DavidAshton

Come on, get his name right at least........Keiichi Tsuchiya

yes.

As per title, anyone still got the excel doc for putting sr clock into a sportif? Mate wants it doing and I used the excel doc ages ago to make a visual guide and now my pics are offline and I dont have them or the excel doc anymore.

Luke, is this something your brther would be able to look at? If so can you have a word and PM me some rates? Don't have the confidence to take the box off myslef and wouldn't even know what I'm looking at if I did!

Ive known about this oil being there for about a year now but its never effected anything untill now.... My biting point has slowly been rising up the pedal, and now the clutch has started slipping. Its an exedy 3 puk paddle that was brand new and has only been in a year running circa 200bhp, so i know it should not be dead yet. If it was just the clutch id just get on with it and get another but i think there is a bigger issue with all this oil ive been ignoring. Pics!!! Now my sump leaks at the pulley side, yet another job ive put off so im guessing it leaks on the clutch side of thin

Me, you have to wire it directly to the rpm wire from the ecu. Wiring diagrams are on gizzmo website, mine is wired into the wire coming straight off the harness that plugs into standard ecu.

1.1bar for daily antics and running safe, 1.2 - 1.3 bar when you feel like going crazy.

NICE!!! Shane told me it had gone to a good owner, looks mental on white rims get a thread up! Sorry for spamming this thread, but seriously dude, driving the car knowing the rad was leaking was just asking for trouble.

Shit curt, you own the red baron? Shanes old car?

Looks the fookin dogs!!!! Always looked mint when Mike had it but now it really looks your own and even better! I kinda like the spolierless look too!

I'm guessing this is the Zep one enzo is on about, well has ZEP fenders. Inspiration for you to crack on with this build!

I dont think you have a boost problem reading the above. You cant really make any judgements or alterations on the boost until you have a boost gauge installed, so until you have one set up dont worry about the boost. The issue here lies with your dump valve. The spring will be set too strong and wont be allowing the valve to open at lower boost levels. Im pretty sure Blitz valves are adjustable, so check the top of the valve for an adjustable screw of some sort. Loosen this and it should start dumping at lower boost levels.

Seriously dude, your going to have to give a lot more info than that if you want an answer. What dump valve are you using, how is it set up etc? Boost Problem? That could mean a million different things. Help us to help you!

Personal preference really, what do you want to be looking at, how much effort do you want to put in setting it all up? Safety wise, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp would all be most important. Oil gauges are a ball ache to plumb in properly though, water gauges a little easier. If you just want something pretty to look at thats easy to fit, go for a volt gauge or a rev gauge. All depends what you want really!

Worth the trip just for the dohnuts, cars are a bonus! 1) Cheshire glanza 2) Markoos 3) drew 007 4) redz11 5) DavidAshton

Seriously it will be fine. You will struggle to find a ct9 that isnt cracked around the wastegate. What do you think the cracks are going to do?

Nice....is this the first actual Carat owner on the forum? I cant think of any others. Slammed with some nice alloys this thing would look mint. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

Dude that turbo will run fine, This is what I run, have run knowingly for the last year and pulled 196bhp with, infact this is the original turbo that my car came with and has now run 100,000+ miles. That pics before I ported it, porting it made no difference to the cracks..... Performance and reliability still spot on.

I keep looking at these on ebay too, there is another user selling selling them too, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Starlet-EP82-...=item483b7babae That link says 3 sold, so at least 3 people know what there like All seem to point to toyosports who do lots of ep products very similar to speedvision. My guess is they use the same supplier or there connected in some way.

Thin film of oil is perfectly normal, just the turbo. Proper pools / drops of oil would suggest turbo seals are fubar.

A boost controller can't combat creep. Your boost will go to what ever you set the controller to, then creep. So option 1 and 2 wont work. Option 3 will most likely work. Other options would be to use stock intake setup or put decat back in if you have taken it out. Also I found fitting a fmic helped stable boost when I was running lower boost levels. An actuator doesnt work like this. It will already be fully open but unable to get rid of exhaust gasses quick enough through the small wastegate hole causing creep.

£115 fitted for both the fronts. That about right?

Failed MOT today, needs a few cv boots, drive shaft boot and a set of front tyres. Got the tyres sorted today, parada spec 2's again, cant fault them. Went on a little road trip to scrub them in / get used to them and ended up here. Won't mean shit if your not an F1 fan but its Virgin Racing F1 team HQ. Pretty cool place and I only live 20 mins away and didnt realise.

Standard actuator? If so thats your problem, junk it and upgrade. Also iirc the pipe that isnt sonnected at one end looks connected to the second port of the standard actuator. If you block it you will be in low boost forever. So dont.

Clue is in the title dude, TOYOTA!