Claymore

Also If you look at enzo's post on the last page from 2013 it looks like he found and measured the "small" and "medium" cams. Although the engines they came from may be wrong. Not sure about the info in the rest of the thread.

Found the 5efhe inlet cam base circle dimension from the pics Trevstar posted on your build thread. gen2 4efe = 40.7 - ??? = lobe lift 4efte & 5efe = 41.5 - ??? = lobe lift 5efhe = 42.4 - 34.0 = 8.4mm lobe lift (thanks @trevstar) If you can update this thread with the base circle dimensions for the 4efe and 4efte cam you measured above it will help people when trying to find them. The concern that in the past these cams would have been swapped about between engines is a real one, so knowing the dimensions of the "small", "medium" and "high" lift cam dimensions is even more important. The more threads I read about this the more opinions there are! I've checked a few threads back over the years and there have been reports of three lift versions. If you read the post from 2014 below by "motion" he also thinks there is a difference. It pretty much lines up with the above for base + lobe lift dimension. There aren't any base circle numbers quoted though so its not confirmation of any lobe lift difference either. He may have checked or not? At the end of the day dimensions don't lie (unless the cam is worn 😨), so having the base + lobe, base, lobe lift dimensions will help greatly when purchasing. Might have to measure my 4efe cams when I change the spark plug tube seals in the cam cover. More examples people can measure the better. Maybe mine has the 4efte cam as well as the 4et crank 😆. It only has 42k miles on it so hopefully won't be worn. Also if anyone has a dyno graph of a (EP91 UKDM) gen2 4efe with corolla intake manifold fitted and then a dyno graph after switching to the 4efte cam please add them to this thread. I feel this is the route most N/A guys would take as far as bolt-on / drop in tuning parts. Obviously piston to valve clearance will change too.

Thanks for the info, do you have the base circle dimensions for the cams so I can work out the actual lobe lift? gen2 4efe = 40.7 - ??? = lobe lift 4efte & 5efe = 41.5 - ??? = lobe lift 5efhe = 42.4 - ??? = lobe lift (@trevstar?) Would be nice to have the gen1 and gen3 4efe cam dimensions as well. You never know, the gen1 4efe inlet cam may be the same as the 4efte and that may solve the riddle as to why people think they're the same!? Also is there any info regarding the duration of each cam and overlap of these cams with their original exhaust partners or the 4efe exhaust cam for all? We know that generally speaking turbo cams have little to no overlap compared to N/A's which like some overlap up to a point. Would be interesting to see if the higher revving N/A cams had different duration / overlap to the low rpm N/A plodders torque monsters. Or better still some dyno results before and after to show the results? At the end of the day, that's really all that matters. I think it's really going to be a choice between gen2 4efe, gen3 4efe or the 4efte cam simply because of availability of parts nowadays.

Don't see many early models about and a manual gearbox. Still slightly over the top price wise I think but would be cool to own. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373745286664?hash=item5704f47e08:g:3D8AAOSwuNhhU5cR Also, anyone know what happened to the slightly ratty white Starlet SR that was on eBay? Scotland bound maybe?! 🤔

1* can you photograph this pipe connection at the pipe and at the engine please. See highlighted text. As far as I know there should be a vent pipe from the tank to the canister to transfer the fuel vapours. Then a pipe from the canister to the TVV valve (blue plastic valve on thermo housing on 4efe starlet): Did your corolla 4efe have the same TVV valve or was it an electronic solenoid? A pipe goes from the TVV valve to the throttle body / intake to draw the fuel vapours out of the canister when the engine is above 53 deg C. There is also a vent pipe on the bottom of the cannister to draw in and expel clean air, so the canister has 3 pipes on it. So the fuel pump primes at ignition on, please check the pump wire voltage at the tank plug on priming to see if it is low. Also check pump wire voltage at tank plug on starting to see if the voltage drops when you try to start the engine. If the fuel pressure regulator is bad then you will need to fit a fuel pressure gauge to see if the system builds fuel pressure. They are usually pretty reliable though. How well does the engine run when it finally starts?

I've found some info on the charcoal canister for you from the Haynes workshop manual: Also from the Toyota Corolla owners manual: The first diagram shows what happens with tank under vacuum / pressure and with engine running and at different engine temps etc. The Toyota corolla owners manual describes a similar scenario. Looks like with the tank under vacuum air is led into the tank through the fuel filler cap check valve and no.3 canister check valve to prevent issues. With the tank under pressure the vapours are forced into the charcoal canister then led to the engine to be burned. (swoosh noise when opening the cap = small amount of pressure in tank / blow). You can sometimes hear the vapours going into the can after a drive, open bonnet and listen for buzzing, sounded like an electrical short the first time I heard it! The only way to get in tank vacuum with the charcoal canister removed is if the check valve in the fuel cap is faulty and the vent pipe to the canister is blocked off (bad idea). So then its the question of fitting a check valve in the vent line (away from the engine bay) that allows vapours in and out but also prevents fuel spill. Fuel pressure will drop overnight, some cars prime the fuel pump at key in ignition position to supply fuel to the rail / regulator and get to the required pressure before cranking. Some don't. The fuel pump should have a one way valve built in also to reduce drain back. If all you changed was the engine and canister I doubt the canister removal caused the problem as you said it is blow and not vacuum. Could be the fuel pressure regulator or pump not priming. I did ask if any glanza owners new if the pump was supposed to prime but no answer. Also what is the voltage at the fuel pump when trying to start the engine the first time? Is it low voltage that then increases?

Sounds correct to me, I've done a bit of research into it and attached some pics from the 4efe UK owners manual for future reference: The first diagram shows what happens with tank under vacuum / pressure and with engine running and at different engine temps. The starlet 4efe owners manual describes similar scenario. Looks like with the tank under vacuum air is led into the tank through the fuel filler cap check valve and no.3 canister check valve to prevent issues. With the tank under pressure the vapours are forced into the charcoal canister then led to the engine to be burned. (swoosh noise when opening the cap = small amount of pressure in tank).

Only £315 pounds less than he's asking! 🙄 😲 This 👆

Hey Frankie, The filter for the cam cover pipe needs to be a "12mm crank case breather filter" there are lots on eBay. You need to remove the factory BOV, blank off the hole in the EFI pipe and fit a new BOV to the rubber hose on the turbo hot pipe (the one that goes from the turbo to the intercooler). Please post a picture of your BOV showing the broken piece. The not starting after a 24hr rest does sound like fuel pressure problem. It could be many things causing it. Any Glanza owners out there know if the fuel pump is supposed to prime at key ignition on, engine off? Or only starts to pump with key in cranking position? Could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Is the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator connected? Also why have you removed the charcoal canister setup? EDIT: Have you tried loosening / removing the fuel filler cap and then starting the car after 24hrs rest? Maybe there is a vacuum created in the tank overnight as the fuel cools? Be very careful when playing with Fuel!

Great attention to detail mate, she'll be amazing when it's finished. A true step back in time for you and the SR. Approved

Looks good Frankie 👍

The Nuts are m 8 x 1.25mm. Get some strong, thick washers as well because the Tuning developments downpipe holes are very big and the nuts can pull in!

I'm simply trying to help Frankie make an informed decision by adding info I feel is relevant. The more info on the forum to help people the better.

I am already aware of the gains from removing the restrictive "EFI" pipe, airbox and piping to reduce the upstream pressure drop created by them (as are most people on the forum by now I think?) Sock filters are best left to itb trumpets in my opinion and the amount of oil used by ITG on the panel filter I had on a previous car was ridiculous and it dripped out coating the bottom of the airbox (not good for a turbo to ingest). It is important for a cone filter to have a trumpet base also to help gather more air than a straight pipe, good performance gains here. Element / filter area of significant size to reduce the pressure drop of filter and also to choose the correct media (stainless gauze, foam or cotton.) The bigger the better as far as I'm concerned, more surface = less restriction and balance the size of filter against the material to get the correct flow depending on room in the bay. Also be careful the silicone pipes and couplers don't suck flat, it is often best to use aluminium pipe as much as possible with minimal silicone to prevent this. Not usually a problem until the Turbo is larger and sucking hard but worth considering. Yes, the Turbo intake pipe (TIP as commonly referred to in other circles) is nicknamed the EFI pipe as some models had 16 valve EFI sticker on them. I also don't think the cover on the intercooler is the Turbo because it has a sticker that says turbo 😉. Hope your family member is recovering well.

Looks fine in this picture? Did it break later on? Nice work on the power steering High pressure hose, looks very professional.

That's not a "hot pipe" it's the "EFI" pipe and it's the intake tube for the turbo. A "hot pipe" is the pipe carrying hot compressed air from the compressor housing of the turbo to the intercooler. "Cold Pipe" is the pipe carrying cooled air from the intercooler to the throttle body. You can leave the EFI pipe in place and blank off the mounting hole whilst fitting a breather to the rocker cover and an atmospheric dump valve to the hot pipe. http://jamesdrake13.blogspot.com/2012/03/how-to-install-monza-ssqv-blow-off.html This way no boost creep by removing the EFi pipe, fixed problem. Or: I would get the car running with as close to standard setup for now and then look at modifying and improving slowly over time. It becomes a spiralling project where you end up changing everything as you go along and it takes a long time and costs alot of money. Its up to you as its your car. The cheapest way would be to just fit a standard dump valve to replace the broken one. Wiring, I hate to state the obvious but are these wires important (green circle)? Also when using an Automatic ECU and wiring loom I think you have to bridge some wires relating to the gear selector position wiring? Something about sending a signal to the ECU to tell it the gearbox is in Park or neutral or it won't let the car start? I think you have already found this information in an earlier post but did you do it?

Is everything alright mate? Thought I saw this for sale on FB marketplace a few weeks ago. 😥

Hi Frankie, This is the Toyota oil pressure sensor for the light on the instrument cluster. As far as I know there is no oil temperature sensor as standard. This is the MAP sensor (Turbo pressure, 2 bar rating) for the toyota ECU. It is already connected to the correct port on the inlet manifold.

Have them on mine and they're fine for road use. They bite well from cold as well, not too dusty either. Have had ferodo DS2500 on a previous car and compared to the equivalent greenstuffs and Pagid Blues the ds2500's weren't great when cold. Personally I wouldn't bother with dimpled / drilled and grooved and stick with a quality plain disc.

Filth! Can't wait to see her restored. I saw it on the bay and I think it was the drivers front lower control arm body mount looked a bit crusty? Anywho you know you have a car addiction when you have a car transport company you use! Looks very interesting with the roof rails and sliding roof

This is turning into a clusterfuck! We'll be here until Xmas. If your using the 4efte pump: The Corolla Power steering feed line from bottle to pump should fit the 4efte pump. The connections look the same in the pictures. No modification needed. Or make a hose. Blue circle on diagram. The Corolla low pressure return line from the rack to the bottle. Already in place and working. no modification needed. Red outline on diagram. The High pressure hose is the one that needs modification. Green outline. If using the corolla hose the 4efte pump fitting is different to the corolla. The 4efte pump is a banjo fitting and the corolla looks like a flare fitting. You will need an adapter on the pump to go from banjo thread to flare fitting. Grey circle on diagram If you use the 4efte high pressure hose the pump end is good but the rack end is wrong (assuming its long enough to reach the rack). From the diagram it looks like the corolla hose at the rack end is female thread and the 4efte hose end will be a male flare. So you will need an adapter to join 4efte male hose end to the male pipe fitting on rack. Orange circles on diagram. If you can't find an adapter you can cut the 2 hoses, use the 4efte pump end and the corolla rack end and have a hydraulic hose repair shop join the pieces together with a swaged / crimped hose repair joiner. Or have the hose shop make a custom hose for you. The best idea is to talk to a hydraulic hose repair shop (forklift trucks etc) and show them the pump and hoses and ask them what adapter you need. I don't think anyone on this forum has done this swap before so we are all learning together and trying our best but unless we know the exact fittings then we can't suggest one. The whole point in using the corolla pump was because it has the idle up valve on it to stop the engine losing revs whilst steering. If you use the 4efte pump you will lose this feature as it doesn't have one.

This is why I asked what clutch you bought. The corolla manual flywheel is the same part number as the EP91 starlet 4efe flywheel and as the 4efte flywheel can be swapped with them it should be fine. The 4efte clutch is 212mm and the corolla and starlet 4efe is 200mm so you need a 4efte flywheel or an uprated 4efe clutch to go with the flywheel you have. Also I think the bolts for the auto flex plate are shorter than manual ones but I need to check the part numbers.

The engine is also from an automatic car. You will need a manual flywheel as the engine has an automatic flex plate. What clutch did you buy? Which gearbox are you using? The power steering only has 3 fluid pipes. High pressure hose from pump to the rack, low pressure hose from the rack to bottle and a feed hose from bottle to pump. The corolla low pressure return line from rack to bottle can be left alone (its already fitted to the car where it needs to be and already returns oil to the bottle). The high pressure pipe will be more complicated as it can't just be cut and lengthened because it is high pressure, it may need a specialist to make a hose (hydraulic maker like Pirtek) or there may be an adapter to connect the glanza hose to the metal pipework at the rack. The feed hose from the bottle to pump can be easily made from suitable hose. Which pump are you going to use the glanza one or the corolla one?

I've put some answers bold and underlined in the quote above. Be aware, I don't have a Glanza and haven't engine swapped one either. If you have the engine, try laying the loom on it and connecting the plugs up to the sensors. Sometimes the plugs only fit one sensor and the length of wire is only long enough to reach one sensor anyway.

Most people use a 10w 40 fully synthetic oil for general road use in "normal" climate temps. I like an SL rating as it has the most amount of zinc to help reduce wear on the valve shims these engines have but that is an old standard now and most newer standards have less zinc but more of other additives to help reduce wear, so it doesn't really matter which brand you get. Glad you found the clutch. Exedy do a good standard clutch that I'm told is good for up to 180ps.