Klyfax's Starlet Chaser. - RUNNING :-D

[klyfax]

Update:

First try of a manifold. Didn't think of the space i had. So it didn't fitt into the car.

Started working on a new manifold.

Since the plan is to control the boost with a 38mm external wastegate, I needed to drill a hole to it.

Here I'm done welding it.

Then I need to cut off what is in the way, inside of the manifold.

And then it needs to be heated up, so the tension in the manifold its the same.

After heating, while cooling down. The manifold is cleared of welding nuts and other stuff.

Downpipe making.

Family picture

And fitted on engine.

Since I'm going to run with a MegaSquirt I ECU (MS), i need an adapter going from Starlet ECU wiring to MS ECU box. Bought a 5e-fe ECU from Idrees. Disassembled the plug from the ECU and soldered 5efe plug with wiring, and soldered the wires on MS plug.

Starlet 4E-FE to MS

Testing... All sensors are communicating with MS, and MS is communicating with my laptop. RPM and ignition is not working, distributor is not modify to MS. I did plan to drive home in it, with Starlet ECU.

Then i solder some other wirings to it so its prepared for DIS ignition (NON Distributor), 3 stage Shiftlight, Launch Control / Flatshift and ACIS (dual runner Acustic Control Induction System intake manifold, 5e-fhe) control valve. Using water injection for this. With that i can control when ACIS is opening. Will be RPM and Boost controlled.

And last picture for today is 5E-FE DIS ignition coils, same engine i got the Crank sensor from. And the can is a 5E-FHE vacuum vessel / container with valve to controlling the ACIS.

Soon more to come

Edited July 20, 2013 by klyfax

[iamlegend]

What a awesome build

Well done

[ro55ifumi]

Quality and top skills

John

[klyfax]

EDIT TO POST #26

Its a 5E-FHE vacuum vessel / container with valve to controlling the ACIS. Not an 5E-FE, since 5E-FE don't have ACIS ;-)

Oh, I worked on the D1 snap off.

Might just work and be the thing I'm looking for...

Edited July 20, 2013 by klyfax

[klyfax]

So its time for another update.

My Honda rad start leaking, so I gave it a wurth radiator sealant. Co-workers said it was the best sealant on the markedet, it won't stop anything. Glad is on the engine thats going out.

So I have to take it off, clean it and sent it to the locale radiator dude so he can change the element.

A mate is also runing with 4E-FE / 5E-FE DIS ignition with a MegaSquirt ECU, on a 5e-fte. At the moment runing over 300 bhp with 1 bar boost. Great figures. He won't stop before he reaches at least 400 bhp. I will keep you updated on his ride as well.

The trigger wheel/cambelt wheel starting to make problems, MS can't read the wheel perfectly , so he told me to fix it before trying to start the car.

Before

After, 1 hour job. 1x 36 -2 teeth trigger wheel. Grinded the space between teeth 1 and 34 away, leaving a space instead of the metal. Easy job, teeth 1 and 34 is slightly higher than the metal between them.
Picture is from behind.

Its MS approved now.

Finally got the package from Tuning Development. Great service from them, very bad service from ParcelForce. Almost 2 weeks before I got the package. Search on google, and I'm not the only one with huge problems with ParcelForce here in Sweden. Seems like 14 days is normal delivery to Sweden, on Priority sent.
In the package there was a TD04 return hose for the turbo. That was just the right part for my turbo setup.

Some welding, and the return pipe was pointing at sump pipe. Then I put the hose on. Perfect fit after cutting in down to a normal size

I have taken the radio and speakers out. No need for them anyway. And fitted the 2 DIN radio frame.

Make myself a place for the HKS turbotimer and Gizzmo Boost controller in the 2 DIN radio.

Its a working progress, but I only need to drill 5 holes, grind it a little and paint it.

This was the start idea, but I have put the controller and timer in the top instead.

Parts are coming from UK, US and Denmark the last week and this week.

Magnaflow mufflers and cat.

Catch can.

An Fittings and hose

Wastegate piping and stuff.

Intake piping, and silicone hoses.

Front 24mm ARB

Droplinks

Ultraracing lower brace.

Heat Reflective tape.

HEI clutch steel braided hose.

And a lots of other stuff.

Next weeks plans are to get the turbo manifold grinded so its nice, wrapped it in powerwrap, hot side from turbo is going over the manifold, so its needs a wrap, and thats why i bought some heat reflective tape to the IC piping going over. Well thats the plan for now, don't know if there is room for it.
Also need to make a wastegate downpipe back to the exhaust system, and drill a hole for it.
Next will be making the last of the 2 DIN.

Thats all for now, more to come over the next 3-4 weeks.

[klyfax]

It is now parked in a friends garage for engine change.

[griffo20022]

Man what a build! LOVE the ECU work and the steering boss electrics!

[klyfax]

Thx

Old engine is out, sensors have been moved to 5e. HEL Braided Clutch Line mounted. All engine mount is changed to powerflex.

[PaulStarletSR]

looking good mate

[klyfax]

Hit by sickness, so its time for a small update.

5E-FHE mounted in car.

Test placing of air to water IC.

5E-FHE vacuum container mounted near actuator to the ACIS valves. Actuator is the one to the right of the container. Its a ID-Workz front upper strut brace :-D

New fuel filter and a steel braided hose.

And I'm done with making the engine loom, pre-tested all sensor, every thing seems to work.
Forgot to take a lot of pictures, will do it next time I see the car.

First up, I need to get well again, then I will make the exhaust system. And I'm waiting on a new rad from Id-Workz. The price of repairing the old one was over 400£...

Edited September 8, 2013 by klyfax

[palmer_starlet]

Wow man great work. Get well and get this beast done!

[Chris Green]

Awesome work pal. Coming along really well.

[klyfax]

Now...

Since I was behind with 3 days, I worked instead of taking pictures. Have taken some, but I will wait posting them to I have time to write something with them. And will take more pictures some day of the setup.

Tried to start up earlier this day, it didn't start. But I could smell the gas getting out of the exhaust. So I knew it was a problem with ignition. After 2 hours of checking wiring between ECU and coils, searching the internet for help, I found out that the ground to the coils was bad. So I took 2 wires and connected + and - of the coils, directly to the battery. Now there where sparks from nr. 1 plug.
Put it all together and tried to start it up once again. It started, sounded ok, and kept running for about 1 minute before I stopped it.

AFR is not connected at all, and there is no water on the engine. Still needs a new rad, just waiting on Idrees to get it and ship it to me :-D

Exhaust is done, water-to-air IC mounted, IC piping is almost done. But it still needs alot of work before is ready to run. But hearing it running gives a great boost. At least the hard part is over.

MegaSquirts tunings program, MegaTune on my laptop while running.

The engine bay as it looks right now. See the red and black wire, its the coils directly + and - :-D
Rad is only mounted so I could build stuff around it.

Now its time to go to bed, tomorrow I will work on the loom. The ECU is working, so I can mount that now...

Edited September 13, 2013 by klyfax

[klyfax]

Long time since I updated this. So here we go.

Building this, have taken some time. More that I thought I would use.

I made a bracket for the Water IC. It is mounted at the top of the gearbox, and on the side of the engine.

Then I started working on the exhaust system. I used a 200 cells 2.5" Magnaflow cat, 1 2.5" round muffler and a oval 2.5" magnaflow muffler. And a flexpipe and 2 V-band.

Also made my downpipe from the wastegate. Made it a screamer, but the exhaust was made, so its ready for the pipe to go back in to the exhaust.

Downpipe and wastegate.

Flexpipe.

Cat and first muffler.

Second muffler. It needs to be refitted, but I will do that when I get it in the air on a lift.

Entire system, before final welding.

When that was done, I worked on the pipe between turbo and IC. I wanted it to be as short as possible, so I tried to put it over the manifold, hoping there was enough space when the bonnet is closed.

There is enough space for a 2.5" pipe

I welded it, and painted it with heat resistant paint.

Then I took some heat resistant alu-tape and cover it. Should help to keep the hot manifold from heating up the pipe.

Fitted, and at the right of the photo is my Mishimotor baffled oil catch can. Also fitted my black 4e-fte valve cover with AN fittings.

Waiting for my rad, ordered from ID-Workz, I worked on interior of the car. Made this 2 DIN plate, it will hold my HKS turbo timer and Gizzmo Boost controller.
Also drilled some holes in it to switches and a shift light controller.

Made shiftlight in the cluster cover. Have a small video of it then putting ignition on, but need to upload it to youtube.

My clutch was not working, so I ordered a ACT 6 pads clutch for it and a 3e-te flywheel.

When the clutch, and rad was fitted, it was time to fill water onto the engine and IC system.

Filling IC system.

Drilled a hole in the 90" silicone hose before the throttlebody for the intake air temperature sensor. It was blown out of there with 0.5 bar, making a high knock on the wall. Scared the crap out of me.

Refitted it and sealed it.

After 120 km/75 miles the engine start making noise from the bottom, sounding like a broke bearing. And I was right, all rod bearings was very worn and a crank bearing was damaged. Apparently I assembled the bottom with a little dirt. The crank shaft is measured and have not taking any damage. New bearing is in order, and will come to me in the next week.

Rod bearing.

The damaged crank bearing. The dot, is from dirt between bearing, and bearing cap.

Random photos I took today of it. Small description is over each photo.

The Water IC cooler, to the right of it, is the water pump placed. Running when ignition is on.

Top of cooler and the filling cap.

New rad from ID-Workz, and the old fan, but mounted between bumper and rad. Water IC hose in front of it.

From an other side. Under the battery, to the left of rad, is the water IC hoses going to IC.

Engine bay at the moment.

2 relays, 1 for IC pump and power to ignition coils. The other is for Water IC Fan, controlled by a switch in the 2 DIN.

Relay and container for ACIS system. Controlled by ECU's water injector. Using the water injector, gives me both boost and RPM control of ACIS.

I have 4 gauges in the car. AFR and a Defi at the speedo.

And 2 Defi and its controller in the glove box. I can change the defi gauge around as I want without having to move wires around to. So haven't decided which gauges should be at the speedo and in glove box. Think I will have the oil temperature at the speedo and boost and oil pressure in glove box for trackday driving.

Thats all for now. The engine ran with 0.5 bar for 100 km / 62 miles, and the ACIS gives a great low torque. It can really be felt when driving around.
Think it will be a great engine when it runs again.

[scutch0]

Fantastic project.

All the best with it.

[rmsnoel]

Dude can I ask what the acis vaccum container is for. Is it to hold vaccum between the solenoid and actuator and was it your design. Keep up the good work

[klyfax]

Thx Scutch.

Rmsnoel. An 5E-FHE ACIS engine have 2 set of intake pipes. The long pipes does not have valves. The short one does.
The vacuum container and solenoid is there to keep vacuum in the actuator so the valves are closed. Without that the valves would open when you hit the throttle. With it you can control when to open the valves. When closed the air has to go the long way around, that will give increase torque and better spool up. And it is very noticeable on the low and mid end torque.
It is controlled by the 5E-FHE ECU. So the design is Toyotas. Only thing I've done is changing the ECU.

Hope you understand, I'm not that good at technical English. Or English More pics of manifold:

[klyfax]

Got my bearings last friday. And today I had an idea that I would work on the engine and put the new bearings in. But I got 5 wrong crankshaft bearings. Its the right number on the box, but wrong bearings inside.
So now I have no idea when my engine will work again. This sucks!

Top bearing half is the wrong bearing that came with 11701-11012-03, bearing mark 3. Bottom half is the right bearing, but in Mark 4, 11701-11012-04.

[Per-Gunnar]

Really nice build!

Let us know what is happening

Do you think I could fit 16x7,5" et35 rims (195/45/16 tires) on an original EP91? Will they fit? I dont want it to rubb, and I dont want to roll the archers.

\Per-Gunnar from Sweden

Edited February 5, 2014 by Per-Gunnar

[klyfax]

Hey Per.

7.5" with 195 is no problem at all. A mate had 7.5" with 205/215 tires, they rubbed, but was under the arches.

Well, I changed all bearings in the bottom. The sound is still there, so I put the car away for 2 month. Last week I transported the car to my work. So this week went to testing and driving the car, got 160 km, and the sound have not changed. Its the pistons that is making the noise. Now there is a problem with the heat. Think it is the waterpump, or the cooling system that is full of crap. Cleaned once, 20 km after, the water had the same dirty colour again.

But it is semi mapped for 0.5 bar, and fells like a great little engine already.

[5e colin]

this is 1 cool project mate keep it up

the knocking you hear is the wiseco pistons on the 5e rods i think its the stock 5e gudgeon pin slapping of the wisco piston ??????

[hookie663]

Nice build mate

[maddox710]

Just went through this thread again, such a cool build good to see something other than the usual td04 -garrett build in the scene

[Rich-k]

Any updates? awesome build!!!

[Sam44]

Really enjoyed your build thread and some great things on here and happening. 

Any updates I know it's a long shot after all this time. 

Head gasket my starlet brother 99% the issue. 

Edited August 24, 2020 by Sam44