morgey

I'm not a huge fan of mine tbh. Definitely made it understeer more on sharp tight corners. Stops the front from rolling onto the camber of the wheels if that makes sense. I've since softened the front shocks to try help this but haven't had a chance to test it Fast corners it's good holds the car move level

If this hangs around much longer I might have to buy it Lmao!

Been ok since 2008 but I might change it up a bit and opt for a smaller battery so could do it then. What size do people recommend?

He could have been a sound fella before the incident tbf. Having this happen to you is going to cause pretty traumatic effects and everyone will deal with it differently. Unfortunately his way was stealing people's money etc It's something he's going to have to live with now, that's something I wouldn't want to have to deal with that for sure.

I think optima yellow tops are fairly durable the reds are more for other uses. A mate was on about them the other day I wasn't paying much attention haha

Yeah it was ok for a while then started playing up. Not sure what size my main power cable is, it's about 12mm dia, classed as 25mm maybe? I've used that as the main earth from rear strut bolt and for the + supply from the front. Just used 8mm earth wire jumping in any decent places I could find. Block to chassis in bay then to drivers footwell to rear quarter to strut tower to battery. Never had a problem since And yeah I got a tray from eBay is quite big. Could easily get an optima battery and 1/4 the size of it all haha

I've ran the power down the passengers side. Under the sill cover and through the quarter panel, under the boot slam panel. Out the plastic light/jack access panel. Haven't fused it as I didn't think about it at the time. I've also bridged extea Earths along the drivers side as I had problems with it starting

I would like to but I don't want to be learning 2 different bits of software. My company are currently looking into getting a sharable licence for solidworks to use on multiple computers so maybe then ill be able to try sort something. If there's something I think of ill hit you up

Most of our stuff is done using the conversational software on the machines we have (hurco cnc's, and a haas lathe) I don't get the opportunity to make my own stuff as im always busy doing other stuff. We have one main tool maker and im just a secondary for when stuff gets busy I'm now starting to look/learn cad and cam software but it's a bit of a learn by doing experience and will be very slow. Software wise will be solidworks for Cad and onecnc for the Cam aspect. Starlet parts. I've modded my hubs to fit different bearings so I could use corolla stub axles for my engine swap.

Grass is always greener on the other side. I work in an injection moulding place doing anything and everything from Machining and tool making to mould setting and programming. Sounds cool but it's actually pretty boring lol

I just used hammerite and brushed it on. Seems to last for me

R888's come in different compounds so if you have the soft ones they will wear a lot quicker than the hardest. But will obviously offer better levels of grip

Sell my body for money.... I'm fat, it doesn't pay well

^^^ lool

Great work as usual dude. I'm under the assumption there's an o-ring built In the cylinder to stop it leaking? I've never had one apart before lol

Aren't you meant to have 6 months left on it. Any less they can refuse you?

As in inner cv joint that goes into the gearbox. Good luck I looked for ages and ended up buying second hand shafts

yeah i think i will, the engines worth more than a few BHP gained from no filter, i will try it on the dyno but that will be it.

So as you may have realized I've gone for an OEM look with this, that means as much as possible to be toyota parts, very few after market parts on show. There is obviously going to be some exceptions, i.e Front brakes, head unit, suspension etc. but the initial look of the car is to be a subtly modded SR. The Speedlines are getting a refurb in due course so the track wheels will stay for now, however in the mean time I've taken another part from my Trueno thats breaking. 98 spec levin/trueno red stitched leather steering wheel (air bag not inserted properly in pic)

these were generic across a few toyotas not just ep's, could broaden your search by looking for ae111 ee111 zze111 and all other variants of corolla's. i would imagine any other car from around the same time had them as an option too

Windows, door locks including central locking, mirrors, speakers Anything in the doors lol. Sometimes they wouldn't work or would be intermittent others would be things like put one window down the other door would lock.

If they're anything like the 306's the wiring in the doors can be tempramental.

I can't comment on fan size because my car runs on the boarder of cold all the time with the civic rad so one of my old 9" fan I was using on my stock rad was more than enough. But I've got a 4age not a 4e or 5e

Yeah they just poke through fairly easy tbh no real hassle

Sounds pretty similar to the MR-S pump I've opted for.