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4efe SWAP to 4efte in Corolla E11 1998


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2 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Sorry about delay on the information, I'm at a very important stage of my work and it's taking all my attention. I'll get you the info required this weekend. 

No worries. Take your time  When I collect the last details I can plan to swap with my mechanic and finally find the engine and the extra parts you suggested.

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On 10/8/2020 at 5:01 PM, Sam44 said:

 

I have a wiring diagram here that provides the additional wiring and ECU pin outs to make a harness that will plug and play to the ep82 4efte factory ems unit with some pin swaps


a few questions I still need answers to 

Don’t forget to give me this info to add the my swap project.do I need to replace the 4efe gearbox clutch to the 212 mm you suggested when swapping tto the 4efte? DoI have modify the 4efte manifold and turbo down-pipe to avoid hitting the Corolla crossmembers? How? How do I have to modify the 4efte front and rear mount to fit in and fit the 4efe gearbox? How will I adapt the  4efe inlet to the 4efte throttlebody? How will I move the 4efe air box sensor th the 4efte throttlebody? Where exactly should it go? Ho will I adapt the 4efe electronic ignition system to the 4efte engine and how will it run with the 4efte ECU I will install with the new engine? Any pictures and diagrams to make it happen smoothly? How will I adapt the 4efe steering wheel to fit oil channel to the turbo etc? 

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my approach for the best & cheapest 4efte swap into a e11 corolla. for good reliable power of around 190hp 

parts needed:

complete 4efte engine out of a later glanza 98 model, with all attachments, inlet, exhaust+turbo, flywheel, and much better ct9b turbo. use all the engine mounts and bracket off the e11 4efe fitted to the 4efte (this should be only 1x engine mount on the right side chassis member all the others are attached to the e11 gearbox and will not need touching.  

212mm gt turbo/glanza/toyota (original clutch unit will take around 200hp). 

new 4efe e11 oil pump and seals, including the  crank front main oil seal  fitted to the 4efte engine before install with new cam belt if required. 

crank rear main oil seal. (serviceable item, they go hard after a certain period of time) 

acl standard size big end bearing kit. (tuning developments sell these high load bearing that are a must for today's fast dyno ecu mappers )  

4efte decat pipe section of the exhaust.

full aftermarket exhaust system. 

aftermarket fuel pump (walbro).

aftermarket piggyback ecu. like the ecu master det3 or aem unit. some of these piggy backs are designed for N/A or turbo use, so make sure you get the correct 1, also some of these have an additional pwm control table (built in boost control) all you need is a pwm valve wired into the control unit.   

universal intercooler piping kit, intercooler core to fit the e11. 

hks ct9 adjustable turbo actuator. 

air filter and piping. 

parts i would get but not required: a good electronic boost controller, boost gauge, exhaust gas temp gauge. 

 

parts that will require fabrication:

the piggy back control unit wires into the 4efe engine loom requiring around 6 wires. (no 4efte ecu or loom required). the dizless e11 system and ems is far better/faster than the 4efte distributor type.  

e11 4efe inlet manifold to house the 4efte inlet temp sensor or the 4efe original inlet temp sensor. (if the 4efte sensor is going to be used the plug for the sensor will be needed).  keep the 4efe throttle body, this will hit the required 190hp. 

4efte lower power steering bracket/mount to house the 4efe e11 power steering pump. 

4efte decat pipe, to avoid the e11 front engine mount and front to rear engine mount support beam/cross-member. 

full exhaust system 2.5inch to 3inch with high-flow cat for the best performance.  

extended lamba sensor wiring to reach to the new decat pipe position. (use the e11 original lamba/o2 sensor). 

ill put up detailed info of how id carry out all of the above modes. there should be no other plug swaps required. all other 4efe sensors will just swap into the 4efte engine and work fine. i will also put up info of how to wire in the det3 piggy back. 

universal inter-cooler pipe kit cut to size and cleaned out before use. 

mount inter-cooler core. 

porting the exhaust manifold out.

porting/opening up the ct9b waste gate port.

air filter kit and piping. 

things ill have to look further into on this swap. 

the 4efte distributor/head mounting point, is there a cap/cover on the 4efe e11 to blank this off and mount the dizless coils in the distributors place.

i could do with you having a look here on yours to answer this question please. 

 

EVERYTHING ELSE WILL SWAP OVER AND TAKE THE POWER. 

ecu master det3 tuner how to wire into the 4efe dizless system. wiring diagrams wire colours and ecu pin outs to come.

 

how to install the 4efte intake sensor or the original 4efe e11 intake temp sensor into the corolla intake manifold. 

e11 intake manifold modded.jpeg

you can see the added 4efte intake air temp sensor and threaded mount that is wielded into the e11 intake manifolds plenum chamber.   

the sensor is a 2pin plug and can be wired in either using the toyota original plug or 2x small female spade terminals (speaker terminals)

the original wire will need extending in order to reach the new sensor position. 

 

option 2: the original sensor mounted into the same point  

this picture is how ive mounted the original 4efe ep91 plastic air temp sensor into the ep91 intake manifold. thew the manifolds are different the same approach can be used just mount it in the e11 manifold in the same place as the previous picture of the 4efte sensor. use sealant or and a additional sealing Oring.   

4efe intake temp sensor.jpg

inside photo

4efe intake temp sensor inside.jpg

picture of the difference between the 2x sensors, these sensors use the same resistance to temp operational scale.

difference in sensor.jpg

 

lamba sensor position in the 4efte decat pipe.

this pipe is bolted to the turbos exhaust side outlet and drops down the front of the engine to the exhaust system. 

decat pipe.jpg

another option here is to cap/blank off this port and leave the lamba sensor unplugged leaving the ems ecu to run in open loop, but a de-cated exhaust system will be needed, also the engine warning light might be on permanently. . 

also this is the pipe that will require fabrication to avoid the corollas front engine mount that is positioned and attached to the gearbox bellhousings front edge. this will foul the down section of this 4efte decat  pipe. 

 

the 4efte power steering modification. 

 

racket.jpg

this normally will come with the 4efte engine.  

this bracket will foul the underside of the e11 4efe power steering pump, and  the adjuster hole seen above does not line up with the e11 4efe pump bolt hole. the e11 pump bolt hole is around 1.5inch further in and also closer to the engine. 

the 4efte bracket above is required to be used because the 4efte oil filter housing steps off towards this bottom power steering bracket. this bracket gives the oil filter housing the additions room needed. 

now what i would do is to cut the bracket in the picture above so as to allow the e11 4efe pump to move freely and not catch this bracket allowing adjustment (it stops the pumps belt to be removed/replaced, so downwards movement). were the cut is required is at the tip of the adjustment hole you can see in the picture above. around 1inch from the tip of the adjustment hole (just anuff to remove/replace the belt). 

this allows the e11 pump anuff room to move to remove/replace the belt when required. 

now an additional bracket is needed to be made/fabricated (very simple) in order to line up the e11 4efe pump hole with this 4efte adjustment bracket hole. 

this is a 3inch in length peace of inch wide flat steel bar with 1x 12mm hole at either end (2xholes in total) now welde 2x 12mm nuts together, now wield them to the flat bar inline with 1 of the drilled 12mm holes (so when a bolt is fitted/screwed into the 12mm bolts it passes threw the hole in the flat bar)

now bolt it all together the nut/nuts end of the flat bar bracket attaches to the rear face (oil filter side) of the 4efte bracket in the picture above, the 2x wielded nuts and the bar take up the space needed to alight the new flat bar bracket with the e11 4efe power steering pump. 

fit the belt, have the new bracket (flat bar) fitted, but loose, place a heal bar under the pump so as to pri it upwards and put tension onto the belt, now just tighten up the new bracket bolts at either end.    

 IF YOU COULD GET PICTURES OF THIS PROCESS TAKEN IT WILL HELP THE LADS DOING 4EFE+T CONVERTIONS ON THERE UK EP91 EP80.

THIS ALSO WORKS ON THESE 4EFE VEHICLES/FACTORY POWER STEERING PUMPS. 

 

 

Edited by Sam44
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14 hours ago, Sam44 said:

the 4efte distributor/head mounting point, is there a cap/cover on the 4efe e11 to blank this off and mount the dizless coils in the distributors place

Should I send you another picture for the corner or this is enough? Is the cap cover the plastic boxes on the side?

i found this  maybe it helps 

 

Starlet Glanza V 1998 4efte

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1998/starlet/ep91-agmqy/4_121150_006_/tool-engine-fuel/1901_ignition-coil-spark-plug

 Corolla E11 1998 4efe

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/corolla-hb-lb/ee111r-agmdkw/3_153540_038_/tool-engine-fuel/1901_ignition-coil-spark-plug

 

E0B39338-9AAC-4EC6-BFDE-223078E584EE.jpeg

Edited by Frankieflowers
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10 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

This is the original 4efte pipe? How will I have to fabricate the modified pipe? Isn’t there any on the market? Any drawing or measures?

rather that it droping straight down it will have to bend back on itself  by around  45 deg then drop straight down. this pipe is only a small diameter, some of these are quite a large diameter. with this pipe being quite small you might get away with just cutting away some of the cross member lip/edge. 

this is not the 4efte original pipe. the original pipe is a catalytic converter which will defiantly not fit in. this is the aftermarket decat pipe.   

Edited by Sam44
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10 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Should I send you another picture for the corner or this is enough? Is the cap cover the plastic boxes on the side?

i found this  maybe it helps 

 

Starlet Glanza V 1998 4efte

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1998/starlet/ep91-agmqy/4_121150_006_/tool-engine-fuel/1901_ignition-coil-spark-plug

 Corolla E11 1998 4efe

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/corolla-hb-lb/ee111r-agmdkw/3_153540_038_/tool-engine-fuel/1901_ignition-coil-spark-plug

 

E0B39338-9AAC-4EC6-BFDE-223078E584EE.jpeg

yep thanks. it does bolt in place of the distributor and seal the head. 

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On 11/23/2020 at 8:39 AM, Sam44 said:

this is not the 4efte original pipe. the original pipe is a catalytic converter which will defiantly not fit in. this is the aftermarket decat pipe.   

Gotcha. Thanks. What about the manifold? How should it be cut Nd welded to avoid hitting the 4efe gearbox front mount? Do you have pictures?

my mechanic asked me how should he modify the steering wheel oil distributor to get an extra exit for the turbo pipe to the turbo? Is this correct? How ca dot4 oil work with the turbo? Can you please explain. Do you have pictures of that part? Thanks

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27 minutes ago, Frankieflowers said:

Gotcha. Thanks. What about the manifold? How should it be cut Nd welded to avoid hitting the 4efe gearbox front mount? Do you have pictures?

my mechanic asked me how should he modify the steering wheel oil distributor to get an extra exit for the turbo pipe to the turbo? Is this correct? How ca dot4 oil work with the turbo? Can you please explain. Do you have pictures of that part? Thanks

The only thing I can think of with the brakes would be the servo assistance pipe to the inlet. Just use your original pipe to the original E11 inlet manifold. This will work just fine there will be a inline check valve to stop boost pressure entering the servo diaphram. Dot4 fluid will be good for road use. The rest of the turbo lines come with the 4efte engine. 

It's just the decat pipe that might hit the E11 4efe front engine mount as explained above. 

Edited by Sam44
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9 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

my mechanic asked me how should he modify the steering wheel oil distributor to get an extra exit for the turbo pipe to the turbo? Is this correct? How ca dot4 oil work with the turbo? Can you please explain. Do you have pictures of that part? Thanks

I think you have not understood your mechanic. Or he is playing a joke on you with this question.

The turbo is already fed with engine oil from the oil filter housing and returns to the oil pan on the 4efte as standard.

With all due respect if your mechanic can't understand how to fit the engine with all the information that is here already you should perhaps look for a different mechanic. One that fabricates parts and does engine swaps, makes exhausts etc. A "normal" mechanic is not the best choice for this project.

Just my opinion, don't mean any disrespect to anyone professional or otherwise.

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Why we Port grind out (porting) the original exhaust manifold and turbo waste gate.

As I have mentioned in the previous post " in order to hit 190 hp" these modifications are needed. 

CLAYMORE build thread recently includes an excellent write up of this process with detailed pictures of where the grinding/porting out should be done. This is to reduce exhaust back pressure and help temps and proformance. 

ill put up pictures of a ported out waste gate port on the ct9 turbo I have some here from a hyb turbo. This is done because very quickly after only afew 4efte engine breathing mods (introduction of a fmic and aftermarket air filter+piping) all standard 4efte ct9 engines start to experience boost creep (the point boost pressure starts to rise and the turbos waste gate can not regulate/reduce it). This in turn leads to fuel cut on the 4efte ems.

 

Edited by Sam44
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1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

As I have mentioned in the previous post " in order to hit 190 hp" these modifications are needed. 

CLAYMORE build thread recently includes an excellent write up of this process with detailed pictures of where the grinding/porting out should be done. This is to reduce exhaust back pressure and help temps and proformance. 

 

Edited by Claymore
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13 hours ago, Claymore said:

I think you have not understood your mechanic. Or he is playing a joke on you with this question.

 

My bad I am the one seeking for information without having the knowledge to understand everything you guys tell me. This is why I was confused about when you were telling me that the Corolla steering pump has to be kept because it is better. Reading through the tips you posted I thought I read some thing about modifying the steering pump for piping. My bad. I agree with you about getting a mechanic who builds parts. There is one who does jobs like this but it is insanely expensive. My boy has been preparing Lotus cars for race. He is good but unfortunately right now he doesn’t have a four shop to do all the custom work. All I am saying is that it is harder here to find a shop with someone with all the passion to do a work like this. If I spend so much time on these forums is because I love it and I want to learn from the best to do a cool project but I don’t have the resources to pay the big shots. I will get the best from white you gave me here and will try to make it happen. 

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@Sam44 I have a question. You told me that I can swap the 4efe with the 4efte without removing loom and ECU. This said, what are the wires and sensors that will plug and plan and which ones will have to be modified and how? Which connectors would I have to buy and where? What about the fuse box wiring? Will it be easy to connect all the wires to the new engine? Trying to figure out if it would be easier to swap the full  loom/ECU and fuse box as well Thanks

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On 11/25/2020 at 2:43 AM, Sam44 said:

The only thing I can think of with the brakes would be the servo assistance pipe to the inlet. Just use your original pipe to the original E11 inlet manifold.

Again my bad I got confused. Somehow I thought that the servo box would need an extra exit for a pipe to the turbo. Nonsense. So the Starlet Ganza V servo pump is different compared to the Corolla one?? If so, how should I modify it and why? Thanks.

Edited by Frankieflowers
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On 11/22/2020 at 11:01 AM, Sam44 said:

aftermarket piggyback ecu

Hey Sam. What happens when I wire the 4efte engine in the Corolla and connect the 4EFE ECU. It shouldn’t work right? You suggested to get the Piggyback wired to the fe ECU. In this case how will I be able to drive to the shop that does ECU mapping? It’s like 20 miles drive.

The second option would be to spend more time to put the 4efte ECU in the Corolla and drive to the mapping shop with the piggyback disconnected and connect it when I’m safe at the shop? What do you suggest? 

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sorry for late reply. 

there are 2x options here.

the first option is what i would do and get the car taken to the mappers on a flat bed truck. 

the 2nd option is to leave the turbos waste gate fully open. this needs to stay open so try and use a spring to hold/keep this open. this is done so the engine does not build boost pressure. now use a fuel pressure regulator (a good one, sard, fse makes are good units) and set the fuel pressure to 2.1bar  this will drop the fuelling on the 4efte injectors close to were it should be and make it derivable. 

when you get to the mappers connect the turbos waste gate and up your fuel pressure to 3bar (standard pressure), plus replace your spark plugs at this point with new heat range 7 copper cores (they will be soot fouled. make sure your not running a catalytic converter in the exhaust system at this point, have this installed at a later date. you  can also set the fuelling on the map to standard which is explained on the video bellow. (this requires the fuel pressure to be set at standard pressure, but turbo waste gate left open so it does not build boost pressure)

when you drive to the mappers make sure you do not put any load the engine. 

the brake servos are different in looks but the same performance. 

the engine sensor are explained i previous the how i would do this post above. 

 

Quote

 

 

Edited by Sam44
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@Sam44 @Claymore 

Found this great guy from Greece who owns a Turborolla (4efte swap) he built in 2015.

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/wgxyvdq/

Here’s what he told me.

“The 4efte has the same mounts as the 4efe so it doesn’t need anything else. You can keep your gearbox but it's wise to get the turbo version from the Starlet.

Also you'll need the ECU and the original wiring. The tricky part here is to match your wiring with the original. 

*Bonus tip. Swap the 4efe oil pan with the 4efte so you have better clearance for the exhaust. 

Some upgrades that might help you are to get rid of the stock intercooler and put a front mount one and a catback exhaust. With these minor upgrades the engine will produce roughly 150bhp.

I kept the Corolla steering pump but I used the starlet bracket. I don't know if the stock downpipe hits the front mount, it might, I right away installed a custom downpipe and full exhaust that a friend of mine helped me fabricate. .

I kept the Corolla original oil pipes.

You must get the steering pump brackets from the Starlet that will fit the Corolla A/C pump. Otherwise the turbocharger will hit the pump with the original Corolla brackets”.

Edited by Frankieflowers
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