Claymore

A quick update before the rear anti roll bar. Front anti roll bar drop link replacement: The rubber bushes were looking a bit worse for wear and the amount of corrosion on the screw threads was getting to the point were removal would have been difficult in the future. Soaked in WD-40 to help loosen and reduce friction, the threads were accessible so plan b was to clean up the exposed threads with a die to help removal (thankfully not required). 10mm spanner in the centre attached to the square section and 12mm deep socket to remove the nuts either end. Top

I think most of the possibilities have been covered above, check for leaks, make sure all the electrical connectors are plugged in. The idle control valve setting and throttle stop screw are set at the factory and should not need adjusting. Is the throttle cable too tight / sticking? if you unhook it from the throttle body does the idle change? If you unplug the idle control valve connector when the engine is warm does the idle change?

I'm fine for turbo's thanks Sam, a genuine Tong's hybrid is a very sort after turbo. They'll be queuing up to buy that from you. I'm ok for other parts at the moment I think, got the power steering stuff already. I'll let you know if I think of anything. Yes I know what you mean, I was a bit shocked at how flexible they were whilst doing the rear suspension work with the panhard rod taken off. Pretty basic, old fashioned design really but not exactly a race car to start with. Can't wait to drive it again. 👍

Payment sent, I've covered the postage and paypal fees.

Interesting on the bubbles thing, don't want boiling up in the turbo jacket.

Awesome, looks like the water channels go straight back one either side of the thermostat.

It can be many things, you've posted before about issues with idle speed and also having error codes relating to idle control and MAP sensor. Have these problems been fixed? Have you modified or changed anything recently? Firstly do a diagnostic check to see if there are any codes. Also check the obvious thing like boost pipes and vacuum hoses for damage / leaks / clamp tightness / intercooler damage / blocked air filter. When you say it "runs hotter" do you mean that the coolant temp. gauge moves above half way when driving hard? Also if you take the car for a drive early in the mor

Cool Cool, I've contacted admin about the PM not working. I can also PM some people but not others, weird. I too have heard of people re wiring but I don't fancy cutting the loom unless I have to, or finding the glanza loom plug and pigtail to wire it.

Thanks Sam, PM me with photos and price please if you want to sell one of the spares, I've tried to PM you in the past but it doesn't work. Maybe you have that setting turned off?

I'm still having no luck finding an early style 4efte thermostat housing (the one with two separate temp. sensors) for my 4efe + t build. Plan B is to possibly modify an existing 4efe unit by drilling and tapping to get the required feed and return for the turbo. Looking at an existing 4efe unit there appears to be the "sites" for this drilling to occur but I hope some one can confirm (with photos) where they join to inside the housing. Any help appreciated, photos, descriptions etc. or if anyone has an fte item for sale that would make my life a lot easier! Lol 😆

Whiteline adjustable panhard rod fitment. Since lowering the car (admittedly only 40mm all round) it's well known that the standard length panhard rod is only really suitable for stock ride height or it will push the rear beam out to one side as it is lowered to its new ride height. First I supported the rear of the car safely at ride height, removed the wheels for access, then removed the drivers side nut and bolt. Then I dropped the right hand end of the rod out of its mounting channel. Cleaned out the surface rust from the channel and treated with Hydrate 80. Secondly,

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That's the stuff I Pm'd you about, the 3 piston guy is also selling a block and no crank. Wonder what happened to that engine. All seem pretty pricey but rarity means people take the piss with prices. Might be worth searching for "Sera / Paseo breaking". Engines probably gone already though. It seems that as times are getting harder more people are selling up their hoarded goodies they're not using. So you never know what might turn up in the future.

Fuel tanks should be able to breath in and out, or vacuum is created when fuel is used or temperature decreases and as temp. increases pressure builds up in the tank. Are you sure its vacuum and not pressure? I know the systems are slightly different but I have attached a diagram detailing the corolla 92-97 4efe setup. Might be of some help to get the brain thinking or following hoses around the engine bay. The TVV valve on the corolla (and starlet) is a coolant temperature dependant open / close valve situated on the thermostat housing. Is this replaced with a solenoid on the 4

Excellent work, great write up too. 👍

Thanks James, I have been impressed with your build thread also, great level of detail and well written.

4efe Coil replacement: Whilst replacing the previous components I notice the coil contact was on the rusty side so decided to replace it. With the dizzy cap off the rusty terminal was obvious, not much clean metal to make contact with the cap contact. Then the dust / protective shield can be removed (yes, the one with don't remove moulded onto it!) by stretching the sides out, off the clips on the coil. Then you can access the 2 x terminals underneath to remove the nuts and release the connected wires. This only leaves the 4 x screws on the top of the coil to remove. The coil is seal

Thanks mate.

There is some pretty deep scoring on one of the no.1 cam journals though. Might clean up might not.

Speaking of overpriced rocking horse sh!t https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Genuine-95-99-Toyota-Cynos-Paseo-L50-1-5L-5E-FHE-Engine-Camshaft-Cam/124247518298?hash=item1cedbaac5a%3Ag%3Ay84AAOSw1tVfANXb&LH_ItemCondition=4 Not checked the part numbers out No connection etc... Might be of interest to someone.

Distributor cap and rotor arm replacement: Carrying on the theme from last time I decided the dizzy cap and rotor arm needed replacing, bought an Intermotor cap and a Beru rotor arm. Removed old cap with leads still attached by unscrewing the 3 x fixing screws. Old cap was showing signs of spark erosion and corrosion on the terminals. Plenty of white crusty build up. Also some rust dust which I will come to later. Removed the old rotor arm by pulling out, away from engine (was very stiff to remove). Fitted the replacement rotor and noticed straight away that it sat closer

Welcome to the forum, don't forget to start a build thread. https://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/70-ep91-progress-blogs/

Really impressed mate, great design and fabrication work. Even anodised your own parts. Top work

Spark plug change. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srafacg4tSU Bought some NGK BKR5EYA plugs as these are the standard plug specified for the N/A Starlet. Checked the hole for debris before removing the old spark plugs one at a time using a 16mm magnetic spark plug socket. They felt pretty sticky but thankfully came out without issue. WD40 can help but I was ok without. Greeted by the the wrong spark plug! It had BCPR6ES plugs in it for some unknown reason. Not only the wrong heat range but the height of the plug from the sealing washer upwards was lo

I've made a rubbing of a standard 4efte exhaust manifold flange which should help. PM me your postal address (If you can, sometimes new accounts don't have the privilege) I can't PM you. Or post up an email address and we'll sort it out that way.