morgey

Not worth the hassle tbh if your guna do it atleast as a minimum drop a 91 spec 4age in 130hp 115lbft. But apart from cost of the engine u may then just aswel put a 20v in 165hp 121lbft, all these would need the same amount of work to fit The 7afe would pull ok but you would get bored of it really quickly I would imagine lol

Looks tidy mate (y) some lad round my ways got a modded one of these kicking out like 160hp n/a needless to say he works for emerald ecu's lucky git haha

Whos taking the towbar?

Them polished ones look sweet, was guna do my speedlines but gave up after two spokes haha Gunmetal or white would look pretty sweet I recon, maybe ask kindly for someone to do a photoshop ;)

Oh and did u try shutting the heater off whilst putting water thru just to check that the valve is operating properly. And I've never removed a heater matrix so cant help there

If u get the car upto temp WITHOUT the cap on it wont be under any pressure just bubbles a lil bit you said you tried running the hose pipe thru your inlet and outlet of your heater matrix pipes on the bulkhead? Did water flow thru ok? If it did then I cant see that would be much of a problem :s Does alot of air come out of your airvents? Do you need a new cabin filter? Mines got pathetic lately and need to look at mine

what about some yaris t-sport wheels 15" ? i know its only 1 but u get the idea. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Yaris-T-Sport-Alloy-Wheel-/140683939926?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Rims_Car_Wheels_ET&hash=item20c16a9056

did you check to see if the oil pump was turning freely? it wouldnt take much to jam that up tight and would explain why u can turn crank and head over separatly but not when cambelts on it all. thats really the only think i can think of, other than that im all out. good luck with it otherwise

its gots some stupidly good compression... lol thats a good one the tensioner bearing hasnt seized or the oilpump if there cambelt driven?? other than that i cant think

this is soo clean and fresh, its a shame the stock rims arent 15s be nice to keep it all close to standard on such a tidy motor

loving all the orignal TOM's gear but its missing one thing.... i think you need this mate Tbh im not sure if its actually toms but its deffinately old school jdm and would look cool as hell in there ;)

ermm didnt mean to post in my own thread but since i did and cant work out how to delete a post ill make something up lol erm got an mot soon wish me luck

id be quite tempted by this but chances are my car will have something wrong with it to make the 200+ mile journey each way haha

the fan will/blower will quit likely be the control board that sits in the airduct behind the glovebox, they get damp and solders corrode. ^^ like that lol the heat itself, have you started the car without the radcap on and made sure the interior heaters on then keep topping up the rad with water. maybe even jack up the front of the car to promote the air to come out. run the car upto temp to make sure the thermostat opens u should notice when this happens at theres more activity from the open rad cap.

lol my bad just seen how old this was

black and white always works imo but a dark gold/bronze (rota grids) is also a good look ;)

because i finally can i just brought this, haha

just started up in safe mode, worked a treat found 13 malwares and cleaned or deleted them all! i owe you a beer thanks sooo much, im going to find something pointless to buy on ebay now

I've got 4 45mm throttlebodies hehe

My car backfires if I short shift just as the vvt is about to cut over n then get back on it A got a mate with an evo thats been mapped to backfire, went past a usaf base the other week and watched half the gaurds duck for cover, fucking pissed myself haha

I just gave mine a refurb as one of the sliders had siezed, got a rebuild kit from camskills (£55 for two sets/each side) as a couple of the gaitors had torn meaning sh*t could get it and made the caliper rust around the one of the pins, I used some fine sandpaper wrapped around a stick in a drill to clean them on. Once its all cleaned use plenty of high temp grease/copper slip on the two sliders and work them back and forth for a bit. If you lift the gaitor for the piston gently with a small flatblade you can look to see if its rusty or wet it should be clean and dry , if it is be prepared to remove it and give it a clean up with some scotchbright or whatever is called. If its ok but the gaitors split, u can remove the gaitor by removing the spring clip holding the gaitor to the caliper its tucked in there but it is there. Once thats out u should be able to replace the gaitor with piston inplace. Hope that helps abit

Really liking the new site guys, very impressed with it all especially the lofi mobile version means I can get me my uksc fix anywhere much quicker now

Ahh dammit, ill give it a go tomorrow with my fingers crossed. Cheers for the help tho very greatfully received

well the malware program wont launch guessing that means theres something stopping it like a virus or something?

cheers for the help man apprechiate it ran a Dns flush, no different plugged into the LAN still no better. Im not very IT literate at all tbh and as its my rents internet i dont want to go mucking around with too many settings and then stopping the main house computer from being able to access various websites, because at the moment that isn't affected :s im not sure if setting a manual DNS will affect the operation of the LAN network or if it will just be a personal setting for my laptop? going to try the malwarebytes software now see if that helps