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Claymore

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Everything posted by Claymore

  1. Claymore
    Just because it made me smile really The channel has some other interesting vids to do with bell mouth shape and design also. Last pic of my favourite itb intake manifold. 50mm slide throttles, carbon fibre 8 injector airbox from Tim Harvey's Labatts M3
  2. Claymore
    Fair enough on the FPR, I presumed you'd be going with a piggyback to sort the fuelling side of things. This guy has done a pretty good write up of it. He couldn't get the fuelling right with adj. FPR and needed piggyback (hence my presumption). Don't forget the wideband o2 for tuning purposes. Looking forward to the progress
  3. Claymore
    Dynoooooooooooooooo!😝 Sounds obvious but we'd all be interested to finally nail down what mods are producing the best gains. Which 4-2-1 manifold did you get? I've heard of the corolla cast one and the OBX for the 5e being converted to fit before. Again there's no dyno before and afters to show the differences. Not sure the fuel pressure regulator will improve much on an N/A unless the current one is a bit tired. I've seen some results posted with a corolla intake and throttle body, stock cam, 2" straight though exhaust. Made 86.6hp. Deleting the cat as you know is an MOT failu
  4. Claymore
    Thanks, the parts bin raiding opportunities are what drew me to the starlet along with the aftermarket products available. Seems to be well covered from "mild" to "wild" builds. The hardest part is to cover all bases with track behaviour and then trying to have a docile "freindly" street car to drive for the rest of the time. Compromises sometimes need to be made. Hopefully the heavier pulley may just take the edge off and make the street behaviour acceptable for you. It is easy and cheap to try anyway. I do like the idea of using the corolla crank trigger and dizzy less system. Toyota O.E. de
  5. Claymore
    I remember recently seeing a modern F1 driver describing his drive in a turbo era F1 car (presumably without als) and the technique of heel and toe throttle actuation on braking and turn in to keep the revs high for spooling the truck sized turbo ready for corner exit! Sounded like quite a handful. I take it you're already using the 4efte crank pulley? As you know this is heavier and would add mass to the rotating assembly. Might help bring some of the missing mass back.
  6. Claymore
    Spot on. Same for me with certain cars. 👍
  7. Claymore
    I pretty sure the stock O2 sensor is before the cat and the temp. sensor is after the cat on the stock 4efte setup. Most forum search results say when fitting an aftermarket downpipe they remove the temp. sensor as its for cat warm up efficiency and no aftermarket downpipes have the fitting anyway, probably best to let TD guide you on that one. I would deffo recommend a wideband o2 sensor and gauge on any tuned car as a failsafe atleast. If the fuel pump gets tired or the fpr starts to fail at least you have a gauge on the dash telling you what the air fuel ratios are to help prevent engi
  8. Claymore
    No hard feelings Sam, I was trying to understand the system (as you said without the full description / info) hence my questions basically trying to help on points I thought you may have missed. Looking forward to the results, bit of F1 nostalgia making a comeback. .
  9. Claymore
    I didn't realise the throttle would be partly open, this would allow air into the turbo to build boost. I have no idea about the amount of negative pressure, hadn't got that far. Nope, not my engine setup Think so. It's nice to see something different and was trying to get my head round it. I'm excited to see the results Sam. Keep us posted.
  10. Claymore
    I was joking about making copies of the exhaust Sam! I'm still getting my head round the proposed layout but I'm pretty sure that I've read the oil seals in the turbo need changing for running in a vacuum or the oil will be drawn past them into the compressor housing and engine? Maybe I'm missing something but when the pre turbo throttle body is closed creating a vacuum from throttle plate to manifold throttle plate (to maintain turbo spool), it also prevents air being drawn into the compressor so it can't produce any boost? The pre turbo throttle is opened by boost pressure to a hk
  11. Claymore
    Thanks mate. For me the decision was easier! I care about all the cars I've owned (some more than others) but this one was only ÂĢ850 and I was happy to drill it. If you look at the picture below (seems familiar?) you have already discovered the exhaust reinforcement bracket on the drivers side that I was noting above. As your glanza is one of the cleanest I've seen for a while I don't know if I'd recommend drilling holes in that beautifully clean chassis! I understand it's your car and you can of course do what you want to it, but in the future cars of your level of cleanness will c
  12. Claymore
    Looks like some good progress, interesting with the pre turbo throttle body. I take it this is in addition to the normal throttle body? Going to be used for 80's F1 style anti lag system? Is this still the 4e or have you built your 5e up yet? Also if you've got a jig for the manifolds how about making some copies!?
  13. Claymore
    Super clean underneath too 👍
  14. Claymore
    Nurse! He's out of bed again! ðŸĪŠ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SERA-5E-FHE-ENGINE-CRANK-SHAFT-4E-5E-FTE-STARLET-GLANZA-V-TURBO/203078813102?hash=item2f4870c5ae:g:YiMAAOSwRUNfOU18 At least its got offers on it! ÂĢ50? Lol ðŸĪĢ
  15. Claymore
    Whiteline adjustable rear anti roll bar install: Vehicle was safely set at ride height and the wheels removed. First I assembled the D-bushes to the anti roll bar (arb). They are a new design that is "grease free" having a PTFE fur lining. Stops the need for grease which can attract grit and wear the bushes out faster. Metal saddle clamps pressed over bushes, I marked the centre of the bar and the centre of the rear beam. Installed the arb centrally with the U-bolts over the beam, through the metal clamp blocks to attach through the saddle clamps with
  16. Claymore
    Good times 😎👍
  17. Claymore

    Sam44

    Claymore replied to Claymore's topic in Positive Feedback

    Thanks for the comment. Don't need the valve springs though. Cheers
  18. Claymore
    Very neat. I like it.👍
  19. Claymore

    Sam44

    Claymore posted a topic in Positive Feedback

    Bought a GT thermostat housing. As described, good price and fast delivery.
  20. Claymore
    +2 from me. Bought a couple of things, both arrived as described in good time.
  21. Claymore
    Thankfully I can PM the admin team and they're looking into it.
  22. Claymore
    Thanks mate, Think I've verified my email, I can send PM's to some members but not others. I'll try yours. Edit: Nope!
  23. Claymore
    I guess that why they offer higher pressure rad caps like 1.2 bar etc. It looks from your description of the system that I understand the coolant flow when hot and cold. My only concern was that in swapping the hoses at the thermostat this reverses the flow through the radiator when the system is up to temp. The top hose thermo housing outlet is now attached to the bottom hose feeding hot coolant into the bottom rad tank and the bottom hose thermo housing inlet is now attached to the top of the rad. The coolant flows from bottom to top now, I think I'll leave it as Toyota intended.
  24. Claymore
    That's weird? when I unplug my icv connector when warmed up it raises the idle! As far as I know the valve defaults to an open position which raises idle rather than oscillating the valve. Is it the icv from the new replacement engine? maybe its stuck and not adjusting with the coolant heat. Do you have the old icv from the original engine you could try?
  25. Claymore
    I would have thought the overflow bottle would have been ok at containing the expanded coolant escaping from the radiator through the cap or I fail to see the function of the bottle at all?! Also if I understand correctly the coolant flows from the block to the back of the thermo housing, through the bypass hole and back down the tube behind the engine to the water pump and then into the engine. The coolant heats up, opening the thermostat and closing the bypass hole (or slowly fluctuating to increase flow through the radiator.). So coolant now flows from the block to the back of the
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