morgey

What about fabric piping? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/120535928294?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true

Quite like it tbf. Thought it was sticker bomb stuff at first but with a better look I saw the camo lol

Ouch. Never good being in an accident whatever the cause. Take ya time to get yourself together, I'm sure the admin can manage for a while.

Yes it is

Not running at 4e or 5e but since fitting a civic rad mine runs cold if cruising and has caused it to over fuel and reduce efficiency. Need to change my stat to see if the old ones sluggish but I'd almost be tempted to try a higher temp one to see if it would help it sit where it should!

Fml Jealousy is a bitch! Lol

Stock studs are M12 x 1.5 Longer ones can be brought from eBay or toyota if need be. 63mm is common extended size iirc

Could be kinked?

Standard ecu. With fcd, fpr etc etc

This sticker adds 5hp springs to mind lol

The tap on the rad is like a white plastic wing nut as well. It can be a bit brittle n break off but if you flush the whole system you could just remove the bottom rad pipe n not bother with that drain

Yeah if it's all pretty grimy it would be worth pulling off most pipes and flushing everything out. Maybe even get a new thermostat. Flush the rad out both ways. Engine both ways and the heater matrix When I comes to filling it. Mix a load of coolant (not sure on quantity) fill it from the rad until no more can go in. Leave the cap off start the car and it will go down. Keep topping it up until it stops going down or starts overflowing then replace the cap. Run it until the fan comes on and off a couple of times. Turn it off fill overflow bottle and allow to cool. Top Up overflow and rad and it should be ok. If at any point the temp gauge goes way up. Turn it off fill the rad and overflow and allow to cool completley. then repeat the filling step again.

Yeah you should really. Something to do with the type of seal used is suited to red coolant. And yeah it is but you will want to pull the pipe off to flush it properly

It's isn't going to hurt to flush it

Metal bracket bolts onto the floor and that has a couple of screws on either side for the arm rest to bolt to

Same my sr had them but removed them when fitting an alk

Was considering getting a set of them but couldn't bring myself to. Mainly because I don't have any carbon lol Bit gutted I haven't though they look great

It's ok dude It wouldn't fit anyway

Pretty sure someone on here can confirm but to break them in you need to drive around in figure of 8's for like half an hour? Sure someone has mentioned that or will know the correct break in procedure? Also what oil are you using and any additives? Is it compatible with a plate diff? If it's brand new it's best get it bedded in properly. And it should clunk less then apparently

I'm in Italy dude! I drove mine for months like it lol. Is yours brand new?

Yeah my cusco diff was horrid. YouTube morgeyman1 and look for the diff video

it is possible. the bzr had them stock. then the bzg and bzv could both be spec'd up to have most the options that the bzr had.

looking thought the driveshaft holes with no cups in, what does it look like? OEM open diff is a 10-12mm pin/bar going across the hole. anything else could be lsd. get a pic up whilst youre at it ;)

that was his first attempt at them tbf. also edit post on my laptop and it seems to have worked the box really isnt that bad, its only the diff that gets touched, the rest you dont even need to worry about.

The beast. There's a video on facebook of him doing donuts lol