shame it won't have the spoiler on for jae because its in the process of being sprayed oh well

It’s been forever since I last updated this thread :S There’s a lot that’s happened, good and bad. Some of you will already know the stories haha. Where to start… The bottom end knocking was the start of a whole load of engine disasters. About 2-3 months after having it mapped at TD Sam was driving it and raced a jaguar XK8 along a dual carriageway on the way to Bridlington. Starlet was right on the jag’s arse and pulling well. Then when he let off for a roundabout there was a definite misfire. Pulled straight into a lay-by off the roundabout and it was running like a sack of shit. Popped the bonnet and had a look. Vaccum in the rocker breather but no smoke from anywhere at that moment in time. Pulled each lead off and number 4 was the most obvious culprit. Gave it a rev and plumes of smoke out the exhaust. So I thought it could be cracked piston or ring. Fair enough, bit pissed off but it happens with these cars. So called a friend with a flat bed and within a few hours it was sat in the lock up looking sorry for itself. Compression test revealed a whopping 0 on number 4. So we put sam’s engine in it as I had my uni exams and needed the car and sam has the vitara to run around in and his starlet was off the road at the time anyway. Once the swap was complete I took apart the knackered engine to see what had failed. Turned out it had melted all 4 pistons and well and truly melted number 4 (I keep it in the car as a souvenir if anyone wants a look haha). Needless to say I was pissed off. I’m not having a bash at anyone but after just forking out over £600 for emange and remap I think anyone would be pissed off to say the least. Sam’s engine was in and running within 24 hours of the incident, and while everything was out we put my LSD box in too. Then the rebuild began… We both have spare blocks/heads etc so they wern’t an issue, but it cost a bloody arm and a leg to buy a full acl bearing kit, full Toyota gasket set, timing kit, water pump, oil pump, have the crank/block machined etc etc. If I added on the cost of the emange and remap onto the rebuild costs I could EASILY have a forged engine by now. And to top it off I had to exchange the big end shells for oversize after machining and they were “lost” on the way back to TD so I had to fork out for another set. Some pics of one of the pistons and bores; The block and all pistons were scrap, and I scrapped the rods too because they had clearly been hot etc- they had melted piston material all down them. The only thing worth keeping was the head and the crank. The spec of the rebuilt engine is; -Completely stripped head/block and acid washed before/after machining. -Crank regrind and polish (0.25 oversize) -Bores crosshatch honed -Head checked for warp (was straight so no need to skim) -Full ACL bottom end bearings -Replaced both crank seals with original Toyota seals -Full genuine toyota engine gasket set (including head gasket) -Genuine Toyota oil pump/water pump -New timing kit -Head completely stripped and washed -Replaced valve stem oil seals -Valves lapped back in and reshimmed -Pistons/rods from a spare engine (all checked for roundness etc) -Hastings piston rings Meanwhile, I still wanted to know why the old engine failed as bad as it did. So I decided to move away from forum traders so to speak and get the opinion of a friend we’ve known for a few years now- Will Hinchcliffe, the genius behind Rob H’s car. Got it booked in and took the short journey over to see him and he was brilliant- checked every single component you would want checking before he even got the dyno packs out. Checked the fuel pump, ingnition system, compression test, bore scope down each cylinder, inspected the spark plugs, checked the wiring to the emange and injector loom etc. Pressure tested the coolant system etc etc. His findings were as follows; -Base fuel pressure was set far too high -Fuel pump was cavitating under load (due to the above) -Injectors were maxed out drastically after around 5000rpm -Base timing wasn’t set right Any/all of the above could have caused the pistons to melt at full boost. So although I was understandably fuming, at least we had identified the issues and could now set about sorting them out. Lowered the base fuel pressure, timed it up properly. Got it sat on the dyno packs but whie it was warming up etc we wanted to see the map that was on the emange from TD. Surprise surprise they had locked the ecu so we weren’t able to see what was on there. Oh well not to worry- wiped it and began to map it. Took a little while but the great thing was I was able to stand next to will the whole time he mapped it and watch what he was doing on the screen. He explained exactly what he was doing and showed me the difference in power curves etc by changing the timing. Was really interesting and beneficial to be able to see the whole process. But as I couldn’t sort the issue of the injectors being too small he had to do the best he can to make it safe and told me not to drive it past 5000rpm. Ive since got some 460cc injectors and I’m in the process of getting it booking back in for the map tweaked to suit. It made 157 at the wheels which isn’t a lot I know but I think the figures that appear from other dynos these days are getting to be a bit of a joke so I don’t care about what it is on paper as long as I enjoy driving it- and I do J although I’m looking forward to getting the injectors fitted and mapped. I’ll get a photo of the dyno print out at some point. So engine wise that’s how it stands currently (and the LSD box is finally on yay ). In other news, the following has also been fitted/done; -cusco 4 point roll cage (with back seats still in) -D2 coilovers (and 4 wheel alignment) -Whiteline adjustable rear anti roll bar -Cusco C-pillar bar -Cades eros 15inch wheels -New handbrake cables -Rear callipers stripped and rebuilt with new seal kit -Rear brake pads -All brake pipes under the car replaced for copper pipe -New track rod ends -New bottom ball joints when the kit was finally complete; cades fitted; cage; For anyone wanting a starlet that handles like a boss I’d recommend a cage. The BEST handling mod on it by far! It really does handle like a babe now. Plans for the future are polybush some stuff, get a nice set of gauges and fit my triple pillar pod. Top mounted turbo kit. Forged engine at some point in the future… Cleethropes meet; and a cheeky rolling shot of adam (pick1) in his mint gt on the way back from MFN;

Haynes manuals are terrible and I doubt there's one for a gt turbo the closest one will be for the ep80. I would say there is no wiring etc for an airbag. Never seen one with an airbag anyways.

My advance came with the momo interior including steering wheel. It didn't have an airbag and I've never found any wiring etc.

What a laugh. Trying to sell a £6500 car with one photo. No pics of engine bay, running gear etc.

How have these not sold? If they were a bit cheaper I might have to acquire a 5th set of wheels

I was torn between purple and gun metal grey. I've gone for nissan LP2 which is the skyline midnight purple and its come out gorgeous. But I'm not sprayer and have no Clue what I'm doing to be honest so it will never be a show winner haha. I also love the teal blue that toyota auris comes in.

Same, if you were closer I'd have snapped this up already

It seems the more money spent on the car the less it gets driven. A lot of the high powered starlets do seem to spend most of their lives under a car cover or at the tuners. The only difference on the road between 250bhp and 300+bhp is a load of cash. In reality there's not a lot in it. This has been proven by quarter mile times etc. and I don't just mean starlets either.