Claymore

4efe Timing adjustment. Bought a cheap Accuspark timing light to check and adjust the timing. The instructions said to open the casing and check that none of the internals had become dislodged in transit. I removed the screws and opened the case to find this. As I have no idea what it should look like inside and there were no obvious breakages I reassembled it and moved on . To adjust the timing you need to put the car into diagnostic mode by shorting the TE1 and E1 contacts in the diag. port with an opened out paper clip or wire. As I still have the original factory stick

Hi Frankie, I'm flattered but I'm not an admin of the forum. If you ask @Rob SR or @Akayakpotter or @Socks they might be able to move this thread to the "other motors progress blogs". Or just start a new build thread and link this thread as the first post if you want. Glad its arrived 👍

Never believed in low temp. thermostats. The thermostat is to help heat an engine up quickly from cold and maintains temp. at low load and cruise. As soon as it increases to high load, coolant temps. increase rapidly to 100+ deg C and the thermo is wide open, having no effect at temperature regulation as the coolant flows freely to the radiator. The radiator is responsible for cooling the engine at high load and not the thermostat, it might as well not be there. Also the engineers at the factory designed and manufactured the engines to specific tolerances to run at the original opera

Its quite an interesting subject and I learned some interesting stuff whilst researching the intercooler setup from corky bell and the Jeff Hartman books. They're just heat exchangers after all. The current fan I'm using is straight blade (better), it is ducted (has an outer ring to draw air through rather than in at the sides) and sits as close to the radiator as possible. It's deffo more effective than the Toyota model it replaced as it runs for less time to cool the coolant the same amount the O.E. fan did. The bonus of the shorter rad width is that a fan now covers more of the co

Sounds good, you have a very interesting build.

Nice to hear mate, is the AU starlet forum gone now? Can't seem to find it anymore. Your build thread on there was awesome.

Odds and sods time With the car now mechanically back together and in the best state / condition its been in for years it was time to finish the assembly of the bodywork. With all the bumpers and undertrays off it made sense to clean them before re assembling them to the car. Toyota were apparently very proud of the recycled nature of the Polyprop they'd used which is why they moulded it 11000 times on the inside of the rear bumper! With the lower rad bracket now using the passenger side undertray mounting holes and the radiator mounting posts interfering

4efe Stock exhaust replacement. The old centre exhaust section was pretty much shot due to excessive rust. It was Toyota branded and was most likely the original system. The back box (also Toyota) was in much better shape leading me to believe that it had been replaced at some point. So I sold the original Toyota catalytic converter for scrap (silly money nowadays hence the reason cat theft is on the rise again) and managed to buy a replacement exhaust and still have change for a bag of chips and a pint! The original manifold was good and just needed the rust cleaning off the he

Thanks for the positive comments, how's yours coming on?

Radiator install part 17 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpA2T589Y-A The plumbing begins....... The original radiators are 28mm inlet / outlet and the bottom hose outlet is on the passenger side. It is possible to find a Civic half rad with the 28mm inlets (GPI automotive I think?) but they were only available from Europe, so shipping costs, possible damage and post Brexit (remember that?!) changes made me go UK supply. This leaves me with a 32mm inlet and outlet and the bottom hose exiting in the middle of the bay. The original plan was to make some custom hoses from silic

Yeah that's the fun of lower powered cars on a twisty B-road, full throttle most of the time, with a grippy chassis at relatively low speeds and still a smile on your face. Looking forward to the updates on the SR, it has a great story behind it and your really doing the right thing by her. Wish I had kept some of my earlier cars too.

Thanks mate, every days a school day 🤓. It would make sense not to have to push them into the plug afterwards. Still felt like they'll seal fine with a manual input. Thanks for saying, I know for next time 👍.

Radiator fan wiring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpA2T589Y-A Bought a Toyota rad fan plug and pin set from the usual source. The fan comes wired as a puller setup (mounted in engine bay) with the red wire as + and the black as -. You can swap the fan round on the motor to make it a pusher or reverse the wires and run it backwards if mounting outside the engine bay. Check for reach before cutting the supplied plug off the rad fan wiring. Chopped off and then stripped and crimped on the replacement flat blade style contacts. Don't forget the rubber seals first. Pret

Radiator fan install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpA2T589Y-A Chose the generic 10" slimline 12v 80w puller fan. Went with the straight blade design as these are more efficient for their size but are a touch noisier than curved blade designs. No cable tie mounting kit but I was always planning on making some brackets. Cardboard templates made. Moved the design over to some 2mm alu sheet. Cut a large access slot in the lower mount to be able to use a thin wall socket on the drain bolt. Decided to have both lower mounting points on a single bracket which allowed the

Civic half radiator install, part 1, brackets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpA2T589Y-A So after removing the knackered original Toyota radiator and its mounting points it was time to install the Civic half radiator and bracketry. Chose a Tegiwa dual core radiator as it was on offer and is UK supply. Quality was OK but at least the fins are louvred to help increase surface area. The brackets were the cheapest on eBay. Bolted the lower bracket onto the front cross member using the 2 x m6 bolts into the freshly re tapped undertray mounting points and the upper bracket to

I'm always cautious about moving earths from engine to battery/chassis especially when ECU / signal grounds are concerned hence leaving it connected to the engine as Toyota manufactured it. The current chassis ground setup is a little weird. Never seen a European car need all these unsightly spider cables attaching everywhere, maybe its a JDM thing? Not sure on the differences in cranks haven't seen a 4efe one to compare. Plenty of discussion on the forum but couldn't seem to find any real investigations other than visual. People use both for big horsepower builds but if Toyota went

Mystery stain removal time Since purchase there has always been a dry stain on the drivers side, rear carpet section. Unsure of the origin or makeup of it, but it needed to go! So I pulled the can of Simoniz upholstery cleaner off the shelf and had at it. Its a spray on foam cleaner with brush attachment. Spray on and allow to foam, brush in and repeat a few times. Then rinse with damp cloth, soak up residue (🤮) and dry with hairdryer. Vacuum afterwards. After the first round the stain was almost completely removed, it never ceases to amaze me how effective it is, saved the ne

Toyota Fuel filter install. Seemingly years ago I removed the fuel filter to replace it, after the problems with the fitment of the Blueprint pattern part replacement I decided to go Toyota o.e. and after paying £40 and waiting 3 weeks the filter arrived (new crush washers are included). Part number: 23300-19495. I added some aluminium anti-seize grease to the lower flare fitting threads and tightened it in using a brake pipe spanner on the pipe fitting to prevent any rounding off. The thread class used on this fitting is very tight and the threads felt like they were galling almost

Corolla inlet manifold install. After removing the fte manifold I replaced it with the 4efe corolla tubular steel item. Firstly the head flange is thinner than the cast alu stock fe and fte manifolds so I made some shorter bolts for the lower fixings and added some thicker washers to the top studs to prevent the nuts bottoming out on the plain shank of the studs, torqued to 19Nm. New gaskets for head and throttle body. The upper manifold brace has the same part number for fte and the 4efe corolla mani so I used the upper fte brace to the head. m 8 bolt and nut torqued to 2

Thanks mate. I'd already completed the suspension and brake upgrades so that part is sorted and a massive improvement over stock, to be honest the test drive on leaky shocks and poor quality mix match tyres almost put me off buying it! I'll be keeping it N/A for the time being and enjoying the work I've already put into it. With the corolla manifold it should be at 85 bhp and in an 850kg car that puts it at 100bhp/tonne, warm hatch territory but I remember my mates 106 rallye was still a hoot at about the same power level. Not sure on the future plans when funds allow. At least

Well, after removing and replacing the thermo water outlet, I needed to remove the sump and oil drain so I could weld up the hole. I can confirm that Elring dirko HT selant I used on the sump is VERY effective as a bonding agent! I had to use a heat gun on the highest setting to break down the loctite on the bolt through oil return fitting thread as it wouldn't budge without. Made a small steel disc of the same size and thickness as the sump material and welded the hole up. So... sump welded and painted it was reinstalled with Elring dirko HT sealant, I marked the position of o

Thanks guys, things are looking up. Family and home life are ok now but money is still tight. Thanks for the positive comments.

Dear diary, what a day it's been........😪🤬 Unfortunately due to an unforeseen change in personal / financial circumstances I wasn't able to complete the turbo conversion of Nanza. Even with careful budgeting and planning sometimes life still manages to punch you in the balls!!! Most of the vehicle specific turbo build parts have been removed and sold now. Some have appeared on builds on this very forum and some familiar usernames have also bought stuff aswell. It wasn't a surprise at how fast they sold due to the scarcity of the parts. Helped out financially so it is what it is.

Sounds awesome, looking forward to the progress.

Big girl!!! Saw Nick Kamveer on Matt berry's youtube channel running a TD05 looked to do alright on the 4efe. Have you got a build thread for it?