Claymore

One of the first things was an engine bay clean up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eOBH64jDEw&t=17s Used meguiars quick detailing spray for the painted parts and brake cleaner for the bare metal surfaces. The original owner must have lived on a farm or something as the engine bay was pretty grotty. Before: After: Took a couple of hours but makes the bay look more like a 42k mile car!

Thought I'd start a progress blog. (and a Youtube channel for 2022) https://www.youtube.com/@dan91sgarage Bought the Starlet a few months ago and decided it needed a bit of tidying so first things were rust treatment and a bit of sorting out a few things. Its a 97 Sportif (tape deck and keep fit windows, but does have power steering.) Purplish blue metallic (8K9) pretty sun faded looks more like a light blue metallic, 42k miles. 13" rims. Reasonable condition, not been particularly well cared for by the previous granny owner. But a 1 owner car bought from a local garage near to where it was originally sold.

Thanks Sam, I'll be using an Ecu master DET 3 + on my project in piggyback mode so planning on adjusting the Map sensor voltage for fuelling changes (the det 3 can only adjust one analogue input other than timing) and will be retarding the ignition as required. It can also control a boost solenoid. I could hook up the stock O2 as well for logging purposes. I think the AEM FIC has an O2 map that allows control of the O2 sensor output voltage to the toyota ECU? Used for closed loop specifically.

Been thinking about some future plans using a piggyback on a 4efe + t build. I know alot of conversions are out there and would like peoples advice / experience regarding the stock ECU and stock O2 sensor when it comes to closed loop fuel trims. As far as I know if fuel is added with the piggy back in an area of the map that the stock ECU controls with closed loop O2 sensor feed back it will remove the added fuel using a short term fuel trim, if the symptoms persist it will add a long term fuel trim nullifying the added fuel. How do people get round this? Do you remove the stock O2? Do you just floor it everywhere to force the ECU into open loop mode? Can you add a small amount of fuel without the fuel trims occuring? Any help is welcomed. Cheers.

Pm'd

Shame really, the pipe is quite simple. I guess that the demand isn't enough to make one. Could also try contacting some sellers on eBay that are breaking glanza's. They may have one.

Good work, lots of innovation. 👍

Welcome, always do look good in white.

The only one I've seen is the JPerformance one but they don't seem to have the best reputation for sending orders out of late. Looks like the HDi intercooler kit uses a short hot pipe route. You used to be able to buy just the pipework, might be worth asking HDi. Try and buy the hot pipe as a spare part? Pretty sure any of the fabricators (Wepr, Race tech, TD etc.) could make one, not a particularly hard design. Custom one off so may cost a bit. Or another thought, haven't played with a CT9 but if you can clock the compressor housing so the outlet faces down you could end up with an even shorter route. Would still need a custom pipe (2 bolt flange with a stepped up pipe diameter with rolled bead.). Would make actuator very difficult to mount though so may end up external gate. Just a thought.

Seems a bit of a harsh criticism if you think about it. EMB (can't find a new item listed for £150?) Pnp harness or ignition and injector harness 3 bar MAP sensor Fitting of above to vehicle. (Labour of skilled worker) Air filter Air intake pipe (design and fabricate by skilled worker i.e TIG welded pipe assembly and fit to vehicle) Setup on dyno, upload map, tune and tweak, dyno power runs (all time and labour of skilled workers) And I presume the price included VAT so TD won't be getting that part of the price. £699 sounds like a bargain to me.

I spy a boost gauge! 🤞 its a supercharger build? Either way, really like the work so far.

Cheers for the advice, the piggyback I have is capable of boost control using a PWM table, duty cycle against rpm so was planning on using it to control boost solenoid. Was going to use a 6psi wastegate spring to bring boost in slow and use solenoid to increase in mid range and stop boost tailing off at the top. And yes I don't want it all coming in low down as I have no desire to meet Rodney or his brothers! To start with I'll stick with stock N/A cams and C:R, use corolla tubular inlet mani and try TF then TD then Hybrid if I feel the need. (Knowing my luck both the turbos are shagged so I may end up with the Hybrid "opportunity" anyway.) Take it easy

Hey Sam, Thanks for the very detailed and concise response, it is clear you have spent a long time researching this and thank you for sharing your findings. I am interested as much in the methodology as the results. My choice of the tubular corolla manifold for use on my 4efe + t seems the better option for the parameters of that engine, I will most likely use a tf035hm with 6cm housing (I do have a TD04l also that may be tested or could go TF Turbine wheel and 6cm housing with TD04l billet comp wheel and housing?). Hoping whichever option will spool to produce boost at the correct time to carry the corolla manifold torque curve upwards smoothly and plateau in the mid to upper rev range to a reasonable power level. Looking for a controllable, fast road driven car, reasonable budget that is reliable and doesn't eat gearboxes. I think if I need better power to weight ratio I'll look into weight reduction instead of chasing high hp "grenade spec motors" Lol, Can't afford a crazy build anyway, always looking to use the best "off the shelf" parts in the interest of availability and reliability. Hadn't really considered the exhaust mani and down pipe design yet, will see whats available. The Audi twin plate throttle sounds a good solution to the volume vs flow speed balance. I was unsure if its purpose was related to anti lag D-valve you proposed earlier using a sectioned off throttle allowing one plate for normal induction and the second to open to atmos controlled separately regarding air bypass but you mention a second electronically controlled dump valve for this purpose. I have another question re the larger plenum size which you did touch on; regarding pressure differences before and after throttle plate. With a larger volume plenum would the "flat point" be more pronounced as there is more volume to fill before the pressure difference is equalised? For example at higher revs coasting with closed throttle then opened to allow boost in? Perhaps a part of the reason the fte uses the small manifold for higher rpm, boosted performance. Thanks

Interesting stuff again, I am planning on using a corolla manifold on my turbo build as well (design seems best compromise for n/a performance to 6k rpm ceiling and equal length runners with central feed to all 4 cylinders - good for equal cylinder filling on boost), was just wondering what the rationale behind increasing the plenum volume was? You mentioned in another post that the 5efe manifold you were using has a bad balance across cylinders- "cylinder 1 being the weakest down nearly 20% at 6psi boost levels against cylinder 3 at the 100% reference strongest cylinder". Was this tested on a flow bench? Or do you have pressure monitoring on all 4 inlet runners? If so sounds cool, pics please! Also the Audi twin plate throttle, is this still necessary to help fill cylinders evenly now you've switched to the corolla mani? Or is there another purpose you've yet to reveal! Good work so far

Received my order from Amayama today, it took approx. 1 month from order to delivery. Not a surprise with the current situation. All parts correct and genuine. Had to pay Import VAT which was expected (non EU seller) but Parcelforce also charged £12 for the pleasure of arranging it UK side. Bit of a sting but I think still cheaper than UK Toyota, so I'm happy with it. No point using for small orders due to shipping and clearance fees.

PM'd regarding this

PM'd regarding this

Agreed, Best approach for a street car on a budget. Might need an adjustable panhard rod as well depending on how much its lowered.

👍

I checked an online parts catalogue and came up with this part number: 22215-74400 or 2221574400 Google it to check picture. Think they're on eBay for £5 + shipping. Please check its correct before ordering! Or ask Tuning developments or Id Workz.

The square one under the throttle body?

Well look on the bright side, it now has the correct grade oil and you have eliminated another possibility. Believe it or not that's still progress. 👍

5w20 is a bit thin really. Most people seem to run 10w40 in the UK or maybe 5w40 for colder climates. Oil isn't expensive compared to other fixes so I'd change it if it was my car.

Fair enough Sound like either the A/C pump or PAS pump as you have said that the noise is not present until the belt for these items is in place. If a/c works I doubt it could be leaking bad enough to make an air pumping noise. Might be A/C clutch or bearing making the noise though. Keep at it.

It sounds like you may be closing in on the issue. 😀 Some people delete the A/C on these cars and therefore need a shorter belt for the Crank - Power steering pulley. I believe they use the one from the 4efe engine used in the starlet with no A/C. This belt is tensioned from an adjuster on the power steering pump. Google searching for this should reveal belt length required. The noise in the video sounds like air being pumped to me. Does your A/C work? Is there any damage to the pipes or components of the system where the pump could be sucking and blowing air causing the noise?