Claymore

I did find that diagram in the EP91 4efte EPC https://toyota.epc-data.com/starlet/ep91/61052/electric/8719/88444/ but when you click on it the site said it was not compatible with the vehicle. Checked the EP82 and it is listed but as you say NLA from the dealer. However, when you look at the engine for sale in the eBay ad it doesn't look like the bracket above. It looks to me like an EP82 PAS lower adjuster bracket with an idler pulley bolted through. Not a vertical sliding pulley bracket with separate tensioner bolt. I can't seem to find this setup in the Toyota

Nice one, Found this in the EPC : Can't find the parts page for the idler setup though, do you have a link? Looks like a 'mare to adjust, do you just pull to tension or is it sprung loaded or eccentric bolt?

Continuing the theme of Weird ass 4efte / not a 4efte bitsa engines!? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374042202483?epid=652485202&hash=item5716a71173:g:JjEAAOSw2ypiZ6DI Doesn't look too bad until you get to the PAS bracket "mod" to keep A/C and delete the pas pump, 4efe dizzy, coil, 2 plug 4efe ECU (other 2 ECU loom plugs appear to have been cut off and replaced with piggy back plug connections), forward facing thermostat cap from an auto?! Think I'll pass on that

As far as I understand the emissions test a high lambda reading usually indicates an exhaust leak letting in air (oxygen) and it then shows up on the MOT testers O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe tip where they take the reading. I'd check the exhaust for leaks at all the joints, (especially the new back box) and also for holes in the pipes. Could be the engine genuinely running lean, but the other readings should show that.

Nice work! Love the injector sub loom, the labels really make it look awesome.

N/A clocks or Glanza clocks also which year are they from?

Do you have photographs of the teflon seal? Any measurements? You might be able to find a similar seal or have a custom one made.

Awesome

Hey Frankie all I can really offer is a copy of the European 96/97 Starlet 4efe wiring diagrams from the official Toyota workshop manual. It may be different to the 98/99 models and also the wiring may be different to the Jap models (glanza)! Also the auto climate controls found in the Glanza will probably be different aswell! For what use it is: Heater controls Fan / motor / relay wiring: (Use RHD side of diagram only) German version: RHD only Check if any of the wire colours match and then start tracing the wires to relays and see if they

I'm sure the 4 pin tps does have an idle contact (see diagram a few post up) then it is a variable resistance sensor when it's off idle. It needs to be set up with feeler gauges. Ask Jay if he will look in the official Toyota manual for the 4efte auto procedure. The access to the TPS screws is limited (might be easier in the corolla). You can try to loosen them as it is on the car. From my experience the screws will have corroded into the throttle body and you will have difficulty turning them. Try it and see mate, but don't round them off.

It's best practice to disconnect the battery before working on the electronics to prevent shorts / sparking problems. There must also be a procedure for calibrating the new tps compared to throttle opening angle so the idle contact only connects at idle, as soon as the throttle is open a fraction the idle contact must open. Loosen screws, turn tps, check for continuity, feeler gauges etc..?

Here too...

The things people get up to when they have their own dyno

There may be a genuine reason for the delay, but it sounds like you've been more than reasonable anyway. If you bought on eBay your covered as they guarantee your item or a refund. If you want to start the process go to the item in your account, click "I didn't receive my item" and check the I want a refund box. eBay will then contact the supplier to respond. After a few days, if its not sorted then you can ask eBay to step in (there's a button to click) and they force the refund for you. Hope you get sorted.

Great stuff mate, nice and tidy.

Found this on another forum.... From the diagram looks like the idle contact is a switch. Test between E2-IDL with continuity setting (beeeeeeeep when at idle, open circuit off idle position) Test between VTA-VC with resistance setting (resistance should change smoothly as the throttle is turned.) That's how I would test it. The EP82 4efte use 89452-14020 for 89-92 The EP82 / EP91 4efte use 89452-22090 for 92-99

FYI never inspected an actual 4efte TPS. This info is from ECU pinouts and forum posts and my experience with the EP91 4efe TPS. As far as I know the Automatic 4efte uses a potentiometer (variable resistance) style throttle position sensor. But the ECU pinouts also mention an idle sensor (switch?). So it may have a switch to show closed throttle and variable resistance for throttle angle. 9 E2 = Sensor earth 10 VTA / PSW = Throttle angle (fte Auto) / Full throttle (switch, fte manual) 11 VCC = 5v power 12 IDL = Idle position (throttle closed) How many contac

Yeah, it was cheap too. Shame Toyota didn't think to put the 20v blacktop in it at the factory though.

Looks like a G6 breaker, maybe worth fragging to get the engine and g'box or fix up: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255384752523?hash=item3b761e118b:g:YIEAAOSwbU9iCTW7 Not sure what to make of this one but thought I'd post it up: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275139724642?hash=item400f9b0562:g:9W0AAOSw6WZh8Ybi

Great to see progress

Toyota have special tools something like this: They push down on the bucket pushing the valve down and then you can change the shim. I have seen it done with the cams in place but its not easy without the special tools and you could damage parts. Get the clearances measured first. Then we will think about fixing things!

Hey Frankie, don't blame yourself. Depending on what machining work was done to the head and if the workshop put the same valves, buckets and shims back in the same positions will determine if and how bad the clearances are now. Whatever happened in the past, I would now check the clearances to be safe. Measuring the clearance is easy all you need are feeler gauges, pen and paper. Once you know the clearances you have, you can then check them against Toyota specification. If any clearances are out of specification you then need to swap / replace shims to make the clearances cor

I doubt that it would cause a problem Frankie. I didn't remove the + from my manifold, I only smoothed the edges. If you look at all the cheap tubular manifolds and the one from Tuning developments they don't have a + in the turbo side. They seem to work fine (until the cheap ones crack). There are a lot of things that it could be Frankie. I'll just throw them up here. If the turbo was making funny noises that's where I would start. Might be worth removing the turbo to inspect it. Are the blades on the wheels ok? Does the turbine shaft have a lot of movement? Does it spin

Nope, I posted up some info about 4efe corolla cams but it didn't really add anything to the topic so I changed my mind and deleted the text but you can't delete the post so I posted a dot. Lol. Still need to change one of the spark plug tube seals in my cam cover so I'll measure my cams then.

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