Claymore

Its back! Can't praise Midland turbo enough, the housings look as new, cleaned inside to a degree I didn't think possible. Collected and returned within a week. Turbine housing inlet and outlet gasket mating faces have been ground flat also. Clean oil cavity. Spotless water coolant path. Upgraded, stock size, Instaspool billet compressor wheel. New seals as well obviously. All studs replaced and came with a complete gasket set to re-attach the oil and coolant pipes. Also included the gaskets to attach to mani and downpipe.

Toyota CT9a rebuild I had always budgeted to rebuild whichever turbo I had decided to use. So after looking for a "good condition, low mileage" turbo that everyone bangs on about being available for £50 I purchased these for £75. Nice and clean 😕 No oil leaking past the seals here either lol Hairline crack in wastegate, thankfully you can't see light through it and half of it is covered by the penny. Spoke to Midland turbo about this and also sent them pictures. They confirmed that it wouldn't be a problem due to size, location and direction. They also inf

Are you talking about connecting rods in the engine (for pistons) or driveshafts from gearbox to wheels? I think you have 3 options which have been listed here and on other places on the forum. Turbocharge the 4efe engine that is already in the car. Should be good for 150ps and last an ok amount of time (depending on condition of engine, maintenance etc. Low cost option. 4efte engine swap (with or without gearbox) good for around 220ps assuming the engine is actually any good. Medium cost. Forge build the 4efe in the car already, High power potential (short life) or 220ps f

Time for the wastegate 😉 In all honesty welding to castings isn't a bad thing as long as its done correctly (heated before and during the welding process and allowed to cool slowly over a period of hours) it'll be fine. Quite popular with some but feared by others. The aussies love it. Go for it.

Yeah I've read up on the historic forum posts (the dreaded no.3 piston ring land failure etc is well known), don't worry it'll be good. I have removed quite a bit of material. The no.1 and no.4 exits into the turbo flange were about 2/3rds the size of 2 and 3 once their restrictions were removed. The runners taper quite a lot as they approach this area and I've balanced it quite well. Onto the finishing stage of it now. I'll update here with a full report when its all done.

Lol, very kind mate. I try my best. Almost tempted to buy another starlet spares or repairs to frag for parts for mine but I can't bring myself to take one off the road if it could be saved! Edit: Just phoned Toyota to order some nuts and bolts to fit some fte brackets to my engine and guess what!? One of the nuts is NLA but you can still buy the bolt, yay . Hopefully it's a standard thread bolt.

I'm only after a mild increase in power over stock so not looking to honk out everything from every where as its not really necessary for my intended goals. I know back in the day guys were running 200bhp and 1 bar of boost with mixed results. Don't want to take it too far as there are some sections that are only about 6mm thick, then there are others that are about 15mm thick! lol. There are obstructions in all the runners to a certain degree, some worse than others. The no.2 and no.3 are the obvious and worst lumps with the ends of 1 and 4 having a weird shrouded area as it enter the tu

The porting has begun, going for the old school ported cast manifold. Preview of the no.3 manifold obstruction being removed. Ironically it's a bit more in keeping with the sleeper theme as well, looks like a stock CT9 and mani from the outside anyway.......

Not planning on jumping ship just yet! I know you've been to the ends of the earth rooting through containers to source parts for yours, great commitment. As long as I can finish the project its all good. I've been through it once before already but its the way with all cars of this age. I dread to think the difficulties for the EP82 boys and girls out there. But a honda civic type r ep3 seems like a bargain, if you can find one without terminal rust! I was also looking at a fiesta 1.0t ecoboost to build before the starlet, would have ended up at 180bhp (briefly) and had the nos

Turbo plans update.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-zOMeJYkd8&t=5s To cut a long story short, I bought a top quality TD04 manifold and downpipe (that had to be returned as it was less than the quality expected), then Covid kicked off and I thought I'd take a chance on a mid range mild steel eBay mani and downpipe thinking any small issues would be easily rectified (it was the biggest pile of sh!t I've seen for a while, had to get eBay involved to return it and lost money as the exchange rate had changed so my refund was worth less that day than when I bought it ffs 😡, to add

Cool cool. A homebrew cast top mount, love it!

This is the game with 20+ year old cars unfortunately. 😪 Aftermarket maintenance parts and tuning parts supply are usually ok for years but unique O.E. parts that are model specific become harder to find. It's part of the reason I sold my previous weekend toy. The manufacturer was pretty good and offered a backorder system for NLA parts but it was quite a wait until enough orders were placed to then manufacture the next batch of parts. The problem is modern cars don't do it for me but atleast you know the parts are there.

Imo the heat supplied by what ever mode to the intake air from throttle body is insignificant compared to the heat supplied by the intake ports / tract of the head that will be at operating temperature also (larger surface area). Unless the mpg test was conducted under lab conditions I'm filing it under Internet BS. I have already said why I wouldn't remove the coolant hoses. Therefore, this argument is moot anyway lol.

I would start at the beginning, did the car idle ok before you changed the air filter assembly? Check that the changes you have made are all good, pipes connected correctly, electrical connectors plugged in etc. Make sure the throttle cable isn't too tight and that the throttle plate is returning to the fully closed position and is free to move without sticking. Then clean the throttle body / throttle plate with carb cleaner. spray a small amount down the bypass hole to clean the ICV. Run car to clear out cleaner. See if this changes anything.

As far as I know the coolant pipes are to heat the icv as there is a bi metallic clock spring inside that contracts to move a tube that restricts the bypass air flow when up to operating temperature lowering the idle speed. Removing the coolant pipes would mean the idle would remain high. It is also debatable how much heat would be absorbed by the air flowing through the throttle body as it spends such little time passing through and air is a poor conductor of heat. Sounds like an air leak is most likely.

The 4efe in the EP91 doesn't have a wax stat only the Glanza. The Idle control valve is adjusted by coolant temp. though and this affects idle speed. If your talking about covering the small square / triangle hole in the TB before the throttle plate, then that's the air bypass hole to the icv and if covered at idle there is no path for air to get into the manifold and the engine stumbles and revs drop. This is normal. Is the engine idling high? low? hunting?

I'm glad you brought this up, the current system you describe seems very complicated and more components always provides more opportunity for component / system failure. Let alone the weight / packaging concerns of such a small engine bay. With variable geometry turbo's being more common place (Holset make one 😉) would it not make more sense to design a vgt install (manifold and downpipe) from the ground up thus making all the "anti lag" systems redundant? Or would an electronic wastegate give enough control of boost build and pressure instead? There seems to be alot of development

Can you describe what's happening to the idle? The movie doesn't play so we can't see or hear the problem. Some photos of the engine bay might show an obvious problem. Have you disconnected anything else like pipes or electrical connectors? Probably best to double check that everything that's been moved / added is fitted correctly and connected properly as a start. If weird things happen directly after a change is made, then its the first place to start looking.

You do have to be a bit careful when stripping and plating steel components due to possible hydrogen embrittlement. Its when hydrogen permeates the steel structure during the plating process and forms tiny pockets weakening the material and can cause failures much below the bolts specified yield. The harder material / grade of bolts are more susceptible i.e. grade 8.8, 10.9 etc. After plating, the bolts should go through a de-embrittlement process to prevent this occurring.

Can't see the video. What did you do with the intake air temperature sensor? It's in the top half of the original airbox with the wires going to it. Photos of the engine bay may help.

The power of forums mate! Like minded individuals out to help each other.

As suspected, short series for content while they prepare for a bigger build series. Think I've outgrown the MCM stuff, as previously stated they are an entertainment show rather than professional fabricators. Not knocking what they've achieved but I'm losing interest. Really liked the 2sexy build from show car to nutty track car though. If you like the aussie stuff I can recommend: The Skid factory, Nugget garage and Benny's custom works. Also the Haltech channel. All linked to the MCM guys in some way, just headed in a better direction. Some good builds on their channels recently.

Looking good mate, nice colour! Is it Purplish blue (8k9)?

Check the A/C relay wire is bridged / has the sensor still plugged into it first as glanzadude posted. Then try grounding the fan switch connector wire as I suggested. This checks if the fan switch in the thermo housing works / is the correct type and if the plug is connecting to it properly (you said the switch was a different colour plug and didn't connect well.). It could also show if the wire from the fan switch to the relay is broken. Then its the relay to check. Snaffled this from a reliable source on the other forum, it describes how an EP82 gt turbo system works: Wi

Is it on an EP82 gt turbo? If so, have you tried disconnecting the fan switch connector on the thermostat housing and shorting the pin in the connector to ground with a jumper wire? It should stop the fan running. Will need the ac plug looping: https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/aircon-removal-guide.27259/ All described in the link above.