turbominicooper Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) im thinking its got to be the bearings so could do with clarification: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rmn1WI4cQpU history is: built this motor fresh and havent even driven it yet.used ACL bearingsplastigauged them -put motor together using torque spec.however... i had shit loads of auto gearbox problems so ive had the box on and off about 20 times, starting it each time.like ive said above havent actually driven it yet so its just idled which i know isnt good but couldnt be helped. cheers Edited October 29, 2015 by turbominicooper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 sounds lovely "!!! use a long screw driver and fit down sparkplug hole keep your hand on screwdriver go to tdc on each cylinder and move back and forth you can feel play if there is bearing damage !!! just lets hope you fucked up on the auto clutch side of things but i doubt it didnt you have problems with this being to tight on the crank a while back ????? if it was for sure bearing is ground to bits by now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 worst sound ever lol dont think ive got a screwdriver that long tbh, is it easier just to whip the sump off and have a wiggle form underneath? im pretty sure it is the bearings and yuh like you mentioned i did have that issue where they were really tight. dont think its the auto as the car moves easily enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 that will be new crank now orr regrind at a minimum if its not to late already and fucked up the rod to Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Ffs , will have to have a good look this weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) sounds very like your tappy sound could be wrong though https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kQbILvqiUqw Edited October 29, 2015 by JDMfreak Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 sounds very like your tappy sound could be wrong though https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kQbILvqiUqw are you thinking its not the bottom end? saying that I haven't seen the engine management light on but thinking either way im gonna take the sump off and have a good look. checked plugs yesterday and all were of a healthy color Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt1878 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Sump off and check for that play in the above video.. Mine was like that and it had spun a shell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 I seen a cam cap brake before and make that sound well similar to the noise but for peace of mind drop the sump off and have a feel of the rods for any play in them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 is there a possible scenario here where I can just replace the bearing (if that's the problem) without having to get the crank reground etc... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Depends how bad shell bearings are if there severely worn then crank out will be needed and either replaced or reground You could go replace the shell bearings and same could happen again in a matter of seconds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt1878 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 As you haven't ran anywhere then it's a possibility. Mine was too far gone and I had to replace engine or go down the rebuild route. Charlotte (Funny Onion) had the same problem but luckily it was just a case or replacing the bearing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 is there a possible scenario here where I can just replace the bearing (if that's the problem) without having to get the crank reground etc... no you cant refit chels if it knocks it neads regrind otherwise the will fail to its not a light knock there thats really hard already damage is done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yeah when the bottom end went on my Advance i managed to just wet and dry the crank with very fine (2000-3000grit sandpaper) and fit new bearings and it was fine. was only a very very slight knock though on mine. I've since done the bottom end on my glanza twice, both times on that it was too far gone and a new set of bearings didn't save it. The way i saw it was it's £60 for a new set of bearings or £500 for another engine/rebuild. worth trying some bearings first i suppose. If it's knocking bad though i doubt you'll save it (I can't see the video on my MOD computer so cant hear it) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 well this is pants Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 how much roughly is a regrind? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 if it is the crank...i'd suggest you get a "used" good condition replacement, get it checked by a machine shop and completely clean your engine and oil pick up/pathways as its likely to have ground up metal in there some where which came from the spun bearings/crank.......maybe even a complete bottom end if you canreason i say this...it will save you trouble in the long run you have to check all clearances again too....best to be safe just changing a bearing will not work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 how much roughly is a regrind? around a 100 + - or there abouts amigo you can pick up a 4efe for that kinda money to salvage the crank ( block ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 It's all about what's local and most things starlet wise are scarce. I'm not on the mainland u see so gonna cost a bomb postage whatever the scenario will b cheaper to get mine fixed I think. Next oversize is +0.25 is that right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 it will determine how much they grind of it dont buy bearings till its ground down to size Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 so ive managed to whip everything off and check mine and it does not look/sound like the problem in JDMfreak's video. When i wiggled the conrod bearings front to back (same as video) there is no clonking noise however there is a slight wiggle from side to side but id imagine thats normal for a cold engine no? there is also a scuffing noise coming from the auto flywheel area when i turn the engine but i doubt that would cause the severe noise coming from the sump like shown in my first video. whats ppls thoughts re: the bottom end being gone? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btUsvrLO534 https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kQbILvqiUqw Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) I'm thinking number one rod isn't right there mate, to much wiggle, while you got the sump off I would take the rod caps off ( remember which one goes where etc,) and check the bearings and the crank check both big and main bearings as its off.Not so long ago I built my engine, I didn't go down the acl bearing route and plasti gauge stuff, got a good crack still had it polished and used genuine Toyota bearings Edited October 31, 2015 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 id be taking that apart again its goosed far to much movement there. There is ment to me the tinyest amount of movement i think the max is about 0.45 not something you could feel with your hands. time for another rebuild unfortunatly thats if the crank is any good any more Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 its normal for the rods to move from left to right ( flywheel to timingbelt side ) but 0 play attal from front of car to the back direction Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 right so had them all off (apart from the mains) and here is what they look like: no.1 no.2 no.3 no.4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.