jiggaman_16

Both bulbs blow? Lets see pics of the ride.

Interesting. tell us more about the car.

Big up FimiZone Racing Thats d second race wen i missed the gear. Just realizing that i over-revved first gear as well. Hmmmmmmmm

Dont remember all the details but as the story goes : At the last drag meet, my late arrival allowed me to barely get a Q0 sticker. This only enables you only get one pass [worried]. No multiple runs in qualifying to iron out any issues or to correct any mistakes as TwinKam said. I made use of that one pass & lo & behold ..................................................... The time was right in the range i knew it would be. I was hopin for a lower 13 but none the less. I had one main issue during that run. My wideband sensor was located just behind the engine block on the exhaust pipe. My tuner had told me that it should be placed a little closer to provide more accurate, real time AFR readings. The appeal of an open exhaust system plus this overdue advice from my tuner prompted me to move the sensor further up the line. The first V-Band after the turbo was just in front of the crankcase. This was a bit short for the wideband sensor to be placed (i know, i know, at least 18 inches after the turbine outlet..... but that is where its at). So the sensor was moved to a point just before the V-band (Props to BarretFab for the welding work). This was done by removing the sensor, sourcing a nut to match the thread, drill a hole the right size for the sensing part of the sensor to go through the downpipe, & TIG weld the nut onto the downpipe just around the hole. The nut was later ground down to allow the correct amount of the sensor to protrude into the pipe. A matching bolt was bought, cut to length & installed in the old wideband sensor threaded hole. Back to reality, due to the exhaust being off, the car was pretty loud as one can imagine. Note, i didn't have that much practice time with the noise of the open exhaust due to this being done a few days before the race meet. Burnout was done, car was moved off the line quite well but due to the increased noise of the open exhaust & the fact that the tachometer couldnt be reconnected after the ECU change, i didnt hear the shift point at the end of first gear & i banged on the limiter for longer than i should (probably a second or so), thus killing the overall ET. It wasnt a bad run though, felt darned good for the car to finally be running a time that is expected from the ingredients that were used in the setup. I actually qualified 19th in the 13 second class. It seemed as if that was the end of the day for me ..... but as luck had it for me, not all those who qualified actually end up going back out to race. 3 persons dropped out so guess who qualified 16th in the 13 sec class ....... Elated i lined up & waited for my turn. Intimidation is a hell of a thing. I was paired with a 11 sec evo from my camp which happened to qualify for 13 sec class on that day due to issues. Knowing i was lined up with a 11 sec car got the better of me & i ended up watching him in the other lane after move off & yall kno wat happens when drag racing & not being fully focused .............i missed 2nd gear & ended up running 14.xxxxxx Silly me, i'll rise again. The car is still in the same state of tune. No changes have been made. My objective is to run 13.0 with no changes except running with the full exhaust connected this time. By all means this is a step back, but i am challenging myself to run a certain time with the exhaust connected as i know she can do it. At the same time, i just happen to still have an old trunk & bonnet that i have been trying to sell from 2012 when the car was sprayed. [ponder] [ponder] [ponder] [ponder] [ponder] [ponder] [ponder] Why not put them to use? Its not a GT bonnet with the scoop or the GT trunk with the spoiler so nobody wants them : : : . I had a old rear bumper but that is nowhere to be found as i had plans for that also :-[ :-[ :-[ So bonnet & trunk are being race prepared for month end. I was having a lean-out issue recently. Once the engine approaches light vaccuum heading to 0 psi of atmospheric pressure, the wideband shows a lean condition. Changed the filter, same problem. Changed the pump same problem. I was advised to remove the pump strainer & Voila! Even though it doesnt show much physical signs, the plastic strainer seems to have done its time as the AFR is back to what it was before. I am going to order a pump filter but i dont know which is better, sock type strainer or plastic strainer. Any advice please? [help] [help] [help] Sherona got some new shoes by the way I love this shot Enkei RPF1 replicas. Always been one of my favorite set of rims. I hate multi-hole rims. The spokes dont have the exact curve of the originals but they're pretty good just the same. I'm not a Original part or Genuine part, diehard enthusiast junkie. Once they look good & the quality is pretty good, i'm good with it. I wouldn't spend the money on real RPF1s even if i had the cash anyway. Will update soon .........

Kool

what front lip is that bro?

Tasteful mods & upgrades bro. Are those genunine RPF1's or reps?

Soon has come & gone. C'mon, spill the beans ......

any pics of the air filter from inside the engine bay?

Thanks to 5eColin, i have been inspired & i now have a set of MAzda Fc3s fully adjustable coilovers to be modified to work on my car. Lots of work but good days ahead

Keep at it. Must feel good for it to be working again.

Air filter looks smart! I like the direction this is heading.

ECU choice bro?

Thats the bane of Toyota E pistons, cracked ringlands. I've been through my fair share already. Methanol definitely helps though, just go easy with the boost & the standard pistons should survive.

So ...... i bought a genuine Toyota oil pump as the O-ring behind it seems to be leaking again. It pestered me for years, had me wrongly changing the crank seal like foolishness until i did the oil pump O-ring & the leak stopped. For about 2 years now. Why change the pump when i can just change the seal & O-ring? I have noticed that sometime after changing the last pump (which i damaged due to a hard lesson learned - always prime or grease your oil pump when it is new) that the oil pressure has been a bit low at idle. It reads about 5 psi or thereabout when the engine is at warm idle. Specifications say this is the minimum amount required to lubricate an engine but i dont like it at that level. 5E crank is too hard to get. So im gonna change it. The oil leak killed the control arm bushings at that side of the engine so i'm just gonna custom poly bush both sides after the oil pump change in this week. Aiming at Drag Challenge #1. Be there!

what brand is the gauge on the dash? Any pics of it?

Yup, those are both pretty rare parts. I'd kill for the center console armrest piece.

Nice car & suspension.

Good tomkno its still around. Something about that white has me weak tho ......