Claymore

Also If you look at enzo's post on the last page from 2013 it looks like he found and measured the "small" and "medium" cams. Although the engines they came from may be wrong. Not sure about the info in the rest of the thread.

Found the 5efhe inlet cam base circle dimension from the pics Trevstar posted on your build thread. gen2 4efe = 40.7 - ??? = lobe lift 4efte & 5efe = 41.5 - ??? = lobe lift 5efhe = 42.4 - 34.0 = 8.4mm lobe lift (thanks @trevstar) If you can update this thread with the base circle dimensions for the 4efe and 4efte cam you measured above it will help people when trying to find them. The concern that in the past these cams would have been swapped about between engines is a real one, so knowing the dimensions of the "small", "medium" and "high" lift cam dimensions

Thanks for the info, do you have the base circle dimensions for the cams so I can work out the actual lobe lift? gen2 4efe = 40.7 - ??? = lobe lift 4efte & 5efe = 41.5 - ??? = lobe lift 5efhe = 42.4 - ??? = lobe lift (@trevstar?) Would be nice to have the gen1 and gen3 4efe cam dimensions as well. You never know, the gen1 4efe inlet cam may be the same as the 4efte and that may solve the riddle as to why people think they're the same!? Also is there any info regarding the duration of each cam and overlap of these cams with their original exhaust partners or th

Don't see many early models about and a manual gearbox. Still slightly over the top price wise I think but would be cool to own. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373745286664?hash=item5704f47e08:g:3D8AAOSwuNhhU5cR Also, anyone know what happened to the slightly ratty white Starlet SR that was on eBay? Scotland bound maybe?! 🤔

1* can you photograph this pipe connection at the pipe and at the engine please. See highlighted text. As far as I know there should be a vent pipe from the tank to the canister to transfer the fuel vapours. Then a pipe from the canister to the TVV valve (blue plastic valve on thermo housing on 4efe starlet): Did your corolla 4efe have the same TVV valve or was it an electronic solenoid? A pipe goes from the TVV valve to the throttle body / intake to draw the fuel vapours out of the canister when the engine is above 53 deg C. There is also a vent pipe on the bottom of

I've found some info on the charcoal canister for you from the Haynes workshop manual: Also from the Toyota Corolla owners manual: The first diagram shows what happens with tank under vacuum / pressure and with engine running and at different engine temps etc. The Toyota corolla owners manual describes a similar scenario. Looks like with the tank under vacuum air is led into the tank through the fuel filler cap check valve and no.3 canister check valve to prevent issues. With the tank under pressure the vapours are forced into the charcoal canister then

Sounds correct to me, I've done a bit of research into it and attached some pics from the 4efe UK owners manual for future reference: The first diagram shows what happens with tank under vacuum / pressure and with engine running and at different engine temps. The starlet 4efe owners manual describes similar scenario. Looks like with the tank under vacuum air is led into the tank through the fuel filler cap check valve and no.3 canister check valve to prevent issues. With the tank under pressure the vapours are forced into the charcoal canister then led to the engine to be burned. (s

Only £315 pounds less than he's asking! 🙄 😲 This 👆

Hey Frankie, The filter for the cam cover pipe needs to be a "12mm crank case breather filter" there are lots on eBay. You need to remove the factory BOV, blank off the hole in the EFI pipe and fit a new BOV to the rubber hose on the turbo hot pipe (the one that goes from the turbo to the intercooler). Please post a picture of your BOV showing the broken piece. The not starting after a 24hr rest does sound like fuel pressure problem. It could be many things causing it. Any Glanza owners out there know if the fuel pump is supposed to prime at key ignition on, engine off? Or only start

Great attention to detail mate, she'll be amazing when it's finished. A true step back in time for you and the SR. Approved

Looks good Frankie 👍

The Nuts are m 8 x 1.25mm. Get some strong, thick washers as well because the Tuning developments downpipe holes are very big and the nuts can pull in!

I'm simply trying to help Frankie make an informed decision by adding info I feel is relevant. The more info on the forum to help people the better.

I am already aware of the gains from removing the restrictive "EFI" pipe, airbox and piping to reduce the upstream pressure drop created by them (as are most people on the forum by now I think?) Sock filters are best left to itb trumpets in my opinion and the amount of oil used by ITG on the panel filter I had on a previous car was ridiculous and it dripped out coating the bottom of the airbox (not good for a turbo to ingest). It is important for a cone filter to have a trumpet base also to help gather more air than a straight pipe, good performance gains here. Element / filter area

Looks fine in this picture? Did it break later on? Nice work on the power steering High pressure hose, looks very professional.

That's not a "hot pipe" it's the "EFI" pipe and it's the intake tube for the turbo. A "hot pipe" is the pipe carrying hot compressed air from the compressor housing of the turbo to the intercooler. "Cold Pipe" is the pipe carrying cooled air from the intercooler to the throttle body. You can leave the EFI pipe in place and blank off the mounting hole whilst fitting a breather to the rocker cover and an atmospheric dump valve to the hot pipe. http://jamesdrake13.blogspot.com/2012/03/how-to-install-monza-ssqv-blow-off.html This way no boost creep by removing the EFi pipe, fixed p

Is everything alright mate? Thought I saw this for sale on FB marketplace a few weeks ago. 😥

Hi Frankie, This is the Toyota oil pressure sensor for the light on the instrument cluster. As far as I know there is no oil temperature sensor as standard. This is the MAP sensor (Turbo pressure, 2 bar rating) for the toyota ECU. It is already connected to the correct port on the inlet manifold.

Have them on mine and they're fine for road use. They bite well from cold as well, not too dusty either. Have had ferodo DS2500 on a previous car and compared to the equivalent greenstuffs and Pagid Blues the ds2500's weren't great when cold. Personally I wouldn't bother with dimpled / drilled and grooved and stick with a quality plain disc.

Filth! Can't wait to see her restored. I saw it on the bay and I think it was the drivers front lower control arm body mount looked a bit crusty? Anywho you know you have a car addiction when you have a car transport company you use! Looks very interesting with the roof rails and sliding roof

This is turning into a clusterfuck! We'll be here until Xmas. If your using the 4efte pump: The Corolla Power steering feed line from bottle to pump should fit the 4efte pump. The connections look the same in the pictures. No modification needed. Or make a hose. Blue circle on diagram. The Corolla low pressure return line from the rack to the bottle. Already in place and working. no modification needed. Red outline on diagram. The High pressure hose is the one that needs modification. Green outline. If using the corolla hose the 4efte pump fitting is differen

This is why I asked what clutch you bought. The corolla manual flywheel is the same part number as the EP91 starlet 4efe flywheel and as the 4efte flywheel can be swapped with them it should be fine. The 4efte clutch is 212mm and the corolla and starlet 4efe is 200mm so you need a 4efte flywheel or an uprated 4efe clutch to go with the flywheel you have. Also I think the bolts for the auto flex plate are shorter than manual ones but I need to check the part numbers.

The engine is also from an automatic car. You will need a manual flywheel as the engine has an automatic flex plate. What clutch did you buy? Which gearbox are you using? The power steering only has 3 fluid pipes. High pressure hose from pump to the rack, low pressure hose from the rack to bottle and a feed hose from bottle to pump. The corolla low pressure return line from rack to bottle can be left alone (its already fitted to the car where it needs to be and already returns oil to the bottle). The high pressure pipe will be more complicated as it can't just be cut and lengthened b

I've put some answers bold and underlined in the quote above. Be aware, I don't have a Glanza and haven't engine swapped one either. If you have the engine, try laying the loom on it and connecting the plugs up to the sensors. Sometimes the plugs only fit one sensor and the length of wire is only long enough to reach one sensor anyway.

Most people use a 10w 40 fully synthetic oil for general road use in "normal" climate temps. I like an SL rating as it has the most amount of zinc to help reduce wear on the valve shims these engines have but that is an old standard now and most newer standards have less zinc but more of other additives to help reduce wear, so it doesn't really matter which brand you get. Glad you found the clutch. Exedy do a good standard clutch that I'm told is good for up to 180ps.