Claymore

Looks like a pretty serious SKarlet build here! Is the boost control cannister for wastegate dome pressure? As a replacement for the CO2 bottles drag racers use? Also interested to see the results from the vertical flow intercooler.

Know what you mean, I managed to get a copy of the Toyota electric manual for the 96/97 EP91 European models, has helped me a lot. Different wiring to the 98/99 apparently and the JDM models had different colours also! Thanks Toyota I think Sam was talking about the Throttle position sensor being better (variable, potentiometer) on the 4efe corolla compared to the 4efte MANUAL TPS (switch type). Your engine is a 4efte AUTOMATIC and this has the better TPS (variable, potentiometer) so don't change the throttle body as you already have the "good" one. Think it was co

Think I did ok then! 😜. Glad you got it sorted Frankie. Now the modifying can begin.

The standard 4efte exhaust manifold can be ported by grinding / porting out the restrictions, I did it to one for my build. It will help prevent problems for a small boost increase but not the best option. I also know you don't like to modify rare Toyota parts 😉 (which is fine ) The CT9 Tubular manifold Tuning Developments sells seems ok as the first upgrade, Hopefully someone using one will comment on its fit and function. If you want the top level then WEPR make excellent products. But not sure how they will fit in a corolla engine swap vehicle. This pipe is where I would

The first thing to do before changing turbo (we call the larger compressor wheel install a "hybrid turbo") and ecu, fuel pressure reg, is to find the problem you now have. Firstly, what did you change on the car before the problem occurred? Not being rude but it is always the first thing to check and if it was only the intercooler and pipe work then that is where to look. Check for leaks from hose clamps, intake manifold ports, Dump valve can leak (remove and block the pipes, go for drive to check), check intercooler for cracks etc. Some people do a "smoke test" to see if there are any le

Its also worth mentioning that about half of the intercooler core is covered up by the bumper and licence plate. Intercoolers need to have air passing through them to cool the charge air efficiently, it would help if the bumper could be trimmed but I understand if you want to leave it as it is. Or drill a line of holes below the intercooler slot. I don't think there is room for ducting, could blank off the gaps either side to help funnel air into the core. *Edit* If you want to check the pressure drop from the intercooler you can measure it by adding a second boost gauge taking

Frankie wants the solution to work with A/C, he has already tried a sandwich plate which he ground down and it leaked. If the temp. won't work in a remote adapter fair enough, thanks for saying. Hopefully the D1 adapter will work with A/C and no grinding of the adjuster bracket. This may be too demanding for the space available and the restriction of "no grinding". Was fun to think about though.

Had another crack at the puzzle last night: Assuming the gauge sensors are 1/8" npt. The simplest way I can make the MLR remote adapter work is shown below: You need a 1/8" NPT adapter to screw into the MLR side port. It has to be long enough so the gauge temperature sensor in the end doesn't block the gauge pressure port in the side: Not pretty, but it should work.

Let me just confirm, originally you had 1 bar of boost and now you have 0.9 bar of boost? Also the Glanza has a boost cut (overboost protection) built into the ecu at 0.8 or 0.85 bar which acts as a limiter. How are you producing more pressure than this? Maybe your gauge reads a bit wrong. The ct9 producing 1 bar will also be close to its limits as far as efficiencies go as well. The most likely explanation is that the new intercooler has a higher pressure drop because it is longer / more resistant turbulators than the original Toyota one. The benefit is the charge air entering the e

Hi Frankie, I can't confirm if it fits the 4efte without touching the power steering bracket or air conditioning. I posted the dimensions so you can measure the engine you have to see if it fits. Dutchie has bought one and he can tell you for sure when he has test fitted it. The bottom adapter in that picture fits into the oil pan drain hole and puts the temperature sensor under the car. The sensor is a bit closer to the road (can get hit on speed humps) than I would like. If you want to use the engine block oil pressure sensor port with the MLR adapter shown in the picture above,

I've had a look on the 4efe I have and there isn't a huge amount of space to fit this type of adapter and then the Toyota sensor in the end as the sensor or wiring plug may hit the clutch slave pipe. Also the wiring plug may not reach the sensor: The adapter with hose that akayakpotter suggested will be fine as it relocates the adapter at the end of a hose. Or there is an oil filter sandwich plate (D1 spec) that may fit without modding the power steering pump bracket. 3/4" UNF 16 tpi thread. Outer diameter of housing = 74mm, Inner diameter of housing = 54mm

Xmas update, managed to buy a Mig welder off a friend as he had upgraded his. Needed a clean but otherwise good condition and I've used it in the past so I know it welded fine. Also needed a few accessories to bring it up to snuff, new tips, gas shroud, earth clamp. Also needed gloves; a magnetic square is always useful. Also got a D1 spec oil filter sandwich plate (I see you on the other forum! ) and thought I'd measure it up for anyone interested in the sizes. 3/4" UNF 16 tpi thread. It's very nicely made as well. Need to check how well a filter mates to it as they are

Good work, merry xmas dude.

Every day's a school day mate, we never stop learning. Don't forget the forum is here to help if we know what your up to!

Don't suppose you measured the base circle of the cam lobes? Trying to get confirmation it's 34mm for another thread. Did you need many new shims or were you able to swap about the ones you had to get the clearances correct? The only mod currently on mine is the rolla manifold and it improved low down torque, also has better pickup at the top end to limiter (no rev counter!) but it also feels like it has a rich/flat spot in the mid range that makes top end feel more pronounced. Need to check what cam mine has in it. Any pics of the install?

The 4efe wiring for the instrument cluster is different, but the wires can be re-arranged in the plugs to work or use the correct clocks for the loom. There may be more differences. Not sure about the Glanza

Approved. What size turbo are you running?

Looking forward to this Frankie, great work on the rear disc conversion as well. Don't forget to copy and paste a link to the other thread. 😉

Nice to see another build thread starting. It looks great in black. 😍

Just make sure you get the right oil classification for the box. Some of the results for SAE80W-90, 97305 show equivalent oils as GL-1 which isn't suitable. Is it suitable for LSD boxes? I know that helical and plate types differ. I've always had good results from Redline products in non-lsd gearboxes if it helps. Trevstar has had his gears superfinished, might be able to help.

The previous bodyshop really did a number on that. Well done for sticking with it, so much effort but it'll be worth it.

Looks like it got sold on and fragged: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175043054769?hash=item28c1610cb1:g:Po4AAOSwvClhpOe4

This 👆 The heater core is just a small radiator inside the heater box/cabin. It should get as hot as the coolant is in the engine. If the core is cold it is either blocked (or the feed pipes are?), incorrectly re-cored (hopefully they got it right!) or air locked. If the core is hot as the engine coolant then its the heater box flaps not directing the core heat into the cabin correctly. Start by checking if the core gets hot as Dutchie said.

Flash bastards 😡 This is what I have: