jiggaman_16

Dont ever stop with this car. Keep it up @ RPF1s, i absolutely hate to say i told u so

Also, is it that Thanks a bunch Another thing, after doing some research, i have found 3 sizes for the front control arm rear bushing: 335 mm, 35 mm & 50 mm. I am wondering if the 35mm one was a mistake posted by some sellers This diagram seems to properly show the two options http://imageapi.partsdb.com.au/api/Image?urlId=hY%2BRl2935T1BzaDZGYMdszA4cCzk3Kr%2FvW9z0gOV0i8%3D 335mm & 50 mm. If so, my application would be the 50mm. Please help, i'm at my wit's end here . Thanks

Is that a confirmation that the EP82 uses the 34 mm bush or are u jus sayin that u have it in stock?

Hey guys, i am interested in getting a set of polyurethane bushings for my control arms on my 1991 4dr EP82 Starlet. I'm gonna use Super Pro as an example. I dont kno whether the 34mm SPF1888K http://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-bushing-kit-for-a-superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-toyota-starlet-ep82-85-1989-1996-/productnr-SPF1888K/cid-999500369/vid- would apply to me or the 31mm SPF1905K http://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-bushing-kit-for-a-superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-toyota-starlet-ep82-85-1989-1996-/productnr-SPF1905K/cid-999500369/vid- would work for my application. Which set of vehicles use the 34mm bushing & which set use the 31 mm bushing? I realize that the 50mm SPF1906K bushing (control arm rear bushing) would be applicable to me & not the 335mm SPF2635K. Please help me in identifying the correct parts mates. Thanx a bunch.

Happy New Year all [drunk] [drunk] [drunk] The new year started off on a slightly bad note for me as one of my fav set of rims popped up for sale, i hitched with the transaction.......& now they're gone However, some work has been done. The clutch & pressure plate kit was changed as the other one was acting up, very hard shudderin at move off & such...... so i stepped up.... Exedy Racing Stage 2 Cerametallic Clutch Kit Car now feels much better, bites well, moves off smooth except for the regular uprated clutch shudder wen u attempt to move off without the gas. Win. [thumbsup] I also did a very simple & effective mod. Uprated shifter cable bushings was done by changing from the OEM rubber bushings to bearings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191422972714?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT All for a grand total of $3.96 USD shipped to my door using the regular mail . The instant the postman dropped them off, they were installed. Others have done the mod & just reported a much better shifter feeling, no more slop in the shifter when shifting. Mine however is a bit different, the shifter is definitely solid, just a tad bit more solid than i had expected. They take a little encouragement for the bearing to fit in the cable's housing but its a solid fit. Definitely a good, cheap mod. Win [thumbsup] I intend on doing the following soon: Short shifter Mod: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=D+I+Y+Short+Shifter Sugar Cube Mod: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/foolishness http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/45424-sugar-cube-change/ My oil cooler hoses ( water hoses) had started to sweat & leak so i did the wise thing & changed them. Less than 4 feet of oil-rated 1/2" (- hose did the trick (Hose Assembly & Supplies, $250/ft). The oil cooler was also moved from a horizontal position with the inlet & outlet on the underneath to a vertical orientation with the inlet & outlet on the side. Less than half the length hose, the right quality hose for the application, looks much neater. Win. [thumbsup] I had noticed that my engine-side engine mount had a smaller diameter bolt installed in it than the internal diameter of the engine mount's metal bushing. In other words, there was play in the engine mount. Supmn like this: So i found a bolt the right size (too short), measured the length, got the correct one at a bolt shop, intsalled & ok. Win. I'm now interested in poly mounts. I'm doin some research on a set for the control arms as well as i mite do the engine & gearbox mounts. The rear gearbox one was done solid by a guy in Mobay who builds them . Mine was baked solid, as in the entire space was filled & baked solid. Due to not being able to set the fuel pressure to the correct setting after changing the pump (wont go below 3.5 at idle), sometimes finding it at approx. 2.1 bar & the fuel pressure doesnt rise when the engine revs, an Aeromotive unit is on the way as well as some AN6 fittings. As a result, the AFRs were all over the place at WOT. It seems to have steadied since lately (11.6 - 11.8 @ WOT), so i drive easy but wen i squeeze, eyes hav to be on the wideband at the same time. Cant wait to get it as research has shown the SARD unit not to be a crowd favorite. 3" silicone hose as well as 3" inlet air filter on the way. Mesh scares me. Catch can is off to be modified to accomodate a big breather filter. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252117306276?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

So true man, so true Is that the Subaru with the bad-azz engine? Hw do u end up with split boots?

Extremely clean.

Its bad but hopefully its not all that bad. Good luck.

I absolutely love it bro........ 300+ whp from a TD05 5E is totally acheivable wen done right. & u did Thats the aim i have for mine too .... Borg Warner GM-5 turbo, 5E, keepin my fingers crossed. Enjoy it until Feb.

I changed my crank seal about 4 times before biting the bullet & removing the oil pump to change the big O-ring behind it. Never leaked from that area again. Very much worth a try

Good luck with the project.

Thats a high TD04 @ 1 Bar WHP figure. What gives? 5E?

Same thing i was saying. 1) the plate welded onto the wheel arch part of the shell looks a bit small. 2) The diagonal bars running from the roof part of the cage to the wheel well, those normally meet the wheel well at the front of the well (facing towards the front of the car) or on top as RobSR said Note, this is constructive criticism, not tearing anyone down.

Is the ground strap from the battery connected to the strut bolt?

Perfectest starlet engine bay bro. Only comparable to the WEPR EP82 engine bay (for E engines that is)....... 1) Rotate those darned injectors.........even cleaner look 2) That battery tray can be removed......non functional anyway 3) Those leftover holes in the bay could have been filled out when the engine was out but.....meh Good goin mate

Good idea on spraying the bonnet mate, with a body color like that, u dont spoil it with a different color bonnet

Speedy recovery & then reshelling wishes from Jamaica bro

I'm starting to fall in love with gold painted parts

RPF1s.....u kno wat it is.....

Luv the rims. Cant wait to see that pile of parts put together

Time, Terminal Speed, Username, Chassis, Engine, Turbo, Boost, Fuel, Tyres, Location & Date 16.0x, , jiggaman_16, EP82, 5EFE, n/a, n/a, unleaded 90, Maxxis Victra MAZ-1, Jamwest Speedway, Jamaica now boosted, will update someday soon

where'd u get the shifter bearings mate?

i think i like this project

Nice little spec list u got there. Should b fun to drive.

Cmon, dont be a wanker . Show us the pile of shiny parts...