morgey

You need to loose the beam. Each wheel has to be able to arc by itself without the other side moving. (If the anti roll bar was disconnected that is) If you see in the picture of my rolla, the arms attached to the hub only go to a mounting point on the chassis so are allowed to move independently of every other wheel

Only other thing to think about is the RARB will be completely different so would require some extra thought

Are you definitely on a flat bit of road? If you can hop onto the other side of the road and see if it goes the other way. Road camber is a bitch at times haha

Mine had this mate, nothing to worry about. Think its just where someone deburred a poor casting in a hurry before they got ground or some shit lol

Theses are the plugs I've got, dont think I've got the one you're looking for tho But if theres any there of any use let me know!

My thoughts exacty, having had experience with corollas for ages brother owning 2 ae92's and myself a zze111 I've had a plenty of nosing around. The rear setup is on a subframe bolted to the chassis, 4 bolts for that and then the 2 bolts on the trailing arms and its off. All you then have to do is mount this subframe to the starlets chassis, And shorten all the arms bars with screw in rose joints for adjustment fairly easy to make. Only thing i can see is the spare wheel well might need removing. Heres my rollas rear subframe

Not quite independant (on phone only had quick look) But the cambers there!

I do it the same way as you dude

^^^ this And check tyre pressures

Could be the decat blowing making the clicking. Like i said mine was a 4-2-1 n/a manifold so its slightly different. 5w-40 fully synth should be ok but most people will reccommend 10w40 or maybe 10w50 if its taking some hammering all the time.

I can look after work tomorrow, might have one on a loom laying around. Edit: after work today *

Exhaust manifold isn't blowing anywhere is it, like agains the head or onto the turbo? When mine started blowing on the mani to down pipe it made a clicking a bit like that, doesn't sound nothing harmful though. Mine is n/a but the theory is the same.

Not much to say really, been trying to find a metallic rattle around the 2k rpm mark, since last wednesday, spent a few hours on saturday looking about with my old man and a mate. After plenty of poking about and holding various length metal bars to our ears we gave up. Discovered my gearbox is making hell and all noise but im not too bothered by that as i have a spare. But decided to get drunk instead. Anyway after recovering sunday i went down the pub for some munch and took her down there for a run, after getting fat for an hour or so go back in it started it up and the cold idle sits at around 2k... Being is its no longer parked on my lawn i can hear exactly where its coming from! God damn heat shield on the cat!! happy and pissed off as i checked it on saturday, but i wasnt revving the car when i was under it so guess they werent holding the right revs. So will be sorting that this weekend, in the mean time, chilling in the garden with an ale Also helped (stood around) my mate put some custom made pillow ball top mounts on his Subaru justy turbo last night. If you guys knew the custom work, time and money he's put into this you would cry haha Sneaky bay shot its basically a swift gti turbo 4WD with the viscous diff removed and the rear diff welded. 214whp runs 12.4's iirc Nearly every part of the suspension setup has be customized in some way shape or form along with most the rest of the car. Was also featured in banzai summer last year.

I rebuilt mine myself, typically had seized solid only to realise after stripping them and rebuilding them completely, that the sliders were just binding in the rubber gaitors! Been to slack to try some different greases and oils to see if any of them dont seize! But at least i know they are good apart from that lol

That first tunes on that 2 men in a van rapping video....http://youtu.be/urPq6PVa3-o Heres some other old skool classics! http://youtu.be/PSYxT9GM0fQ http://youtu.be/bSJQLCImV18 http://youtu.be/wmwGGLrDvfE

Get in, when do you think your'll have her T&T'd by?

Depends on what model you have really, can range from about 920kgs poverty spec dry weight (no fuel) These have no mod cons, or even parcel shelves to 960kgs dry (no fuel) with a fully speced one. Thats sunroof model with electric everything rear shelf with speakers etc Get it on a local weigh bridge at a dump or sand pit, even somewhere like an abattoir will have one, some charge some don't. and a dry car is no oils of water so add 4.5kgs for oil 2-3kgs for water and washer fluid and dont for get a full tank of fuel is about 40-45kgs so dont be suprised if the weight is up in the 9**kgs fairly But aftermarket parts also will bring the weight dont, coilovers, exhaust, wheels all weigh less than stock

Yeah mine needed a socket over the bush and hitting with a hammer to get on. Didnt think it was going to fit but surprisingly it did

Look good mate

Dont bother with a high excess! Made a £2 differnce to my premium! Look on money saving expert, he has some nifty hints and tips to getting a lower price Also some companies can offer a better quote on modified cars and others cant so try asking for a quote on both

Yeah i know but the number on the stamp represents the manufacturer that that exhaust has. Wasnt sure whether it went more detailed that just the brand lol

Haha that makes the Suzuki look tiny haha

Maybe they missed a 0 out and its a ct90 designed for masssssssssssiiivvvvvvvvveeeeeeeeee booooost levels! Trololol

Some different lsd's in here as well http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/55996-identifing-aftermarket-lsds/#entry815439

But then again it looks similar mounts etc to this which is a civic eg :/ Im giving up and going to work lol http://clubeg6.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=26442