Claymore

The reason for linking the videos of the det 3 install on the EP8? was to show the installation / settings and tuning of the piggyback nothing more. They are the most detailed videos available and were a great help to me getting to were I am and the information was well presented and accurate. At no point did I say the engine had the same management system as the EP91. If there were videos of this setup on the EP91 I would have used them instead, sadly there are not. I see that you have linked the same videos at the beginning of your build thread, so by your definition and behaviour this

Coming along nicely mate 👍

The reason I comment when I see posts like this is because you present these ideas as a "silver bullet" to fix a tuning problem (intentionally or not). In the above example, sometimes the important downsides / negative effects are overlooked / forgotten or missing for what ever reason. It fixes one problem but causes 3 more and you only mentioned 1 of these. For the less experienced reader, they are not presented with a balanced view / whole picture and may make decisions they regret.

Thought I'd add this link here to another thread about the det 3 wiring: Had to splice another couple of wires into the harness I made. Needed to splice the wideband O2 data out ground signal into the sensor ground (not chassis ground) on the ECU. It has to be the sensor ground or there will be an offset in the readout compared to the figure displayed on the gauge. Decided to splice in a length of wire to the harness and attach to that so it would be easier to add more sensor grounds in the future if necessary. Also spliced into the Intake air temp. sensor and connected it to the Pi

It looks like the B7 and B8 pins are now bridged, The IGF wire signal is now being sent to pins B7 and B8 on the ECU (ignition feed back from the B8 wire of the EP91 plug, B7 is empty on the EP91 plug). Essentially you are taking the engine management back a generation. To get rid of the variable TPS on the EP91? You'd need the 50mm fte TB (which you've already said in a previous post on a different thread will hurt drivability on an N/A+t.) The ignition conversion loom you said about earlier. There is also the IACV differences to deal with. The EP91 has the water heated e

Thanks mate, comments like this really mean a lot.

I've already said my opinion on this style of tuning on the other low boost thread. It seems at best to be a very old fashioned way of making something run at an OK level. Or get it wrong and ....... The modern piggy back is cheap, convenient and effective. It will have better fuelling control than the above method (nothing can be exact with a piggy back but it will be more accurate and easier to calibrate than mechanical tuning methods). It can also retard timing when necessary based on a table, something not addressed in your plan outlined above. If cost is the deciding factor then

At the beginning of the thread you said you thought it had an FCD. Glad it doesn't. This is the only reason I keep mentioning it. There were different types of FCD some people say they are a voltage clamp (i.e. no modifications of sensor signal output voltage until a set point and then the voltage is clamped at 4.5v for example). This removes boost cut but puts you in "no mans land", boost increases, no more voltage increase and no safety net. Too much boost, engine go boom. Some FCD's are a signal conditioner constantly, they remove a set amount of voltage throughout the sensor 0-5v

Next I chose the wires I would require and fitted them to the Piggy back ECU plug. I bought the ready made leads with contacts crimped on from ECUmaster to speed up the process. I also loaded the patch wires into the TE plugs, there is a plastic retaining clip to release first, slide wire in (listen for "click" of tab engagement) then close clip. The power and ground needed splicing into the patch wires, so the brass open barrel crimp was loaded into a different pair of "mighty" W crimp pliers. (the light duty ones wouldn't be up to the job) And the part stripped patch ha

Moving on to the wiring side of things I needed to make up the required number of patch wires to go from plugs to header. If it was a patch harness all the necessary wires would be installed and then you would cut into them (as if it were the car loom) and then plug it in between the car loom and ECU. It quickly turned into a plug n play loom. The only difference is the intercept wires for MAP sensor and ignition wires are attached directly to the plug and header instead of cutting into a patch wire. This removes some of the connections to improve reliability but will make the harness pig

ECUmaster DET3+ plug n play harness. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXtzCMs2b6Q Thought I'd make my own pnp harness for the det3 install to save chopping the car loom. Also makes it easier to work on / add connections to it rather than scrabbling around in the footwell.. First, a big thanks to RoyalDutchie and Rob SR at RaceCal Ltd. for their help and guidance. Purchased the necessary wiring loom plugs and the ECU header (socket). They are TE connectors and have 2 different sized receptacle contacts. These are unfortunately only available to buy by the 100. I needed

My main post was regarding the Toyota 1bar sensor and trying to use it on a 4efe+t. In response: If the Toyota Hylux sensor you are using (that says vacuum sensor on it) can see 1 bar atmos and 1 bar boost (2bar sensor) why is there a FCD fitted to the vehicle? If you boost more than 1bar then you will be in "no mans land" as I described above? Seems unnecessary unless it is to add an offset voltage to the signal if the AEM can't do it? Just seems weird. I remember reading in the Jeff Hartman book that some Honda map sensors (used on N/A) can read up to 0.8 bar boost. Looks like this

1 hour ago, Sam44 said: im also going to try and setup the output of the original map sensor to accept boost pressure like i did on the turboed civic d16y8. ----------------------------------------------------------------- The problems as I see them is, when the 1bar sensor reaches 0psi boost (1bar atmos, at sea level, relative humidity etc.) the signal produced is 5v. If it receives 1psi boost or 100 psi boost the voltage stays at 5v. The ECU has a fit at 5v so you can use an offset in the signal (say -1v) so now we hit boost, the signal is a constant 4v. This

I did think about the 1bar MAP sensor thing, not sure it can work if used for load. I'll put a post on the below thread to try and keep this one on topic.

Good shout on the IAT sensor for logging. I only have the Analogue input #4 left empty so could splice into it for the signal.

Yes, have got a timing gun. Might as well link these vids here (try and get some sort of database): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_z5hnVmlyuI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psa4l2wEOYs Setup I'm using for det3+, IGT (currently, may go VR) and Glanza 2 bar MAP fuel table modify= analog in #1 (Glanza 2 bar MAP sensor) load = analog in #1 (Glanza 2 bar MAP sensor) correction #1 = disable correction #2 = disable ignition load = analog in #1 (Glanza 2 bar MAP sensor) correction #1 = disable correction #2 = disable scale configuration analogue #1 = vw 200kp (2bar map. same scale as glanza sensor (I think) changes the table scale to bar instead of 0-5v. Need to compare to ac

Currently (IGT, no pullup) the car runs, has rpm signal (700rpm at hot idle) has ignition state as synchronized and moves the cursor around the map when throttle is applied. I haven't yet tried to adjust anything in the ignition table. Might be best to attach a timing light, pull out 10 deg at idle and see if the timing marks go from 10 btdc to 0 deg on pulley. At least I'll know if the timing is actually moving! Also, if I were to go the VR wiring route, does it matter which wire is used? NE or NE-? I'm fine with mechanicals but this is my first foray into engine management.

Stupid double post

Currently the NE and NE- aren't involved. Not tapped into and not intercepted. The Det 3 only has one ignition input and so you have to choose. I used the IGT signal as it seemed to fit with the diagrams relating to ignition module controlled by Toyota ECU found in the 4efe and the advice in this post: I also checked other piggy back wiring instructions (EMU) and it always said intercept the IGT and PIM to modify (4efte), splice into the other wires for reference values!?!? The analogue inputs are for 0-5v sensors i.e MAP, iat, tps etc. I am modifying the Toyota MAP signal whi

I've installed the det 3 in the Starlet today (97 model EP91 4efe) and made a plug n play harness also. I followed the diagram below (splicing the no3 pullup wire [2k to12v] into the no9 ignition wire) found in the instruction manual. Configured the setup menu's but the car wouldn't start. I checked everything twice before and after install, returned everything back to stock and it ran. Re-installed the piggyback and harness. The software client said Ignition status: no synch. So I depinned the no3 wire from the piggyback plug and the car fired up instantly on the next try and

4efte manifold lower bracket. Bought some m 8 x 20 flange head stainless bolts and shortened them to the required m 8 x 12 ish. The bracket is of very generous gauge steel so I also drilled it for lightness and painted satin black. Thankfully the manifold is now ready for install. 💪😃. Still need to mod the throttle cable / bracket but it'll be easier once the manifold is in with the throttle body attached.

4efte inlet manifold modification. So, with the plate made to fit the fe throttle body to the fte manifold I made some mods to the stock manifold to suit the build better. I won't be needing the IACV hole in the end of the plenum (could be used for a MAP sensor in the future however) So decided to block it off. It's an 11mm diameter hole. Bought an 11mm cup type mild steel core plug. It's an interference fit so needs to be hammered / pressed into place. I softened an appropriate size hex bit socket with masking tape and placed the cap on the end. With the outer surface coa

I personally prefer a new post for the progress as it happens. That way it's a free bump as well. If I can't remember what happened historically I can always go back and read the older posts. It's your blog mate but I prefer it represented in "real time" if you get what I mean?! A story to follow rather than a refence guide to "refer to page 7 for the gearbox". I rarely go back through older pages of blogs, so unless you've told us you've updated most of us will miss out. Awesome work whatever you decide.

I think there are plenty of cheap piggybacks available (like the ecumaster det 3) esp. if you find one second hand. One big problem with not using a piggy back and just "fudging the fuelling" on the n/a is that you won't be able to adjust the timing correctly and the fuelling would probably be wrong somewhere in the rev range. Not worth the risk.