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Allreet,

Heres the story, i have a karmann ghia:

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which i race in autosolos/autotests and autocross, but as body panels are getting expensive and rare, i went looking in scrap/salvage yards for a car to use for autocross/rallycross and stage rallying, origionly looking looking at corsas, fiestas, micras etc, and happened to come accross this:

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I hadnt even heard of a paseo untill i saw this one, hoping it would have a 4AGE under the bonnet, it didnt, but 1500 16v and 89k on the clock, bodywork pretty good shape (apart from the laquer was peeling off) and a mint interior, i thought it looked pretty cool, and different from the corsas/fiestas etc. After repairing the rust, respraying and helping my mate build up is UK '86 i knew a toyota would be a good choice :p

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(thats me by the way ;) )

it was up for £395, but managed to get it for £300, there is nothing up with it, and its still registered, so can be used on the road :)

after picking it up and taking it to my garage, me and my mate, hannah, got on with stripping the interior out, taking out all the sound deadening, and seam welding the whole car :)

ive had the car a week, and so far, painted the front and rear suspension and inner arches, seam welded the whole car, cut inner skins off the doors, made moulds for fibreglass bonnet and bootlid, and made an a frame for towing the car ;)

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thats hannah

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its quite light :p

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release agent on the bonnet ready to take a mould

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moulds are done, just need trimming, and gotta let them cure a bit more before i can cast some pannels.

:) I'm looking for sponsorship for this car too, so parts, paint, wheels, seats, harnesses, loan of an engine etc welcome :)

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allreety again, well today i made a front upper strut brace, and also lower brace and sump gaurd mount.... and also cut two holes in the bumper for the A-frame mounts :)

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lower strut brace:

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the A-frame mounts:

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so, there we go for today :) yup yup

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oh, the rollcage thats in the car, is just one i had lying around, its not a bad fit, but not up to msa spec, pluss it needs to be 6 point

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yeah its real easy,

you need a release agent, i use kantstick wax, polish the bonnet with that, get a good few layers on there.

then gell coat, either brush or spray the gellcoat onto the waxed bonnet,

then fine fibreglass tissue, stick that ontop if the gellcoat, and then dab the resin into it with a brush, once the tissue is coated, use a paddle roller to get any air bubbles out.

next is the chop strand glass to bulk it up, cover the whole bonnet in it and dab the resin onto it, coating it all, and use the roller to press is flat and get rid of air bubbles.

do a few layers of chop strand to make the mold as thick as you like. if your only doing a couple of bonnets the mould doesnt have to be very thick.

now add some battons/peices of wood accross it to keep the mould rigid, just stick the battons on with resin and coat in chop stand.

you can either pull the mould off before its fully cured, so 2 hours after, or leave a day or so and crack the bugger off, use a plastic scraper to get between the bonnet and mould. dont be scared of giving it some grief to get them apart :)

i normally leave the mould for a week or so before casting from it, to get it nice and dried out.

as with the bonnet, wax the mould, about 10 coats, the last coat put on nice and thick and dont buff it off.

now its basically the same as making the mould. so brush or spray on the gellcoat, then apply tissue, resin, then roller, then add 2 layers of chopped strand, making sure you get it nice and even, and also put more towards the edges. give it a right good rollering, the more you roller it the stronger it will be.

i usually use 1 layer of tissue, 1 later of fine weave fibreglass, as its really strong, its like carbon fibre but real cheap.

leave the bonnet in the mould for about 2 days, because if you take it out before its cured fully it will warp like a biatch

anyways, hope that helps.

oh, if you want to make a carbon bonnet, there is an easy way, insted of the tissue, you use carbon, and the gellcoat has to be clear, and you have to spray the gellcoat on with a gun, get a good few layers on, so its thick enough to sand and polish. leave it 20 mins so its half cured, then spray another layer on, then you lay the carbon on and roller the shit out of it untill there are no bubbles at all. then just bulk it up with chop strand, mix one of the small black humbrol model paint tins into your resin, to turn it all black :)

carbon is £25 a sq metre by the way :) kevlar is about £15 and looks awesome on a bonnet.

i use fibreglass because its cheap for racing/crashing

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dude ask you have the moulds already would you be interested in making another boot or bonnet if possible?

yeah sure, £75 for a bonnet and £55 for a boot, i can post or you can collect

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JAE is Japanese Auto Extravaganza, its a 3 days car show soley for Jap cars. A couple of us PaseoPimp-ers are joining the Starleteers on their patch again this year as we don't have enough names down to worthy our own pitch.

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sweet sweet, yeah i'll come allong no problem, even if its not finished, i can A frame it down as a work in progress. i asked my mate, Ian, with the 86, and he's up for going too. looked on the JAE site, looks a reet good do indeed. how many cars we need for a stand of our own?

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This build is looking awesome! Nice to see somone doing something a bit different B)

As for JAE, its a great weekend and you won't regret going along. Not sure if you will get a stand of your own as i believe the stands are allocated about 9-10 months in advance. Im sure they won't mind you tagging along on the UKSC stand (better check first) if not then i know another jap car club that will be more than happy to have you on their stand. :p

Jason :p

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Of course you can join us on the UKSC stand, thats where I will be for the weekend. Would be great to see you there. Have a look in the JAE topic in the shows section of UKSC and put your name down B)

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Nice one, yeah i'll go on the UKSC stand, no worries :thumbsup:

bit of an update from this weekend,

i cut the panhard rod and welded in a M14 bolt to make it adjustable, and found some tube that fits perfectly inside the U channel of the rod, and welded it in to make it real strong:

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i took the fuel tank out to clean off any rust and dirt, gave it a real good coat of paint too:

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i need to coat the bottom of the tank in Fibreglass to protect it, as its under the car,

my mate, ian came down to help me cut the windows out

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to give it a bit more lightness i decided the car didnt need this anymore:

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i also made an alloy sump guard, but forgot to take any pics of it, and its now fitted to the car B)

some more pics i took B)

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Fantastic work, but how are you going to mount the bootlid or do you just plan on it not opening? I mean, you have cut off the rear bulkhead and speaker shelf so... no hinges anymore..

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P.S. I have removed your topic in Members Other Rides on the UKSC main forum, UKSC members access this forum too and post here, so to keep it tidy we just have one topic. Keep up the fantastic progress!

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A good thing would be pins and hinges, so you can open it once in a while. So i'm presuming these fiberglass bonnets/boots will be PIN only really then? (the ones your selling..)

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well i can make them thicker, and put captive nuts in for hinges, its just on this car they will be as thin as poss to save weight. its not going to be a daily car, so opening the boot is no worry...

the karmann ghia has pins on the bonnet and engine lid, the fuel tank is under the bonnet, so every time i fill it up at a petrol station, i have to take the bonnet completly off :D lol. ive had petrol stations that wont switch the pumps on because they think i'm putting fuel directly into the engine, lol.

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