Claymore

Cooling system mods continues.... With the water pump on it was time to work my way round to the water outlet / thermo housing. Managed to buy an early style 4efte water outlet from Sam44 seemingly months ago now. The early style has the 2 separate thermo sensors for the ECU and instrument gauge. This will provide the coolant feed for the turbo. After a clean up, and I also removed the blanking plug (tapered thread again), don't usually use the cordless impact on things but it was virtually impossible to hold the cast alu housing safely so after some tense moments with rat

Sounds like a real challenge mate, the access is easier for sure with the manifold off but will probably take the same time as doing it from underneath. Not a job I would want to do again this year!

Water pump install. Bought a complete water pump and housing assembly from Toyota. No pattern parts bullshit this time! Part number is 16100-19226. Even the box is awesome! It consist of the pump, housing and the O-ring for the water pipe. Wrapped in a sheet of anti-corrosion paper, then in a plastic bag then boxed. Not many photos of this stage as it was time sensitive due to the sealant. I applied a bead of sealant (Elring Dirko) to the circular groove in the pump housing face and on the face next to the groove. Inserted the top securing bolt and slid the pump

Finally getting somewhere I could actually remove the pump. (12mm socket for 1 x bolt and 2 x nuts). The water tube is held to the block with a single bolt (10mm socket) and I removed this to allow the pump to be separated from the block with the pipe still installed and then I removed the pump from the pipe. Note the metal tab on the pipe locates next to a step in the pump housing to make sure the pipe bracket is correctly angled to bolt to the block on install. At this point I realised I hadn't covered the dipstick / block hole and the torrent of old coolant that had poured from t

4efe water pump removal. With the manifold off, the alternator was next on the list so I loosened and removed the belt tension adjuster bolt (12mm socket) Disconnected the alternator wiring. (10mm socket and a clip wire connector) Loosened and removed the lower pivot bolt and nut from underneath the car (14mm spanner / socket) Removed the belt tension bracket pivot screw (12mm socket) and the bracket. It also attaches the dipstick tube to the engine mount. Removed the alternator from the engine bay. The dipstick tube was now free so I removed th

There was a leader board that Socks put together: The link is broken now but it had a lot of dyno graphs (stock n/a to nutty engine swaps) and specs collated and presented very well. Maybe ask him if he can fix the link.

The 4efe stock manifold has quite a tortured path for the air to follow before entering the head, tight bends also.

Back in the engine bay..... Unbolted the 4 x bolts that hold the throttle body on and laid it off to the right. Taped up the manifold and back of throttle body. Removed the upper support bracket after unclipping the injector / map sensor / brake fluid level harness from their mounts. Needed to remove the injector rail to gain access to the manifold mounting bolts, removed the 2 x 12mm bolts that hold the rail on, rescued the spacers that fell out and fucked off under the car! The head seals had perished quite badly so I vacuumed up any loose pieces before lifting the rail

4efe inlet manifold removal. I'm looking to replace the water pump and as the inlet manifold will be replaced with the 4efte version it made sense to do it as part of the pump replacement. So today I started burrowing down the back of the engine to get at the pump. I have a complete water pump with housing so it seemed to be the easiest way of doing it. It quickly became apparent that this is the type of engine bay that requires half the work from above and half from below. So with the car safely on axle stands it was time to start disconnecting things, first I removed the pcv, map s

Thanks mate, but always remember this is just a progress blog where I write up my build. If anyone chooses to use the info, it's at their own risk.

Next the mounting brackets needed to be removed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpA2T589Y-A The drivers side simply unbolts using a 12mm socket, not really in the way but saves a few grammes of weight I guess. Also leaves a couple of m 8 nut inserts available if required. The passenger side mount is in the way of the replacement radiator and must be removed. It is spot welded to the cross member in 4 places. 2 on the vertical face at the top and 2 on the horizontal lip. I don't have a spot weld drill (never really needed one) so I used and 8mm drill bit to drill part way

Decided to crack on with cooling system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpA2T589Y-A Used the petcock on the radiator to drain the coolant (cap off to help speed things up) and disconnected the upper and lower hose once drained. Stout pliers required to squeeze the spring hose clamps open. Coolant was well overdue for a change (5 years my arse!) Unbolted the top 2 clamps with a 10mm ratchet, disconnected the fan electrical plug and carefully lifted out the radiator and fan assembly. The radiator core was badly corroded on both sides and had begun to w

Looks great, looking forward to the build.

Poxy fucking fuel filter! Part 1. Decided to change the fuel filter as part of the "making things ready for turbo" part of the build. Bought a Blue print ADT 32333 as recommended for the EP91. First up I had to remove the upper and lower airbox and intake pipe for access, thankfully these aren't going back on and are now residing in the "Fuck it bucket". I also removed the Air intake temp. sensor from the upper air box, clipped it back onto the plug and tied it up for safe keeping. The car had sat for a week so the fuel pressure was non existent in the rail. First I undid

Look forward to seeing the datalogs, are they on your build thread yet? Wouldn't call it aggressive, I'd call it selling a product not as advertised. Might email the manufacturer.

I've seen on the det 3 live mapping screen that a sharp press of the throttle can take the cursor close to the 5v end of the table quite easily and quickly with a 1bar map sensor running n/a currently. How repeatably I could do this without a robot leg and some kind of throttle stop I don't know. How do you log fuel pressure (analogue dial in engine bay) vs manifold pressure (electronic sensor) to see the different ratio under vacuum conditions? Sounds like these types of regs suck if that's how they actually behave! 1:1 on boost and totally different in vacuum. .

That sounds like something is wrong to me. AFAIK on a 1:1 (linear rate regulator, with vacuum reference) the fuel pressure should rise in line with source pressure i.e. 1psi increase in source pressure = 1psi extra fuel pressure above base setting to counteract. So a base setting of 40 psi becomes 41 psi with 1psi of boost, 42psi with 2psi boost etc. this keeps the actual fuel pressure at the injector nozzle at 40 psi. When you mention rising rate do you mean vacuum reference or a ratio greater than 1:1 such as 1.7:1? For a 1.7:1 (rising rate regulator, with vacuum referenc

I had a Momo boss on my previous car and from memory it had a horn ring already in it. Maybe there is an accessory from HKB? That's the same oil feed / return I've ordered too! Would have preferred if the oil filter end was a 90 degree fitting to stop the hose from needing to bend but if it works it works. Or if the hose was longer it could be looped round anticlockwise and across.

Went with the Sytec 1:1 adjustable fpr in the end. Couldn't justify the extra cost for the Turbosmart kit I had my eye on initially. Should be more than good enough for my project. Got to be better than those no name, shiny, Chinese eBay things I've seen!

Tiny update, some of the fuel delivery stuff has arrived. The adjustable fuel pressure regulator arrived with the 8mm hose tails and gauge blanking plug already installed with sealer. Didn't fancy disturbing them and as the gauge is not meant to be permanently installed I left it alone and bought an in-line adapter to set the pressure and remove when done. Bought a Sytec gauge and adapter, tapered thread as usual, so lined the bench vice jaws with cardboard and nipped the adapter body in it. Added the loctite 577 to the male thread of the gauge and wound it in hand tight (don'

Think it depends on your intended hp goals. Costs should be similar to forge either engine. The 5e has the potential for more power (1.5l vs 1.3l) or would make the same hp with less stress on the components. The longer stroke of the 5e should help torque also. If I had the choice and the 4e was capable of the intended bhp goal I'd forge that and sell the 5e as they're very sought after at the moment. If you want big hp or a less stressed engine go 5e. Although I don't think I've heard anyone complain about their forged 5e build on this forum so far!

Thanks Sam Cheers mate, between me, you and JamesG I think we have the CT9 rebuild content covered recently!

Thanks mate. You can get lucky sometimes with the reverse drill bits, I've found them useful for m 8 sizes and up. Smaller than that and I haven't had much luck, nothing worse than snapping a tiny "easy out" extractor off in one either! Hopefully not too quick spool! Thanks for the kind words, I'm getting there.

Turbo assembly. After getting the CT9A back from Midland turbos I thought I'd get a head start building it up, I got the water pipes, blanking plate and oil feed / drain pipes re-plated (BZP, 7 microns, clear passivate.). Also bought a HKS actuator to replace the tired looking original 2 port jobby. Easy enough to assemble, the bracket is attached to the actuator so the turbo housing mounting face is to the left of the actuator mounting face (as shown below). If you put it on backwards you'll get all the psi's! The actuator rod is adjustable for length via a turn buckle en

Bargain She'll be worth the wait mate, the celica resto photos looked excellent.