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Time Attack/Circuit Car Build - **Forged engine installed!**


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We always keep running out of time to develop the aero. I'm definitely pushing for it to be added this time around though – at least a full underbody diffuser. At the moment we are concentrated on moulding the doors, tailgate and hood to crate fiber copies and save even more weight.


Edited by mindless
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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the lack of updates. It's been quite busy lately and I haven't found the time to organize my thoughts concerning recent developments with our race car.



Anyway, the race series we participate in has started this year's season last March 1st. My brother because of a personal emergency wasn't able to race, so I went alone. Now if you recall this is the first race the car has been in since that 6 hour endurance race we joined towards the end of 2013. And if anyone who has joined any endurance race knows – doesn't matter if your car survives the race; things will eventually break, which I sadly experienced first hand that weekend.



The car was plagued with electrical issues all throughout the morning. The ECU decided to go into limp mode because of a loose sensor and the Emanage Ultimate couldn't do jack shit about it. Ended up missing qualifying in the morning and had to take my time attack run in the afternoon because we had to sort out and trace the issue. Not qualifying also meant that I had to start at the back (19th) on the grid (I decided to run in place of my brother). If that wasn't enough, the radiator fan decided to throw a fit and wouldn't work just as I was lining up to the grid. We had to tap it straight to the battery just so I could race. Electrical gremlins also messed up the boost controller and we couldn't even reach 1 bar. Max boost that day was at .7 bar.



>http://youtu.be/hRwDj6xTN1Q



Race started out pretty bad with a shitty launch. I was able to make up 6 places though over time until I got over eager and overshot a hairpin. That knocked temp wiring we rigged to make the radiator work – and my temp started to go up so I had to retire.



After the race we decided to overhaul the car's electronic system. Along with that we decided to do a Honda ECU conversion and get rid of the fickle Emanage Ultimate setup.



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Edited by mindless
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Interesting on the Honda ecu setup. Never heard of it before this week and now 2 times in concession!

Shame to hear about the issues but like you say it's all part of racing.

Good luck on this season hope you have more luck on the next race :)

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@morgey Thanks! because of the extensive rewiring we had to skip using the Starlet for the race this weekend. In the meantime I'll be driving my EK9 just to get some points in the time attack competition. I'll write a more detailed post about the ECU conversion once its complete – hopefully within the next 2 weeks.


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haha your too kind. really love the work...and its awesome to see asian tuners in action because we always find new ways around problems. when it comes to retro-fitting things....nobody can beat asian tuners haha....same story here bro..some times we cant always find stuff or its too expenive etc. so we find things that will work.. like nissan Vq pistons in Evos..good for 500whp. keep up the awesome work (and driving)!!


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Hahaha! True @wickedep



During that last half of that last race leg – because our boost controller was malfunctioning it suddenly decided it wanted to over boost. We accidentally confirmed that the vitara pistons could handle up to 1.5bar consistently LOL!


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  • 4 weeks later...

Wow, this build is awesome! Would like to no more on the suzuki pistons have a spare engine around somewhere so may give it a crack see what it's like. Also Honda ecu is interesting.

Good driving keep it up bud

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What suzuki engine are they out of 1.6? Is it the same as they use in the civics? What compression ratio does it give you? Does it fit straight onto gt rods? What size head gasket did you use?

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@kbond



  • yes same as the ones they use in SOHC turbo Civic builds. I think the engine code is G16B – found both in the Vitara and Esteem. Do keep in mind that since this is 75mm you will have to bore out your block.
  • the compression ratio is very low. you can see from my photos in the previous pages a compression test is around 130psi per cylinder on average. But this allows us to run loads of boost - and that's where we've compensated.
  • Nope it doesn't fit straight into the 4E rods. Just like what they need to do in the SOHC turbo builds you will need to have your rods re-pinned by a machine shop. Should be a straighforward affair though.
  • Initially I used an FM Motor metal gasket for 4e engines but we haven't found the time to get a new metal head gasket after we changed heads recently so for now we're running just the OEM head gasket.
Edited by mindless
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Few pics of the car working out the few remaining bugs and some fine tuning.



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Civic distributor/spark plug leads on the 4e :) This allows us to run the chipped Honda ECU. Also no more batch firing! Sequential injection FTW!



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Edited by mindless
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Epic work! Would also like to know more about how the civic ecu set up works? Love the fact you guys literally just make stuff work when the parts cant be easily bought.

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@shorty I'll need to ask my tuner for the more technical details but the broad strokes of the whole conversion are as follows



  • 1st you need to adapt a civic distributor and mate it to the 4e head assembly. This is so that the honda ECU can get a signal it can understand. This is sort of the heavy lifting part because you need to machine and weld a bracket and machine the actual distributor to make it work with the 4EFTE head.
  • After that you need to rewire the engine harness to match the rechipped obd1 honda ecu you've chosen. There are a lot of honda ecus that can be rechipped. I think we are using a P28 for our build.
  • They replaced the water temp sensor with a honda one - not sure if it's integral to the build though...
  • Basically that's it. The good thing about it is that because of this setup we were able to go ahead and kill a lot of this sensors that we don't need like Air temp sensor and the stock O2 (since we'll be tuning with a wideband O2 sensor that's permanently installed into the car). So we were able to simplify the wiring a lot and remove stuff that are not really essential.
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