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Am I lacking power forged td04 pfc


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Right so I got my car mapped 4th time lucky:/. Didn't get anything like what I expected. First il give my engine spec

Forged high comp engine running 195 over all 4

Standard head. Has shims needing slightly adjusted. Did my best with the shims I had about.

Race tec td04 kit tial ewg

Race tec intercooler

Sard rrfpr

Blitz I'd boost controller

Walbro

550 sard injectors.

2 Barr map sensor

LSD box

Toms fly wheel

Power fc

Right so that's my engine spec. So I got it mapped at performance hq by Russ. it produced 200 torques and 194 Bhp at the wheels. Twice it's been on the rollers with little difference with a change of turbo. Basicly I'm dropping out boost in high revs. Il get my dyno graph up. I have a better power range on my low boost setting and feels better in lower gears. It should reach 1.5 Barr. In first I make .8 2nd 1.0 3rd 1.2 4th 1.3 5th 1.47 if going flat out threw the gears. But drops out as it revs. Only ever seen full boost in 4th nd 5th is this right to happen? Or should it make full boost in every gear and hold it straight threw. Il get my map graph up. I ran 14 sec quarter mile and 104.2 mph over line. Was not to happy with that.

Any ideas. Engines getting ripped out to find a slight boost leak I heard at back of engine. And to change box and clutch already :p haha. Shredded the box on high boost :)

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Sounds like the boost controllers not doing it's job right. It should boost the same in all the gears. Not sure how you set up the blitz id boost controller. I've always used greddy ones

If you have a blitz Power Meter ID too, then you can use boost by gear.

Do you have one? Is boost by gear enabled for your car?

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Cal,



wastegate or boost controller, swap them out and narrow it down abit.



a torn seal in the external gate would act like a leaking actuator make it hard to build boost/hold it.



Phil


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i would say ditch the boost controller and try again, if the spring was fucked then it wouldnt have any more than 0.8 all the way through, it would just open at that all the time because thats all the spring can handle. take the ewg apart and make sure the diaphram isnt split by being caught in the lid when it was closed up (i caught mine but thankfully didnt split)


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It runs 0.62 off the spring. And also only time I hear the ewg is when it's on my low boost setting which is 1.1 I think. But drops boost and no longer hear it threw the rev range. Bit disappointed with in the amount of money I've dished out on it to recive those figures. I mean what quater mile times are other people getting with similar set up to me. I ran it on standard ecu fpr injectors at .6 and seen low 14s. And on Sunday seen 14 secs before it got wet.

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Strange you can hear a boost leak at the back of the engine russ smoke tests all the cars before they hit the dyno and it picks up the tinysst of leaks. As above check the wastegate for tears. I had a blitz ebc with a power meter on my last car it was superb but herd few people say they had issues with the solenoeds sticking

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right so guys my engine is out and box off, i then proceeded to take my ewg apart to find what looks like a good 4cm of the diamfram been folded back and some one has closed the waste gate up on the side of it, meaning the leak was never being found as when i pressured the cooler system the pressure never went past the solinod o th top of the wastegate and the problem neve being found am i right? new diaphram and put bak together and i should be hitting high boost


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Yeah I'm not even going to bother fitting it back together. I'm going to order new diaphram and stick it in. Can't wait to experience 1.5 Barr solid. Funny enough my car only feels good in 4th and 5th gear. Only started moving in 3rd gear. But was backing out in high revs. Well I think il get my wepr td05 hybrid on and get 300+. Thanks for everyone's help :D

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