morgey

No worries man I even after all the money I've chucked into the starlet handling wise i still prefer my corolla. whether it was on its stock suspension and tyres, apex ae92 lowering springs(soft as warm toffee) and speedlines or stock rears with apex springs on the front (really weird to drive) its just a much more confident car in the corners. The starlet corners faster due to the better tyres and less weight transfer and roll etc but near the limit the rolla is so predictable and smooth where i know as soon as the starlet hits its limit its guna snap and bite my head off lol

Ahh i see, well might be worth a go, guessing you don't need or aren't going to measure the crank, cant see you getting a micrometer in there? My 4age has some funky stamp system that mean something to do with sizing of the crank and bearings? :s

Cants see how you'd get the top ones out. The crank wont move as its held inplace either end isnt it? So if they have the locking tabs like rod bearings you wont get them round will you? :s

Yeah same sort of groove as what you have on the corners of the bumpers

I have AD08's and love them, seemingly endless amounts of grip in the dry and bags in the wet! But at £80 a corner they aint the cheapest lol

Goodyears get very good ratings in wet and dry (not personal experience) cant say I've heard of the others tho in afraid.

Yeah thats what i mean when i say starlet chassis. Yeah the rolla setup does have its own arb but it has its own mounting point on the chassis for the D bushes. The chances of finding the rolla's arb to mount up anywhere near anything is very slim haha

You need to loose the beam. Each wheel has to be able to arc by itself without the other side moving. (If the anti roll bar was disconnected that is) If you see in the picture of my rolla, the arms attached to the hub only go to a mounting point on the chassis so are allowed to move independently of every other wheel

Only other thing to think about is the RARB will be completely different so would require some extra thought

Are you definitely on a flat bit of road? If you can hop onto the other side of the road and see if it goes the other way. Road camber is a bitch at times haha

Mine had this mate, nothing to worry about. Think its just where someone deburred a poor casting in a hurry before they got ground or some shit lol

Theses are the plugs I've got, dont think I've got the one you're looking for tho But if theres any there of any use let me know!

My thoughts exacty, having had experience with corollas for ages brother owning 2 ae92's and myself a zze111 I've had a plenty of nosing around. The rear setup is on a subframe bolted to the chassis, 4 bolts for that and then the 2 bolts on the trailing arms and its off. All you then have to do is mount this subframe to the starlets chassis, And shorten all the arms bars with screw in rose joints for adjustment fairly easy to make. Only thing i can see is the spare wheel well might need removing. Heres my rollas rear subframe

Not quite independant (on phone only had quick look) But the cambers there!

I do it the same way as you dude

^^^ this And check tyre pressures

Could be the decat blowing making the clicking. Like i said mine was a 4-2-1 n/a manifold so its slightly different. 5w-40 fully synth should be ok but most people will reccommend 10w40 or maybe 10w50 if its taking some hammering all the time.

I can look after work tomorrow, might have one on a loom laying around. Edit: after work today *

Exhaust manifold isn't blowing anywhere is it, like agains the head or onto the turbo? When mine started blowing on the mani to down pipe it made a clicking a bit like that, doesn't sound nothing harmful though. Mine is n/a but the theory is the same.

Not much to say really, been trying to find a metallic rattle around the 2k rpm mark, since last wednesday, spent a few hours on saturday looking about with my old man and a mate. After plenty of poking about and holding various length metal bars to our ears we gave up. Discovered my gearbox is making hell and all noise but im not too bothered by that as i have a spare. But decided to get drunk instead. Anyway after recovering sunday i went down the pub for some munch and took her down there for a run, after getting fat for an hour or so go back in it started it up and the cold idle sits at

I rebuilt mine myself, typically had seized solid only to realise after stripping them and rebuilding them completely, that the sliders were just binding in the rubber gaitors! Been to slack to try some different greases and oils to see if any of them dont seize! But at least i know they are good apart from that lol

That first tunes on that 2 men in a van rapping video....http://youtu.be/urPq6PVa3-o Heres some other old skool classics! http://youtu.be/PSYxT9GM0fQ http://youtu.be/bSJQLCImV18 http://youtu.be/wmwGGLrDvfE

Get in, when do you think your'll have her T&T'd by?

Depends on what model you have really, can range from about 920kgs poverty spec dry weight (no fuel) These have no mod cons, or even parcel shelves to 960kgs dry (no fuel) with a fully speced one. Thats sunroof model with electric everything rear shelf with speakers etc Get it on a local weigh bridge at a dump or sand pit, even somewhere like an abattoir will have one, some charge some don't. and a dry car is no oils of water so add 4.5kgs for oil 2-3kgs for water and washer fluid and dont for get a full tank of fuel is about 40-45kgs so dont be suprised if the weight is up in the 9**kgs

Yeah mine needed a socket over the bush and hitting with a hammer to get on. Didnt think it was going to fit but surprisingly it did