morgey

The interior panels are a direct replacement. Seats door cards plastic trim. Glanza brakes bolt up and are bigger. Rear disc conversion can be done. (Calipers with carriers, discs with bearings, brake lines and handbrake cables needed) Strut braces (not the 3 point ones though)

rear bench will fit both cars. front seats fit both. ^^ door cars are ep91 specific.

anybody interested in a set of recaro seats for £400??? not trying to steal your doorcards or anything Aamir *cough*

jewsons has had it for years!

really want the door cards! If by some crazy chance this doesn't go complete dibs on them

My BC's are fine for UK roads. I live in the sticks and drive down poxy lanes quite often and have no grief. As I said though, meister or BC's. D2's are ok but a bit on the harsh side generally.

I'll be looking at RS3's for my daily instead of t1r's. T1r's are an old design and not suited for wet roads. They are technically a summer tyre just like parada spec 2s. Great in the dry and good on track but will over heat on a full day. RS3's would be much better suited for a road car due to the fact they are designed with water in mind. Only issue is they are new so not many people have any experience with them on track. And from my thinking being a wet weather tyre they would over heat fairly quickly on a track day on a hot dry day (this is just an assumption though)

if you can get it to full factory concours condition then yeah go for it, will be worth a bomb in years to come id imagine! but if you have engine mods etc then that will take that away anyway. the same could be said if it had optional bits, since they are factory then theres nothing wrong with it imo. At the end of the day its your car, do with it what you see fit. most mods can be taken off if you dont like them anyway

Always have liked factory gt advances But A Few Subtle Mods Would Be Fine Surely? Or you Could opt for optional extra alloys instead?

sorry if someone was watching them. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-Glanza-turbo-speedlines-/181353238550?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item2a397ed016

Bc or meister. Both are about the same. Meisters go lower that's about the only difference.

Only thing I can think of is the size of the holes on the front shocks are slightly different or in slightly different positions on both meaning different camber which would put your steering wheel out of place.

Get it setup with the wheels on the ramp/ground and if you can put a bit of extra weight in the back to simulate having someone in there also.

I've been making due with out mine for about 4 years and have never really liked it. I'm soon going to be experimenting with a MR-S electric/hydraulic pump as a replacement for the pulley driven one. With any luck I can get the speed variable aspect working as well

I'd get a mate to help. It's about 30kgs so not impossible to do on your own but sometimes they just don't want to go on so if you have someone above to support it, it gives you a chance to readjust and take a second go at things without having to remove it every time.

right so the cars currently out of MOT... again! So whilst its off the road im going to be changing a few little bits. First thing is im going to fit a Toyota MR-S speed variable electric powersteering pump. This is the guide ill be using - http://www.mazdaspeedy.com/2011/11/toyota-mr-s-electric-power-steering.html pretty straight forward so hopefully the install goes the same next is find some lube for the sliders on the rear calipers that doesn't act like glue. I've got 4 spare rear calipers and a rebuild kit for a pair but contrary to belief the sliders don't bind in the caliper, its the slider gripping in the rubber gaitor that locks them up. so im currently experimenting with a variety of oils and grease to see if any stay free after about 30 mins. thinking i need some sort of teflon grease or some shit but we will see. might also whip the suspension off and give it a good clean up and regrease. check out the ball joints and track rods. replace any that seem worn. more updates to follow

I'd say you might need to pull the rear end out a bit. I had to do it to mine after my Bro rolled his volvo into it. Ended drilling a hole in the rear panel putting a bar behind it and bolting a cable to it then winched it out until it was back where it should have been! Lol Good luck with it should be a great little project!

Depends on which kit you go for. Which discs and pads etc I got the 4 pot 275mm x 25mm kit with Ds2500 pads and blank discs with the lines and was around £620

Pm'd

I'll get a pic tonight. You after both or just the one?

I have one on my trueno. It's actually a twin horn setup but can probably separate if unless you want both?

is a good kit no doubt. theres also WMS which work out a bit cheaper and they've set them up to suit starlets master cylinders. they're a trader on the forum also. depends on what you're after tbh

yeah my trueno had it and it was coming on way before the limit of the tyres for some reason. not a nice feeling having a computer pump your brakes, could feel the braking decrease as the abs was working :/

ABS sucks lol

Was recommended something called arrow iirc. Bit like hero's, remake of green arrow of dc comics fame. etc Haven't actually got the patients to watch TV programs so ill leave it up to someone else to find out if it's any good