patman

When off boost what does the aem wideband say then you should have the --- reading that's when you take your foot completely of the acceleration pedal, how was it fitted 36-38inches away from turbo and the sensor tilted up think it's 10 degrees in the centre pipe

Yeah your right there Colin I agree mate,but with mine think I said in a previous post or topic on here they didn't have that micrometer to measure it only had the nearest hundred so came back 40mm So if I'm right here turbomini can't go to toyota now anyway due to having 0.25

Exactly the same what happened to me, my crank only had a polish didn't need a reground, but to be safe I needed to know the exact size all the way across lazy idiots

Give me a bit of time Colin mate they have been done just sitting down mates unit should be getting them on at weekend so will take pics as I clean them and put them in 👍🏻

Update on these seats: bolted the 2 rear feet into the holes then had to chop the 2 front feet off, then lined it up with the 2 front holes with the rails then a very good strong weld. On each front feet, so basically your chopping off the 2 front feel and moving them back a few inches

What part of near LEWES mate

That's a good idea aswell John thankyou

Thanks John for the reply was it the same as what rotaboost said with yours everything fits apart from the one tab in front nearest to console

That's the one Colin mate cheers for the tip

If the fpr is already fitted set it to 2.3 bar when car is up to good temp when idle then get a wideband installed to keep tabs on the a/f readings,

They should know mate to be fair make sure you tell the place to measure each journal and write it down for you, and needs to be measured in 000.0 not 000 if I remember rightly

You can pop into a Toyota dealer if there's one near like I did or ring up your nearest one, if I remember you say I need a set or big end and mains for a (your make and model and year of car) this is where they will say what size for the main set and what size for the big end set, as there's 3 different sizes, hence why when the crank journals are measured to the nearest thousand (do big ends first write it down, then mains and write it down) then go to one of the links and it tells you the sizes, then your know what your need for your mains and then you big ends, I hope this makes sense mate

I would be interested to know the result of this kind of baffling me now everything looks right, inlet pipes all sweet what else could it be

A lot of info I read mate when building mine, what a nightmare though, only thing I can think of here when reading about his bottom end build wrong size bearings I never did like the acl route but that's just my opinion

Oh I'm not sure Colin mate a family member had them stored away for ages to use in an off road jeep but doesn't need them anymore is there any code or numbers etc on the rails to tell? Looking on line my ones are from a Subaru Impreza Wrx 92-01 model 4 door saloon These are not my actual ones below but they are the same model colour etc

A few links here mate please do read http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?27569-4EFTE-Torque-Specs http://www.autotechl.com/MATChapters/EngineMeasurementsBottomEnd2.pdf http://mearcatmini.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/tutorial-bottom-end-bearings-main-seals.html?m=1 http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?61865-engine-bearing-info-needed-please!&highlight=22222 Now I know they mention ACL bearings in this but my own opinion I would go genuine TOYOTA bearings

Ok I see where this is going now Colin is absolutely right what his saying (remember the shit I went through mate with this) when you ring up toyota they will ask you was size bearings you need, I actually have a micrometer in 000.0 cost me 50 quid aswell as the engineer I took my crank too decided to measure it in 000 not 000.0 dumbass and turned around and said we don't do 000.0 here and measured the crank to 40mm on each journal instead of the actual size it should of been in thousands of an inch, where are you located mate and don't worry it's a lot to take in at the moment but step by ste

Wow that is bloody fantastic rota boost mate thankyou so much for that info, there's me thinking it could be a nightmare but knowing I can just leave the Subaru seats on there own rails and 3 holes fit perfect and just sort the forth hole out like you said is definitely less headache thankyou mate this is really appreciated Thanks pat

If you had the pipes the wrong way round you car would of ran for about 5-10 seconds on first start up then just stalled

Hello guys I have just managed to get a pair of Subaru seats still on there own rails, is there a safe way or write up somewhere or people have done it, to put the Subaru seats on the GT rails or have the Subaru seats and Subaru rails to fit like the starlet GT starlet rails, I know people might say to buy the actual rails to fit, but as always am looking for ways to save money, hope this all makes sense and appreciate the help. Thanks Pat

Thanks Alex mate that sounds a better place, it's definitely worth doing anyway for peace of mind

Silly question do you mean take air filter off blow into that pipe, (I have a grill location one) then block that pipe off, may give this a go just to see any leaks

I take it no channel will be showing this in England? On sky or virgin would of liked to of watched this

Did you lubricant all the bearings big and main when first fitted mate? This is a big shame but hold your head up high and don't give up :-)

I'm thinking number one rod isn't right there mate, to much wiggle, while you got the sump off I would take the rod caps off ( remember which one goes where etc,) and check the bearings and the crank check both big and main bearings as its off. Not so long ago I built my engine, I didn't go down the acl bearing route and plasti gauge stuff, got a good crack still had it polished and used genuine Toyota bearings