Claymore

Catch can time. Decided to use one catch can between the turbo inlet pipe and non PCV outlet on the rocker cover. I'm not worried about oil vapours being drawn into the combustion process at cruise and idle, however not keen on them entering the turbo / intercooler. Also wanted to keep the crankcase under vac on boost. So obviously chose the cheapest can I could find on eBay to use / modify. I chose the 15mm nozzle version and the bore is 10mm which matches up with the rocker cover outlet bore more closely. The obvious let down was the piece of garden hose supplied with it didn't fit over the nozzles, oh well! First needed to tidy up the existing machining work, mainly deburring the fixing holes for the screws and nozzles: Pretty rough on the nozzle entries to the lid. De burred the entry to the screw counterbores, entry to the nozzle ports. Cleaned the loose swarf out of the nozzles and deburred the bores. Used a combination of dremel drum sander and a stanley knife for the majority of the work. Aluminium is quite soft and cuts easily.

With an adjustable fpr (which will be vac referenced) I can experiment with different fuel pressures. Or let the dyno tuner guide me most likely.

me too, I'll be honest, with the recent discovery of the N/A map sensor and possible fcd on your car, I'd be seriously looking into the engine management side of things before continuing, the management setup could cause some of the problems you are dealing with that could be better addressed in a different way, fixing the illness not the symptom, but just my opinion. You build just confuses me sometimes! Lol I'll do it my way, you do it yours. Don't want to argue about this anymore, I've said my bit.

No, not the point I was trying to make. My point was about fuel pressure on and off boost regarding vacuum reference. Preserving the desired fuel pressure as manifold pressure changes. Wasn't thinking about ecu. I'm going with "reliable enough". I'm sure you've got some point to make about it. Probably to do with your vacuum delay ball thing? you said before about the map responding at a different rate to the reg? Relocating the map sensor to the manifold for better response. etc.... But the thing to bear in mind is does it actually make a difference worth bothering with? You must think so or you wouldn't have bothered. Might be spending alot of effort for what others consider minimal gains whilst adding complications and flirting with danger.

I feel it's only fair that I get a chance to reply to your edit: I see this as a problem. The Map sensor references the manifold pressure, telling the ecu to add more or less fuel electronically (and also influences the timing). Without a vacuum reference to the fpr to counteract manifold pressure changes, the fuel pressure regulator now creates more fuel pressure than the base setting in vacuum at low load (vacuum sucking out fuel) and less pressure than the base setting on boost (boost pressure pushing fuel back in) I believe its called delta 🤓. Surely it just makes the tuning potential worse? Raising fuel pressure at low load where it isn't required (leading to very short injector pulse requirements and small injectors) and reducing fuel pressure as boost increases where it is required (requiring longer injector opening times, larger injectors and higher capacity fuel pump requirements)? If your lucky you'll be able to tune around this problem if you have an over specced fuel system and full control of the ECU. At worst you will run lean and melt the engine. Hence my decision to run referenced. Not worried at all, I've got a plan I'm happy with. I've researched alot. Nearly finished my plug 'n' play harness for the install and have explored the det 3 tuning software to figure out the settings already. Its slightly different to your description above as I will be using a 2 bar MAP sensor so no problems with boost cut / n/a sensor not reading boost etc. I'll update my build thread with the results. Can't see how the ignition side of the gen 3 corolla will work with the det 3 as there is only one ignition signal input available but I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Graham bell was a skier dude 🤣 No wonder! You mean: A. graham bell? Modern engine tuning? (first published 1989) or 4 stroke performance engine tuning, turbo tuning etc. (yes I can google) I get that the author is an experienced tuner, however the method you have chosen from that book also says it is for a naturally aspirated engine, choosing this option has led you to what I can only describe as an "unorthodox" fuelling setup that has never been required before. This is not what the author wanted. I would also be wary about the advice in that passage about adjusting fuel pressure on the fly at the track to compensate for barometric pressure differences. Ulp! The things like the addition of a rising rate regulator along with the existing one also point to the age of this book (modern adjustable fpr's would replace the existing unit). Basic lessons / theories still ring true but tuning methods seem out of date. I'll second that sentiment, its up to you how you do it too.

Lol, I'll take the advice of RobSR (experienced tuner) over a forum regurgitated book reference any day. You worry me sometimes.

Good stuff mate, I'm sure you're aware from my thread, but if you go the A/N fitting route on the rocker cover just be sure all the swarf from drilling is cleaned out afterwards.

Agreed, don't forget to soak the nuts in wd40 overnight. It helped when I had to separate the mani and ct9 I got (which arrived as one 😉). As I'm sure you know breaking a stud would be bad news, not fun welding nuts on stuff or trying to drill out hardened steel in soft cast iron.

Did the det3 have an internal map sensor? What was the rating of the standard Honda Map sensor, 1bar? Another car you have been involved with that isn't vacuum referenced to the FPR? Even with the addition of a turbo? Even the 4efe is vacuum referenced for the fpr to maintain constant fuel pressure from idle to red line. I'll deffo be running a reference for my build. The force startup voltage doesn't work for cold start enrichment as far as I can work out from the DET3 instructions its to prevent error codes. Also it has no parameters to change back when the engine is at operating temp: "The possibility to set the value of the device’s initial voltage is an additional option. DET3 needs about 7ms for the initialization and to start working. During this process, voltage of the analog output equals 0V. It is possible to enforce a given initial voltage during the initialization process. It may be required for some ECU, which at this time is reading the voltage from a sensor (MAP sensor, MAF sensor), and in case of 0V, to report an error. In such situations, the initial voltage value should be set to the sensor’s reading when the engine is turned off." The only way I can see to make it work is to splice into the coolant temp' sensor and use it as a correction input on the fuel table. It can then be used to add a percentage value to the fuel cell value when cold and as the coolant temp. increases the enrichment can be stopped.

Just wanted to check on how to clamp the analogue signal. Could only find the "clamp VSS frequency signal" in the piggyback software settings initially. But I've had another look and the only thing I could find is the analogue output configuration and there is an "Analogue out max." setting for voltage. Is this how you clamp the analogue signal?

Thanks for that. Been eyeing mine up to see about the intercooler routes and thought the same, would need big slots in the underside of bumper to clear the pipes.

Looks great mate . Nice smooth power delivery too, no sudden surprises in the curve, should drive predictably. Had a few questions about the setup, how did you mount the intake air temp. sensor? Also with the intercooler piping did you go under the front lower cross member or out and round in through the sides? Any pics with the bumper off? Also were you using the 4efe fuel pressure regulator or a 4efte unit? Good job, looks like a nice clean install.

Thanks mate, I'll give them a shout

Looks good mate, short route hot pipe setup aswell. 😎 Good luck with the import duty, when I bought a manifold from china through ebay it arrived express delivery (5 days I think) the customs paper work and charges turned up 2 weeks later.... Hope you get lucky.

Going to need a set of Glanza injectors cleaning before install and was wondering if anyone could recommend a company that they have had good experiences with in the past? Seen a service on eBay but you never know really. Any help appreciated.

Hi Frankie, Good list of parts there I don't know how it works in Italy, but in England when we buy from countries outside the E.U. we have to pay Import VAT (20% tax to the UK government), and also the courier in England who will deliver the parcel also charges a clearance fee to arrange the customs paperwork. Hope Italy has less charges!

Just remember the 255lph fuel pump sold by Tuning developments is not a walbro fuel pump. I'm not saying its bad, there are people using them and Tuning developments wouldn't sell bad things but it isn't a walbro pump if that is what you want to buy. For Toyota genuine parts most people use amayama: https://www.amayama.com/en You need to find the toyota part numbers then copy paste them into the amayama website and it will show the parts. Just remember you will have to pay import taxes when they arrive in Italy, I don't know how much this costs so please find out before ordering anything. I have used them in the past and they are very good, genuine parts.

Also have been looking into the wiring side of things for the piggyback. Long story short, I managed to get hold of the Toyota wiring manual for the 96/97 EP91 and comparing it to the ecu pinouts available on line it became apparent that there were some errors on the ones available for both wire position and its intended purpose. Made this version which I am confident to use for my build. If I didn't know the purpose of the wire I used the description detailing where the wire went to, so as not to guess and continue the bullshit as found in other online versions (some have descriptions relating to 4efte ignition setup etc.)! Although the manual says that some wires are for automatic transmission vehicles the wire was present on my loom at the ECU even though its a manual. The A/C wiring is also present even though mine doesn't have A/C. I believe Toyota decided to use a loom with all the harness features to make provision for all the options available. The ECU part number is: 211000-4550 Might be of use to some.

Well its been a while since I updated the thread. I've been quite busy with other projects, mainly DIY. The problem was the power supply to my garage crapped out a few months ago and with the coming winter temps. and lack of light it became top priority to work in a warm, well lit environment over the coming months. Long story short after digging a 20m trench from the house to garage with a spade so the conduit and armoured cable could be laid, wiring it in and then the immense fun of filling the same fucking trench back in I have restored the power situation. 💪🤨 Been gathering parts / information still for the turbo install and thought in the concept of completeness that I would buy a glanza 4efte inlet manifold to investigate. As delivered, covered in old oil and dirt, did include the air transfer pipe for the IACV and about 200mm of the throttle cable outer which had been cut through rather than unbolted 😏. You've seen me clean plenty of stuff before, but this time I opted for gunk spray degreaser, foam type and normal. It seems to have done an adequate job at removing the dirt and grime but the only word of warning is it smells like paraffin so the overspray on my fleece and other clothing is still present after 2 washes in the machine! Much more presentable, matches the rest of the engine. The plated steel fittings were in excellent condition also. The corolla manifold came in for some more attention, the VHT paint I had used required approx. 200 deg C to cure (always read the label!) otherwise the paint never fully adheres / cures and wipes off at the first hint of oil or petrol etc. I didn't fancy ravaging it with the heat gun so.... I stripped the paint off with brake cleaner and a rag (very easily) and the repainted using acid etch primer onto the bare metal and regular rattle can satin black for the top coat. Also stripped the injectors and the manifold mounting brackets of VHT paint too. Lesson learned, VHT for exhaust manifolds only. Half painted during the summer when temps. were suitable for spraying.

I wouldn't call it researched, I've only checked the install manual I had and it shows a wiring diagram that looks like it will accommodate the grouped ignition setup of the corolla 4efe. I'll say it again: Always consult the guy tuning the car before buying any piggyback device to make sure he will want to tune it and that it will work for your vehicle.

Turns out emanage blue has the same capability (wiring diagram) with the optional ignition harness added.

From memory the issue with the HKS F-con stuff is the tuning lisence. You can only get the software / licence to tune the ecu's if you are an F-con dealer? So home install and tune is not possible. I was talking with a mate about det 3 last night and I seem to recall he mentioned that the Emanage ultimate can handle grouped ignition signals. Checked the archive and found this. Might work for the gen 3 DIS 4efe. Best to contact emanage and check if its possible before any purchases.

I would ask for proof of these failures but I think I'll leave it to Rob SR for that one. Are you saying that if you don't use a fuel cooler on a un mapped car running a hybrid ct9 at 0.7 bar boost or more that the turbo will disintegrate? Or are you generalising that ct9's don't like high exhaust temps. and will suffer reduced service life? Wheel shearing as an extreme example from other examples/ research? Can't remember any cases of turbine wheel shear off on this forum? Its quite common for drag car exhausts to have a cross bolted exit to prevent any rogue wheel exits into the crowd.

Might as well link this as it may be relevant. Always check with your tuner first.