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Everything posted by Claymore
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Looks like a pretty serious SKarlet build here! Is the boost control cannister for wastegate dome pressure? As a replacement for the CO2 bottles drag racers use? Also interested to see the results from the vertical flow intercooler.
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Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (R.I.P. the Nanza)
Claymore replied to Claymore's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Know what you mean, I managed to get a copy of the Toyota electric manual for the 96/97 EP91 European models, has helped me a lot. Different wiring to the 98/99 apparently and the JDM models had different colours also! Thanks Toyota I think Sam was talking about the Throttle position sensor being better (variable, potentiometer) on the 4efe corolla compared to the 4efte MANUAL TPS (switch type). Your engine is a 4efte AUTOMATIC and this has the better TPS (variable, potentiometer) so don't change the throttle body as you already have the "good" one. Think it was covered in your first thread (page 10 and 11). -
TURBOROLLA (4efe to 4efte ep91) SWAP
Claymore replied to Frankieflowers's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Think I did ok then! π. Glad you got it sorted Frankie. Now the modifying can begin. -
TURBOROLLA (4efe to 4efte ep91) SWAP
Claymore replied to Frankieflowers's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
The standard 4efte exhaust manifold can be ported by grinding / porting out the restrictions, I did it to one for my build. It will help prevent problems for a small boost increase but not the best option. I also know you don't like to modify rare Toyota parts π (which is fine ) The CT9 Tubular manifold Tuning Developments sells seems ok as the first upgrade, Hopefully someone using one will comment on its fit and function. If you want the top level then WEPR make excellent products. But not sure how they will fit in a corolla engine swap vehicle. This pipe is where I would weld the fitting for the second boost gauge hose to measure pressure before the intercooler. -
TURBOROLLA (4efe to 4efte ep91) SWAP
Claymore replied to Frankieflowers's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
The first thing to do before changing turbo (we call the larger compressor wheel install a "hybrid turbo") and ecu, fuel pressure reg, is to find the problem you now have. Firstly, what did you change on the car before the problem occurred? Not being rude but it is always the first thing to check and if it was only the intercooler and pipe work then that is where to look. Check for leaks from hose clamps, intake manifold ports, Dump valve can leak (remove and block the pipes, go for drive to check), check intercooler for cracks etc. Some people do a "smoke test" to see if there are any leaks in the intake system. Also might be worth doing a compression test. Could remove the exhaust pipe from the turbo and check the wastegate port hasn't cracked too. If the intercooler is oversized it would add a delay before the boost reached its requested pressure, but it should still get to the desired pressure. If the intercooler is too small / restrictive it will restrict the flow of air and cause a pressure drop preventing the boost reaching its correct pressure. What size core did you buy? If you want to test the pressure drop you need a second boost gauge. First install both on the intake manifold port and compare the readings. The gauges should read the same. Then leave one attached to intake manifold and add the other to a port on the hose as close to the turbo outlet as possible (red arrow pipe). Then compare the boost readings when at full throttle / boost. If you want to only test the intercooler drop (not pipework as well) you have to install the gauge fittings in the intercooler end tanks, but this is extreme and unnecessary. I would talk to your tuner and see if he can help, they do this sort of stuff all the time, would be a lot safer and easier to control on a dyno. If you still have the bigger intercooler, you could swap it at the dyno and do a power run to compare. One other thing I will say is that the stock 4efte exhaust manifold has a quite bad restriction (green arrow bad, red arrow ok) in the no.3 runner (and some restrictions in 1,2,4 as well), most people don't recommend running high boost levels with the manifold as it can cause piston ring land damage. -
TURBOROLLA (4efe to 4efte ep91) SWAP
Claymore replied to Frankieflowers's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Its also worth mentioning that about half of the intercooler core is covered up by the bumper and licence plate. Intercoolers need to have air passing through them to cool the charge air efficiently, it would help if the bumper could be trimmed but I understand if you want to leave it as it is. Or drill a line of holes below the intercooler slot. I don't think there is room for ducting, could blank off the gaps either side to help funnel air into the core. *Edit* If you want to check the pressure drop from the intercooler you can measure it by adding a second boost gauge taking its signal from before the intercooler. You can then compare the two gauge readings to see the pressure drop. -
Frankie wants the solution to work with A/C, he has already tried a sandwich plate which he ground down and it leaked. If the temp. won't work in a remote adapter fair enough, thanks for saying. Hopefully the D1 adapter will work with A/C and no grinding of the adjuster bracket. This may be too demanding for the space available and the restriction of "no grinding". Was fun to think about though.
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Had another crack at the puzzle last night: Assuming the gauge sensors are 1/8" npt. The simplest way I can make the MLR remote adapter work is shown below: You need a 1/8" NPT adapter to screw into the MLR side port. It has to be long enough so the gauge temperature sensor in the end doesn't block the gauge pressure port in the side: Not pretty, but it should work.
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TURBOROLLA (4efe to 4efte ep91) SWAP
Claymore replied to Frankieflowers's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Let me just confirm, originally you had 1 bar of boost and now you have 0.9 bar of boost? Also the Glanza has a boost cut (overboost protection) built into the ecu at 0.8 or 0.85 bar which acts as a limiter. How are you producing more pressure than this? Maybe your gauge reads a bit wrong. The ct9 producing 1 bar will also be close to its limits as far as efficiencies go as well. The most likely explanation is that the new intercooler has a higher pressure drop because it is longer / more resistant turbulators than the original Toyota one. The benefit is the charge air entering the engine should now be cooler / denser and give better performance that way. PSI is not the only thing that makes bhp. What size intercooler core do you have? -
Hi Frankie, I can't confirm if it fits the 4efte without touching the power steering bracket or air conditioning. I posted the dimensions so you can measure the engine you have to see if it fits. Dutchie has bought one and he can tell you for sure when he has test fitted it. The bottom adapter in that picture fits into the oil pan drain hole and puts the temperature sensor under the car. The sensor is a bit closer to the road (can get hit on speed humps) than I would like. If you want to use the engine block oil pressure sensor port with the MLR adapter shown in the picture above, as far as I know it will have an 1/8bspt on the end and a 1/8npt on the side. The Toyota sensor is 1/8 bspt. The gauge sensors for temperature and pressure will be 1/8 npt. You have to think which sensor will fit in which hole because the temperature sensor needs extra depth and may not fit in the 1/8npt on the side, it may have to go in the end and then you will need 1/8bspt on the side for the Toyota pressure sensor! In the setup below the threads of the ports are different. Red arrow = The original Toyota oil pressure sensor 1/8 bspt (on the side) Green arrow = The gauge oil pressure sensor usually 1/8 npt (on the side) Blue arrow = The gauge oil temperature sensor usually 1/8 npt (needs extra length so must fit in the end!) Orange arrow = these male and female threads must match. You need to check which sensor threads you have and where they must fit on the adapter (side or end) and then you can choose the correct adapters. It would be easier to copy akayakpotter's setup with the Toyota pressure sensor and gauge pressure sensor on the remote hose adapter from MLR. Then the oil temperature sensor in the oil filter relocation port with the adapter if there is room without restricting oil flow. James G also has the temperature sensor in the oil filter relocation port.
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I've had a look on the 4efe I have and there isn't a huge amount of space to fit this type of adapter and then the Toyota sensor in the end as the sensor or wiring plug may hit the clutch slave pipe. Also the wiring plug may not reach the sensor: The adapter with hose that akayakpotter suggested will be fine as it relocates the adapter at the end of a hose. Or there is an oil filter sandwich plate (D1 spec) that may fit without modding the power steering pump bracket. 3/4" UNF 16 tpi thread. Outer diameter of housing = 74mm, Inner diameter of housing = 54mm, Housing thickness (not including O-ring) = 28mm, O-ring seal outer diameter = 68mm, O-ring seal inner diameter = 60mm. @Frankieflowers @RoyalDutchie
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Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (R.I.P. the Nanza)
Claymore replied to Claymore's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Xmas update, managed to buy a Mig welder off a friend as he had upgraded his. Needed a clean but otherwise good condition and I've used it in the past so I know it welded fine. Also needed a few accessories to bring it up to snuff, new tips, gas shroud, earth clamp. Also needed gloves; a magnetic square is always useful. Also got a D1 spec oil filter sandwich plate (I see you on the other forum! ) and thought I'd measure it up for anyone interested in the sizes. 3/4" UNF 16 tpi thread. It's very nicely made as well. Need to check how well a filter mates to it as they are a universal product. Outer diameter of housing = 74mm, Inner diameter of housing = 54mm, Housing thickness (not including O-ring) = 28mm, O-ring seal outer diameter = 68mm, O-ring seal inner diameter = 60mm. -
Good work, merry xmas dude.
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Every day's a school day mate, we never stop learning. Don't forget the forum is here to help if we know what your up to!
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Don't suppose you measured the base circle of the cam lobes? Trying to get confirmation it's 34mm for another thread. Did you need many new shims or were you able to swap about the ones you had to get the clearances correct? The only mod currently on mine is the rolla manifold and it improved low down torque, also has better pickup at the top end to limiter (no rev counter!) but it also feels like it has a rich/flat spot in the mid range that makes top end feel more pronounced. Need to check what cam mine has in it. Any pics of the install?
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The 4efe wiring for the instrument cluster is different, but the wires can be re-arranged in the plugs to work or use the correct clocks for the loom. There may be more differences. Not sure about the Glanza
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Approved. What size turbo are you running?
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TURBOROLLA (4efe to 4efte ep91) SWAP
Claymore replied to Frankieflowers's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Looking forward to this Frankie, great work on the rear disc conversion as well. Don't forget to copy and paste a link to the other thread. π -
Georgeβs ep82 gt turbo build
Claymore replied to Georgehburroww's topic in EP80/EP82 Progress Blogs
Nice to see another build thread starting. It looks great in black. π -
Just make sure you get the right oil classification for the box. Some of the results for SAE80W-90, 97305 show equivalent oils as GL-1 which isn't suitable. Is it suitable for LSD boxes? I know that helical and plate types differ. I've always had good results from Redline products in non-lsd gearboxes if it helps. Trevstar has had his gears superfinished, might be able to help.
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My widearch build :) ****UPDATE 6/3/22******
Claymore replied to enots's topic in EP80/EP82 Progress Blogs
The previous bodyshop really did a number on that. Well done for sticking with it, so much effort but it'll be worth it. -
This just turned up on Facebook market place.
Claymore replied to Claymore's topic in eBay, BidJDM, Yahoo Auction Finds
Looks like it got sold on and fragged: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175043054769?hash=item28c1610cb1:g:Po4AAOSwvClhpOe4 -
This π The heater core is just a small radiator inside the heater box/cabin. It should get as hot as the coolant is in the engine. If the core is cold it is either blocked (or the feed pipes are?), incorrectly re-cored (hopefully they got it right!) or air locked. If the core is hot as the engine coolant then its the heater box flaps not directing the core heat into the cabin correctly. Start by checking if the core gets hot as Dutchie said.
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