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Sam44

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Everything posted by Sam44

  1. You have a nice power curv there. Put a few more direct to battery earth's in there on the engine. The starlet earthing is poor at best. This will sharpen up the engines sensors. I put 1x 10mm earth cable from battery - post to the engine sensor earth Bank, located on the rear of the inlet manifold, and a 10mm cable to the cylinder head to help the spark plugs. Make sure your throttle is clean and opens fully (adjust cable), remove or replace the map sensor in line filter, I remove them, the map sensor responds better with out it. Make sure no other vacuum lines are on th
  2. Nice build of power. Put an adjustable fuel reg on there and set it to 3.6bar base fuel pressure (vac line off), and see what she does. The fse ones are very good. I've seen ct9b at 1bar on a stock ECU hit 200hp it's a sweet spot. You will feel the power increase straight away. I pretty sure socks mentions it also in here some were to. Also are you running an earthing kit. Are you running the map sensor inline filter. Are you running the throttle body wax stat/heater. Feel your throttle body after a run and the car is up to temp, becarful thew its hot. What boost press
  3. I will look now and update this post. I haven't had alot if time to look for some pictures. Basically you open out the turbos waste gate port located in the turbos exhaust housing (the little bypass port with a flap/door). What you do is close the door on the port and use spray paint to paint over the top. Now when you open the door fully you can see the edge of the door/flap, as well as see how much the port can be opened out to. You want to leave a 1mm edge so as the door/flap can seal. This is know as porting a waste gate port to stop boost creep. Its really a quite simple
  4. Haha. Which corolla. I have a ae101 gen1 engine at the other house. Not got round to measuring the cams yet.
  5. Yeh I take it you have fitted one. Enjoy that extra kick after 4krpm. You can see now how easy it was to spot on the Dyno graph. Can I just add it's fun to use the low lift ukdm eP91 inlet cam with bigger turbos or to spool any turbo up sooner.
  6. Yeh. You got it. One of the first mods on this engine (stage1 as it's known) is to remove all the restrictions. Which you have set about doing. The efi pipe is a big restriction. Now you have the turbo off it's a perfect time to port the waste gate. Of course it's completly up to you. It's an easy job to do (opening out the waste gate port)
  7. Lad, very nice find. They are around these boxes. You are set to have a very potent little car.
  8. Yep I will get you one. The turbo inlet on the compressor housing side. Sorry to add a link but the insert images button is playing up. "TOYOTA STARLET GLANZA TURBO EP91 EP82 INLET PIPE | JDM Performance Parts" http://jdmperformanceparts.co.uk/toyota-starlet-glanza-turbo-ep91-ep82-inlet-pipe.html This pipe is very restrictive. Once this pipe is removed you will get boost creep. Info in this topic of how to solve boost creep. "Porting CT9 wastegate - Intake, Turbo & Exhaust - UK Starlet Owners" https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/104815-porting-ct9
  9. Keep an eye on it. Readings will stay the same. As soon as you see anything different there's a problem developing.
  10. Just having a catch up on this now.
  11. Very nice work. At some point I will be onto 1 of these.
  12. It's the turbo inlet pipe, you will see the restriction right at the turbo inlet it narrows, flattens in places and has a few bends all at this point. As soon as you remove the restriction (remove this pipe) on these you will experience boost creep. Basically the turbo waste gate port is to small to regulate the turbo boost pressure effectively. This port now needs opening out/porting . You can clock the turbo compressor housing it will not affect the turbo but you will need to make a bracket to mount the actuator.
  13. Yeh, when you start to get into this little car with a technical head. The errors can be found everywhere.
  14. You might want to port/open out the turbos waste gate port. This will stop boost creep when you decide to remove the efi pipe/turbos induction pipe. This efi pipe is really quite restrictive on power.
  15. I'm sure it will be back together in no time. Get us some pics but don't let taking pics distract you from the job at hand.
  16. Thanks for the information as always. if others can test there standard fuel pressures it would be a big help.
  17. Is the workshop mannula a Toyota manual?. Like everything else I've measured other 4efe/fte & 5efe units. (Just like the unknown cam and thermostat) Which I think I've already mentioned. Another area which was hard to get accepted, but I'm hoping is out there now for people to use. Yes it was me that altered the information on the Toyota 4e engine on wikki to reflecte the real difference in cam and valve springs. If you have the money for a ECU either piggy back or standalone then of course this could benafit you more in other areas as well as power (fuel economy), But tuning i
  18. No claymore my standard fuel pressure rating is 3bar vacume line on so 2.5 to 2.7bar is lower. There the figures guys I'm giving and people are free to try them as I have. Have you or again is this guess work. Buy the way the fpr is mechanical the ECU is electrical the speeds they work are worlds apart. I'm running the pink injectors on my paseo build at 2.7bar and the difference in power on stock green units is night and day big gain alot more torque. The plugs are nice and brown. And it passed mot emmisions. It does run slightly rich on cold start the. People give it a go.
  19. Yeh with all respect it's Two ways of achieving the same hp. Possibly with different driveability results, And yeh these factory engine control units do run rich, I suppose it's why there safe on a fcd at 1bar. The denso injectors really quite poor. For The vacume chamber fpr mod. Requires a vw vac chamber, 3x "T" offs, 1x a inline reducer insert, and 1x one way valve. Giving nicer faster sharper turbo spool up. Give us a message on here.
  20. Charlie try it bro. Put us to the test. .its about fuel atomisation with the stock injectors, altering fuel pressure does not alter fuel delivery by a massive amount. Members, You be the judge. It's what I call a sweet spot. Rob read my post. It's all in there. Half of what you said There is in my post, Basic supporting mods for a ct9 at 1bar is, fmic, aftermarket Exhaust system & decat (this includes an aftermarket exhaust manifold or a ported out factory Unit), hks turbo actuator, fcd/ECU,ported ct9 waste gate, after market induction kit/removal of the stock turbo
  21. There are quite a few 4efe+t recently on the eP91 build page ranging from big money to good budget builds have a look. Most of the lads and lasses/ladets on the first 2 pages are active on here and give some great advice. Good lads. You will typically wait around 1 week for a reply.
  22. What fpr have you got. The eBay regs only drop .2bar'ish (vacume line on) after setting it with it off. fse, and areomotive drop around 1bar. Sard and turbosmart do around .4 to.6bar. do you have a boost gauge that runs into vacume reading. If so can you tell me your idle speed at operating temp and vacume figures. Let us know if it drops to 2.4bar with the vacume line on. This is purely out of interest for me. I'm intrigued in how little info Rob needs. Quite impressive. As said purely out of interest I'm really not here to argue. If you want a nice hp hit the magic fue
  23. Rob is the 2.4bar you answered previously (first comment) with the vac line on or off. The previous answer I'd geuss off. In my answers I put vacume line on and off reading.
  24. Do it with the vacume line on. The setting you are being given here are with the vacume line on. Check the pressure settings have stayed the same after a run and the engine has got up to operating temp.
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