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My Troublesome Turbocharged Terror


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Thought I'd put a spec listup since there isn't one so:

Engine/Turbo:

Autofixed FMIC

Apexi Filter (Mounted behind the grill)

Road Runner Manifold

Blitz Decat

Custom straight through ss 2.5 inch cat back exhaust

HKS Actuator

NGK Iridium Spark Plugs

NGK Blue Leads

Walbro Fuel Pump

SARD RRFPR

SARD R2D2

Carbing Cooling Panel

Samco Rad Hoses (Blue)

Silkroad/Section engine torque damper

Blitz Active Clutch

TRD Reservoir Covers

GReddy Emanage Blue

Aircon removed

Chassis:

Cusco L Zero Coilovers

Cusco Type OS Front and Rear Strut Braces

Cusco Lower Arm Bar

Whiteline Anti-lift Kit

Whiteline Pan-Hard Rod

15in Sebring Sprints (By Rays Engineering) Powder Coated White

Brakes:

3G 10 Groove Discs

Mintex 1144 Pads

Earl's Braided Brake Lines All Round

Blue Painted Calipers

Stock Rear Discs and Pads

Interior:

Rear seats, belts and parcel shelf stripped out

Evo 7 Recaros

Omp 4 point Harnesses

Omp Corsica steering wheel

Razo Formula Spec pedals

Razo Type 340R gear knob

Emanage mounted in centre console with custom carbon fibre fascia

Greddy Profec E-01

Defi Link 52mm Boost Gauge mounted in Nomad racing A-pillar Pod

Defi Link Control unit II

Indiglo Dials

Pioneer DEH-P6750MP Headunit

Pioneer TS-E1076 front speakers

Optional Armrest Retrimmed in Black Suede

Doorcards Retrimed In Black Suede

Custom Leather Gear Gaiter

Halfords Mats WOOOOOO!!

Exterior:

'98 Front bumper cut for fmic with crystal fogs

'98 Clear Front Indicators

Glanza S Bonnet (Raised 10mm at rear)

JDM Reflet Rear Light Clusters

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Cheers sparky. :p

fark! that list is pretty packed now,

since you have bought ther car how much do you tink you have spent on it, including all those troubles you had when you got it,

10k inluding the car?

It was over 10k last year, its probably around 12k with buying the car the repairs and mods. I'm too scared to work it out exactly! ^_^:p If it wasn't for all the repairs it would be a complete weapon anyway! :p

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm finally happy with the car! Wahay! :D

Well the clutch was slipping under any significant load, ie going uphill or trying to overtake, so I decided to re-bleed the cutch and adjust the pedal again and now its completely sorted!

Previously I was having to give the car 3k revs to pull away smoothly, at least 3k revs any time I wanted to change up smoothly and I was having to heel toe on down shifts every time (again to get it upto 3k revs) for smooth downshifts, I couldn't even use engine braking in the slightest or the car would judder so much it felt like it was pulling itself apart. Basically I was having to drive everywhere like I was in a race, which was becoming a little tiresome, especially when the clutch would then just start slipping. :ph34r:

Now though it's like someone has put the stock clutch back in, the pedal is actually lighter than before, I only need between 1.5 - 2k revs to pull away smoothly and can change up or down when I want and use engine braking when I want, I just assumed the 3k revs needed everywhere were normal for the clutch, but now the only difference from stock is when pulling away and the rattle! :D

I'm so much happier now! I've got a couple of little bits on the way but I won't be doing any more significant mods for a while as I'm moving into a new flat and need to get out my overdraft for good this time! But atleastI can finally enjoying driving the glanza for a while....I hope! :D

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It changes gear nice and snappily now, like you can feel it really grab the next gear quickly as you change but its still reasonably smooth. It does feel slightly keener to rev now with the reduced mass of the clutch assembly too.

Its definatley useable as an everday clutch though, the way it was before I adjusted it properly was how bad I expected it to be but its now its fine, although I haven't really done much heavy traffic/stop start driving with it yet.

Are you looking at getting the orc version? As the blitz one seems the same but just more expensive because of the name!

Being stuck in an overdraft is what happens when you travel around the world, so its kinda worth it! :ph34r:

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sounding good wallace mate, seeing as your on the subject of clutches looking into clutches myself i'm looking into the exedy cerametallic paddle clutch but i've heard they can be quite harsh though.

have you had any or know of anyone whos had experience with them as i've heard for likes of stuck in traffic can be a nightmare or like the problem you had d'you think it just needs setting it up properly?

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Cheers mate. From what I read about that clutch its a bit more harsh but could still be used everyday, its a true paddle clutch though and its only got 3 paddle bits which means it will be more grabby than the likes of the orc since it has a complete friction plate it will also wear quicker. It also costs at around £300 and doesn't come with a lightweight flywheel whereas for £500 the orc does so its pretty much the same if you were to buy a lightweight fly later.

These types of clutch's and especially the paddle type aren't ever going to be as good at stop start traffic as the stock one's but if their really bad it could be just be needing adjusted. I was realy surprised at the difference in mine by just bleeding it and adjusting the pedal slightly.

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Wallace, the car is looking hawt yo!

The rims are especially appealing.

Cheers mate, I assume its the rays you like, I hate having the shitty winter wheels on but I need 4 new tires for the rays and its too late in the year to put them on now. :lol: The car looks crap without them.

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Cheers mate. From what I read about that clutch its a bit more harsh but could still be used everyday, its a true paddle clutch though and its only got 3 paddle bits which means it will be more grabby than the likes of the orc since it has a complete friction plate it will also wear quicker. It also costs at around £300 and doesn't come with a lightweight flywheel whereas for £500 the orc does so its pretty much the same if you were to buy a lightweight fly later.

These types of clutch's and especially the paddle type aren't ever going to be as good at stop start traffic as the stock one's but if their really bad it could be just be needing adjusted. I was realy surprised at the difference in mine by just bleeding it and adjusting the pedal slightly.

my flywheel is at the engineers with my crank getting lightened and balanced anyway as i dont think its as straightforward as just slapping the lightened flywheel on it needs to be balanced with the crank.

so you reckon it would wear quicker? replacement friction plates for that exedy clutch can be bought correct?

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If the fly is already lightened then its ok to go straight on but if you're lightening the crank it needs done with the fly on.

I would wearquicker as their designed with racing in mindnot stop and start traffic etc but yeah I would've thought you'd be able to get justthe friction plate seperately. :lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...

With the recent work I've done on the exterior and more so the interior the engine bay has started to look a little sad for itself and is letting the rest of the car down.

So its time to start tidying it up, the obvious thing to start with is the rocker cover, since I had cleaned and polished it up before with it then quickly corroding again, I deceided to paint it this time and its not hard to guess what colour I chose....

Firstly I polished the rocker up again (very slow process by hand with steel wool, hence why its not perfect):

CIMG9571.jpg

Then on with the chosen colour:

CIMG9577.jpg

However the blue on its own is a little too much so to break it up I decided to polish up the raised parts (I say I decided but then my girlfriend actually did it for me! :p ):

CIMG9589.jpg

Finally with it refitted:

CIMG9600.jpg

CIMG9599.jpg

CIMG9590.jpg

I'm really pleased with it, a simple mod that makes a huge difference to the look under the bonnet, the engine bay still needs a proper clean and a few little other bits will be added to brighten it up later.

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