Claymore

Good Stuff, always nice to get confirmation from the Toyota manual.

Hmmmm Type R rep or Sleeper? You know my vote

Well done for checking the sills out mate, sometimes you have to know! They don't look too bad. Flow formed = big win. Used to have a set Team dynamics pro race rims on a previous car as they were forged many years ago, unfortunately it seems that their alloys are now all low pressure die cast unless you have an Elise. Bought any bits for the Honda yet.... is it d16 powered?

Same colour as mine. Know what you mean, mines partly sun faded to light blue metallic but depending on the lighting conditions it can still look quite purple sometimes! The Minidisc head unit I have has a failed display so not the best for trying to figure out what's going on whilst driving, I'll keep that for home use. Might do as Burty has and get a working mobile player and then I can connect it to a mechless head unit via aux in as well as mp3 on sd card. bluetooth etc. Still currently rocking the original Toyota tape deck too!

Head looks really clean mate. Good choice for going with the uprated springs and studs. More boost? 😈

Nice to see another build thread starting. Wheels really suit it mate and Sleepers rule. Is it Purplish blue metallic paint (8K9)?

Actually liking the colour the more I see it. Haven't commented on your build for a while mate, but there's some great work going on. Really great eye for detail.

For those that don't know:

I've checked and the info came from the 4efe section of the Haynes 92-97 corolla workshop manual: I always thought they went at 12 o'clock but not for 4efe apparently. Might be worth asking Jay on the tgtt forum if he can see it in his Official Toyota manuals for 4efte.

The thermostat can only fit in the housing one way but you need to turn it so the jiggle pin is in the correct place. I used the 5efe build manual (Edit: it was actually the Haynes manual) and it said to turn the thermostat so the jiggle pin lines up with the square step on the cap: The radiator shouldn't affect it. More efficient radiators can reduce coolant temps more quickly and handle higher loads but the thermo regulates the minimum temp of the coolant. It keeps the coolant at 82 deg C (at cruise) and this heated coolant is sent to the heater matrix from the head side of the thermo housing. If the thermo is broken it will over cool, but a working thermostat will keep the coolant in the engine at a minimum of 82 deg C.

I can only think to check the thermostat is functional and not stuck open. It's a normal opening temperature thermo and not a low temp aftermarket item. The thermostats have a jiggle pin on them so when the thermo is installed it needs to be the correct orientation or it is difficult to bleed the air bubbles out. I read a helpful topic on this forum about bleeding the system: and basically, engine cold and off, heater to hot setting, with the rad filled and the overflow bottle connected and filled to the full mark. Remove the rad cap and push your palm down on the rad filler neck to seal the top. Then squeeze and release the upper and lower radiator hoses to "pump" the coolant round the system. Squeezing pushes the coolant around and the air out into the overflow bottle (bubbling occurs) and when you release the hose it draws in coolant from the bottle to replace the air. Repeated until there was no bubbling. Rad cap off, started engine, ran up to temp. fan cuts in and out, bottom hose hot, engine off, rad cap on, leave to cool. The system should refill with coolant from the overflow if necessary. Hope it helps.

Free sample! Niiiiiice. The -6 at the end is the colour reference for the plastic housing. Grey, white yellow etc. Also "my dogs" ask me to post this:

Great to see the progress mate. Hopefully ready for the summer 🤞

Great progress Frankie The 4efte ECU female connector and the male plugs are made by a company called TE automotive / AMP. From my research it should be a 54 pin Multilock connector. Part number: 175448 When I made a patch harness for my piggyback install on a 4efe (different plugs/socket to 4efte ECU) Royal dutchie and RobSR told me about them. I bought mine from RS components. Unfortunately the 54 pin Glanza female ECU socket was only sold in batches of 10 and RS has discontinued them. 😡 RobSR at RaceCal Ltd. had some available last time I spoke with him. He might be able to sell you just the one socket.

Small update for today. Re-fitted the rear arb and manage to strip the thread on one of the U-bolts. Didn't need much to do it in. Thankfully a neighbour of mine had donated some exhaust U-bolt clamps to me a while ago and one was the correct 75mm Diameter (bottom in photo) so I cleaned it up and used that instead. Also noticed that the silicone hose I'd used for the PCV breather was "sweating" some oil out of it in use. Hoped it would be ok but un-lined silicone is porous and of course it leaked. I've ordered some more suitable replacement to fit with the cam cover refurb.

Wow dude you weren't joking. There are many Glanza owners out there currently crossing their fingers 🤞.

The part number for the TPS should be : 89452-16020 Might be worth double checking what yours has on it. The auto's were different but they had 4 pins not 3. Either the loom or TPS is wrong obviously just a question of which?! *Edit: that looks like it could be the alternator plug with the wire that bolts to the alternator? Maybe?

Wow, that's a pretty big resto mate. I know you didn't get to inspect it, but did the seller atleast tell you about the condition before you bought it? All the best with the work ahead, it'll be great when its repaired.

Yes mate, Mini discs were awesome. CD quality recording and cassette tape convenience. I always thought the discs themselves were cool as an object, so futuristic 😍 Currently using my old Sony Xplod head unit hooked up at home from the audio outs powered by a 240/12v dc adapter. Still have my old recorder even though the mic/optical jack is toast for sentimental reasons. Nakamichi used to be the ultimate stereo though. Would love an old shool Nakimichi MD single din.

I think you've already discovered the problems, when the screen tilts back it would contact the centre fascia above it in the upper din slot (possibly in the lower too). A 3d printed collar could space it out but wouldn't look great. If mounted in the lower slot the screen may contact the gearstick when it comes out. I'm sure you're aware but you can get a mechless, bluetooth enabled single din head unit for silly cheap nowadays if you don't care about brand names and I'm sure I've seen branded ones for less than a £100. Does everything you want without the hassle. Still thinking about installing an old Sony mini disc head unit in mine from back in the day. Lol

Thanks mate

Not really a huge update but took Nanza for an MOT and I always like to remove the Rear ARB in case the tester gets lazy and decides to jack it up on the D bushes to check the wheel bearings etc. Can safely say that the corrosion resistance is not the best on the whiteline product. I only drove it once on a gritted / salted road last year and maybe on a couple of damp days so the level of white rust and red rust is pretty bad considering. Thankfully the threads are still usable. Also with all the fuel shortage business I had to drain some from the tank for other more important uses. Read an old thread on the forum about running the fuel pump from the diagnostic socket when the engine is off. Disconnected the return fuel line and plugged the hose to the tank and ran a new hose to a fuel can from the fuel rail return. If you connect the FP and +B pins in the diagnostic port the fuel pump will run when the ignition is turned to position 2. I made a switched bridging connection so I could turn off the fuel pump from inside the engine bay rather than having to run round to the ignition switch to control it. Obviously fuel is dangerous so don't do any of this! All washed up ready for winter storage.

But surely you have the base circle dimensions already measured with a caliper otherwise you can't know the difference in lift? So why not post up the info? ------------------------------------------------ I'll use Enzo's dimensions from the second thread link as they're complete and virtually correlate with yours and the other threads: gen2 4efe (small) = 40.85 - 34.05 = 6.8mm lobe lift 4efte & 5efe (medium) = 41.6 - 34.05 = 7.55mm lobe lift 5efhe (large) = 42.4 - 34.0 = 8.4mm lobe lift To be honest it looks like the factory base circle is around 34mm from all the threads I've researched but you still need to know the actual dimension for the one you're measuring to be certain. I'll measure mine soon and post up the results.

Sounds feasible. Any news on the base circle dimensions of the cams you measured in the first post?